510 center pins

[vaper1960]

For most atties, are the 510 center pins the same? Actually, I asking about rebuildables like RTAs. Same length, diameter, threads, ect? Can you even get replacements? I need some that "protrude" more from the 510 connetor. I know, someone suggested just adding a tiny or-ring but I don't trust that would be strong enough.

 

[englishmick]

For most atties, are the 510 center pins the same? Actually, I asking about rebuildables like RTAs. Same length, diameter, threads, ect? Can you even get replacements? I need some that "protrude" more from the 510 connetor. I know, someone suggested just adding a tiny or-ring but I don't trust that would be strong enough.

I had some KFL tanks with a pin that was flush with the negative ring and I wanted to use them on a mech. I fixed it by shortening the negative ring. I used a diamond grit knife sharpening stone. Just take the pin out and rub the tank on the stone until you've taken enough off so the positive pin sticks out. It takes a while, you have to keep putting it back together to see if you're there. It would go quicker with a Dremel but it would be easy to take too much off.

I tried orings but they never held it reliably in place.

 

[evan le'garde]

All i know is if i searched places like Ebay hard enough i'd find an item like this eventually. Like Nylon screws for my K4 airflow. Not an easy item to find but eventually found some for like a penny each. If i measured my contact screw and searched for one a mil longer i know for a fact i'd find one on Ebay because i wouldn't stop until i did. Even if it meant going to Aliexpress.

 

[vaper1960]

Odd thing is the RTAs work on one mod but not the other (the one that has a screen and shows resistance) so I can still use them but can't verify resistance of the coils. Someone else suggested adding a "heatsink" but how do I know if that will help (and which on to choose)? Shortening the outer (negative) part of the 510 won't help... the tank bottoms out anyway. I even considered fabricating a spacer but could be very risky of having a short.

 

[evan le'garde]

Shortening the outer (negative) part of the 510 won't help... the tank bottoms out anyway.

I thought the same thing.

I remember back when i got my first K4 the pin wouldn't reach the Provari 2.5 contact pin with the provari ring in between. I just used a tiny o ring i found on the screw driver that came in the Kayfun box (just placed it round the pin and screwed it back in). I think i still use it too.

 

[TrollDragon]

Most 510 pins are different, they usually come in 2.5mm or 3mm threading but the length, head diameter and shoulder height vary drastically. Fasttech used to have a great assortment of 510 pins and you can always put one in a drill and reduce the size of the head with a file if it is too big. I do that with generic SS pan head screws from eBay, bought them in 2.5mm and 3mm threading 20mm long. I turn the heads down with a file and cut them off to the right length.

If your 510 pin sits inside a cupped peak washer. The easiest fix is to make a o-ring out of 26ga or 24ga wire that fits around the shaft of the 510 screw. That will keep the screw from going in too far and doesn't compress like a rubber o-ring would. The cupped insulator will keep it from shorting out against the outer threads.

I wouldn't do it if the insulator is not cupped and you are using it on a mech, regulated mods have short protection so it's not an issue with them.

 

[vaper1960]

TrollDragon, I totally considered that! Was a little afraid if something went wrong, but yes, it's a regulated/protected mod. I have some 26 ga wire.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

If a mod needs an atty with a protruding 510 pin, there is an easy solution that not everyone will like. Get a heat sink with an adjustable 510 screw.
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1923808

I'm not a squonker but I bought a squonk mod because it was too good a deal to pass up. I use use it as a regular mod. But it has a 510 that is deeper than any mod I have and none of my atties have protruding positive pins. This heat sink above is the answer to that problem for me.

But it's only 22mm so if you have anything wider than that, well, You're SOL unless you don't mind how it looks.

You could also buy a new 510 for your mod and solder that in. One that isn't so deep.

 

[Oregon Linda]

If a mod needs an atty with a protruding 510 pin, there is an easy solution that not everyone will like. Get a heat sink with an adjustable 510 screw.
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1923808

I'm not a squonker but I bought a squonk mod because it was too good a deal to pass up. I use use it as a regular mod. But it has a 510 that is deeper than any mod I have and none of my atties have protruding positive pins. This heat sink above is the answer to that problem for me.

But it's only 22mm so if you have anything wider than that, well, You're SOL unless you don't mind how it looks.

You could also buy a new 510 for your mod and solder that in. One that isn't so deep.

Fasttech has 25mm heat sinks now also:
https://www.fasttech.com/product/4895708

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

Fasttech has 25mm heat sinks now also:
https://www.fasttech.com/product/4895708

Well I'll be damned. I never looked because I don't use anything over 22mm. I do have some of the 19mm heat sinks though.

 

[englishmick]

Odd thing is the RTAs work on one mod but not the other (the one that has a screen and shows resistance) so I can still use them but can't verify resistance of the coils. Someone else suggested adding a "heatsink" but how do I know if that will help (and which on to choose)? Shortening the outer (negative) part of the 510 won't help... the tank bottoms out anyway. I even considered fabricating a spacer but could be very risky of having a short.

OK. I thought you were trying to get the pin to protrude for a different reason. You just want it longer.

I was trying to do that once and I scoured the internet. I found one place that sold Peek tubing in various sizes. Never followed up on it and I didn't save the link. If you could get it in the right size that might make a good spacer.

 

[vaper1960]

UncleJunkle, that is perfect. The mod is 22 mm (the RTAs are 24mm but I don't care about overhang... just want them to work) Actually, once I build them (and check resistance) I tend to use them on my other mod that is 24mm. I'll order two.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

UncleJunkle, that is perfect. The mod is 22 mm (the RTAs are 24mm but I don't care about overhang... just want them to work) Actually, once I build them (and check resistance) I tend to use them on my other mod that is 24mm. I'll order two.

The thing I like about he Kepler version is that both the atty side and mod side are adjustable (screws) and the overall quality of it is very, very good. I never owned any others but have read reviews of shoddy manufacturing, so I stick to the Keplers.

 

[vaper1960]

Both sides adjustable... you are my hero!

 

[TrollDragon]

I didn't suggest those as I didn't think anyone still used them...

 

[Oregon Linda]

I didn't suggest those as I didn't think anyone still used them...

I use them on all my mods to save their 510 threads.

 

[vaper1960]

I use them on all my mods to save their 510 threads.

That's a very good idea! Might just order several.

 

[Oregon Linda]

That's a very good idea! Might just order several.

I have a lifetime supply. If one gets sloppy, I toss it and put a new one on. They're cheap and it's good insurance.