Have you seen Sun Vaporer's test results report on some of the bad 510 attys?
Post #214
I have, very good report...and still nothing has been done. I am disabled with a lot of time on my hands and I have done a LOT of reading in this forum, patents and other sites relevant to the workings of each component. I have also taken quite a few apart to investigate the causes of failure which lead to this post. Thanks
There are different 510 atomizers. Some work very well in the beginning and lose effectiveness very quickly. They have been branded "knockoffs" but they work well on high voltage mods. They have a round washer you can see inside the atomizer.
If you do not have a high voltage mod, you want a "genuine" joye atomizer. The genuine joye atomizers do not have a washer. They have mesh material. When I first got into the business, I received a bunch of kits with the crappy atomizers so I let them go for $30 free shipping just to get rid of them. Now I only carry the genuine atomizers so newbies don't get stuck with crap.
On another note: I have went through 15 atomizers since November 2009. Some would not work at all and they were completely dead. Most lost lots of performance. BUT recently I went through each one of them and resurrected every one of them! Most likely your atomizer is flooded and adding juice to try to get it to vape will do no good. You have to blow them out and do a "dry burn" before dripping on the wick to bring it back to life. Every single one of my atomizers works. Even the ones that I thought were completely dead. Even one I thought was D.O.A. Sometimes the connection isn't proper. Dirty threads or bad batteries can make you thing you have a bad atomizer also.
The genuine atomizers last longer and are more powerful than any other on 3.7 volts (the regular and mega batteries or 3.7 mods) any other atomizer would work better on a higher voltage mod.
I might just purposely flood an atomizer and make a resurrection video soon so people do not have to keep buying atomizers. With a little tlc and and a few minutes time, you can bring those back to life.
I am aware of the knock-offs and I have none. Most of the ones I have I bought before they existed. All of them I have bought from 3-4 reputable suppliers here on this forum. Having been a machinist for many years I am very meticulous when it come to keeping things clean and maintained. When I first joined this forum I remember posting about keeping the threads cleaned with alcohol and also helping someone understand that if the atty floods they are basically just boiling juice...not vaporizing it. I use the Mega batts in which I have 10 in rotation, I have a few 3.7v mods and I made a PT that runs at 4.5v, I vape two flavors so 2 attys in rotation basically and one for experimenting with other flavors. The attys that have lasted me months I never did anything besides a weekly routine of warming them and filled them with PGA, shook it and blew them out, then reprimed them and they were like new again. Getting to that point of finding an atty that will last is the problem.
Thanks Slick
I have the 510 cartomizers and I am really loving them a whole lot. Nice warm vapor, great taste, still get my throat hit and they produce really nice clouds of vapor. I just order me some blank 510 cartomizers from eastmall and with shipping and they are only $1.14 (a lil less) and that, I think is a great deal right there. I would say give them a try, they are super easy to fill with the condom fill method and are no muss no fuss. Cheap enough to toss when they go down in performance too. I hope this helps you out a lil, I know it can get annoying with atomizers and all.
I had thought about it Bella...but still too much conflicting info on them also. I am currently working on an alternative device to make the 510's function again. Thanks
I agree with slickstick, the dry burn technique works quite well and there is a video out on it on the ECF. most people drown there attys and thats ok if your running very hot otherwise it floods them out and kills there performance. Do the dry burn folks, master it and Attys will work for quite some time. Also a PT works well to do the dryburn rather than running a Batt to do it.
We will have to agree to disagree on this one...it may be fine for drippers that use wickless attys, but is suicide for the ones that use cart IMO. I have done experiments with different wick/coil/voltage combination's and found if you get a coil red hot with wick and juice in it, after time you will basically fuse it together into a chunk of carbon. No cleaning short of maybe naphtha (not advisable) is going to get it out then. Having worked with metals my whole life... I understand that heating metal to red hot expands and contracts on cooling loosening the slag/oxidation/scale or whatever is on it...like I said, fine if your dripping with no wick. Although I have found the best way to clean the coil is with phosphoric acid like in coke or pepsi...brings it right back to looking brand new wire. Thanks
I think if they would just do the wicking of the attys properly with the right amount a lot of the problems would go away. I have about 8 attys that I will be converting to a drip/juice feed system instead of wick. Besides the one last night that didn't do anything at all and measured in at 15 ohms, all of them have coils that work fine.
Look...if you buy 2 attys and one doesn't work right or is DOA...that's a 50% failure rate. Two out of a five pack...a 40% failure rate. Ask yourself what is an "acceptable" failure rate? Would you accept that kind of rate on other things you buy?? I wont anymore. If these things were a buck apiece it wouldn't be too bad, but average price is a bit more than that especially by the time you add shipping. also.
