OK guys another day another question. So say you take 28 gauge and make a coil that comes out to let's say 1.5 ohms. Now you take 24 gauge and wrap it around the same size drill bit and make it come out to 1.5 ohms. Explain the differences in the
vape if any
Good question, LOL. I use 27 gauge Kanthal for all my coils these days. I like the fact that it's thick wire which is physically stable and I can beat on the coil without pushing it out of shape like when I replace the cotton after dry burning the coil or take out the SS wick to clean it and then put it back in the same coil. It also takes a lot of heat energy without melting. I only rebuild RBAs and RDAs I use on mechanical mods, so if you're using clearos that's a whole other ballgame and if you're using regulated mods that's even worse unless they're high power mods like DNA20's and up. The basics are the same, but you won't have the ability to put the amount of power (watts) into it that you can with mech mods and rebuildable attys.
I run Genesis attys at about 0.6 ohms (avg ~21 watts), drippers at about 0.5 ohms (avg ~25 watts) and a Kayfun at around 0.9 ohms (avg ~15 watts) 'cause they just work better at less power
. I tried the Genny with thinner wire and it didn't work
for me. Some people appreciate Gennys at lower power, but not many. I suspect I could use 24 gauge wire easily with that. I also think I could use 24 gauge wire in my Trident dripper just fine. I would not try it in a Kayfun type though because I know it would not work well.
It wouldn't work well because I couldn't put enough power into it to get the coil to heat up hot enough, fast enough for a good vape. The air flow is not fast enough either and neither is the standard juice wicking ability to support it, unless I would open up the juice channels (which I have done
). Thicker wire just needs more power, or watts, to make it vape right. In a device that can't take that power, it's just a waste IMO.
