510 Connector on Kangxin Vaporflask v3

[tempest.nano]

Forgive posting this in the new members forum. I will move this to the relevant thread once I reach the minimum post count.

The brass 510 connector on my VF3 has become loose, so it wobbles a bit when my kayfun v4 is attached. I have disassembled it, and the 510 appeared to only be held in place by some sort of epoxy. Can anyone recommend a fix or a replacement 510 that uses a better method of attaching (locking ring)? I would just glue it back, but I figure it would break loose again the next time I drop it.

 

[tempest.nano]

Follow up question: Are most 510's just held in place by epoxy?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

You mean the whole 510 or the centre pin screw? If its the whole thing, replacement isn't straightforward. There is a whole thread on these units in the temperature control sub-form. Its a long one but a lot of useful info!

Welcome to ECF. Its a great place to be!

 

[tempest.nano]

I do mean the whole 510. I have scoured that thread and found mention of the problem, but no real solution. It looks like it would be fairly easy to replace with just a bit of soldering, but finding one that will fit is the trick.

 

[nilly]

This is kind of old now and you might have solved it allready, but a tip for you or anyone doing this, i changed my 510, to a fat daddy v3 shorty, i used the 22mm washer on top, wich sits on top of the kangxin v3 aluminum, gives some height to attys but i think it looks great.

For the dismantling of the old glued copper connector, first desolder the ground wire, its soldered thru a hole, i melted the solder and poked it out thru from the inside of the 510. and to remove the 510 connector from the top plate, i mounted the top plate in a vice and heated the copper and the glue with a torch while pressing the connector out with a plyer. easy job and resulted in almost no damage to the top plate, i have seen others that have removed the copper 510 by cutting and bending and it looks horribly. torching and pressing it out is the way to go..

 

[tempest.nano]

This is kind of old now and you might have solved it allready, but a tip for you or anyone doing this, i changed my 510, to a fat daddy v3 shorty, i used the 22mm washer on top, wich sits on top of the kangxin v3 aluminum, gives some height to attys but i think it looks great.

For the dismantling of the old glued copper connector, first desolder the ground wire, its soldered thru a hole, i melted the solder and poked it out thru from the inside of the 510. and to remove the 510 connector from the top plate, i mounted the top plate in a vice and heated the copper and the glue with a torch while pressing the connector out with a plyer. easy job and resulted in almost no damage to the top plate, i have seen others that have removed the copper 510 by cutting and bending and it looks horribly. torching and pressing it out it the way to go..

Thanks ever so much! I had replaced the 510 on my wife's Waidea flask, but I had figured the Kangxin was unserviceable. It never occurred to me to use the washer for some reason.

Currently my 510 is held in place with two-part epoxy, but next time it is dropped, it will surely break loose again. I will try to document the process as I do so.

Would you mind posting a photo of your flask with the FDV installed?

 

[nilly]

Sure, dont mind that top screw sticking out a bit, heads where nearly rounded when i got them :/, gonna be messy getting em out when i get some replacement screws.
Noticed the FD dont sit straight, easy fix since its not glued now much easier to see once photographed, strange, now it kinda bothers me.

 

[tempest.nano]

Fantastic!
One final question: The 510 is off center due to a mismatch in the diameters of the hole in the Vaporflask top and the 510 washer?
It looks great, much more solid than putting the 510 in without the washer and having it only held in place by about a 1mm wide ring of aluminum.

 

[nilly]

The connector has some play in all direction, so its just a matter of aligning it and tighting it down, no problems getting it flush, i just didnt notice that it had some overhang, in reality it doesnt show as much as in the pictures above. And btw this is my first Fat daddy's connector and i just have to mention what awesome quality it is, really a winner, my VF works better in temp control with the FD connector than the old copper, but mine had a really loose centerpin that might have messed up the connection to attys.

 

[tempest.nano]

Just to complete this thread, I wound up installing the 510 from my wife's Waidea Vapor Flask, and it looks great. The fit is perfect. It is much more stable than the adjustable pin one that came in the Waidea, and since it uses a locking nut it is now rock solid. I also included a grounding ring, I forget what they are called.

Thanks!

 

[Night Knight]

even though I'm not sure what u r talking about,but I'm sure u r awesome.lol

 

[nilly]

even though I'm not sure what u r talking about,but I'm sure u r awesome.lol

And i tought a picture was worth more than a thousand words, and theres actually three pics right above

 

[larspMuc]

Hi nilly,
thanks for the photos, great work. I've been playing with the idea to replace the 510 on my VF3 clone as well, now I know it's worth it. Another reason to open up the box is that one battery connector appears to have been sheered of

 

[nilly]

Hi nilly,
thanks for the photos, great work. I've been playing with the idea to replace the 510 on my VF3 clone as well, now I know it's worth it. Another reason to open up the box is that one battery connector appears to have been sheered of

DO IT! i love my VF clone now, sure it was pretty great before the FD connector also, but changing attys is a breeze now without the need to adjust the centerpin, and i regularly use about 5 attys thru out the day so it indeed was a hassle before.

And some issues i had with the fire button not firing all the time seems to have cleared up aswell, might have been bad connection on the old connector.

 

[tempest.nano]

Hi nilly,
thanks for the photos, great work. I've been playing with the idea to replace the 510 on my VF3 clone as well, now I know it's worth it. Another reason to open up the box is that one battery connector appears to have been sheered of

The battery connectors on the Kangxin model are just screws with wires soldered onto the end of. I mistook those screws to be adjustable for fitting the battery, and screwing/unscrewing them rips the wires off the top of the screw. It is a terrible design.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

I dunno that looks kinda weird to be honest. That FDV 22 mm just looks out of place sitting on top of the mod with the single air slot underneath it. I guess it's Ten times better than the stock 510 though.

 

[nilly]

I dunno that looks kinda weird to be honest. That FDV 22 mm just looks out of place sitting on top of the mod with the single air slot underneath it. I guess it's Ten times better than the stock 510 though.

Yeah it wont win any beauty contests, but once you have your RDA or similar on top you wont notice it, i dont mind it at all it looks great with RDA on top.

 

[nilly]

Cant seem to edit my post above anymore?, just wanted to point out that with the 22mm washer the risk of shorting the battery terminal under the 510 is minimal, heard of this happening for others, it was one of my concearns. Either way, soon this sucker is going on the shelf in favour for the Snowwolf 200

 

[roxynoodle]

I just got one of the Kangxin flasks and my 510 began acting up right away from tiny metal shavings. Going to order the fdv one right away and replace it.

 

[Hoopie]

My Kangxin VF V3 clone top cap and 510 became loose. May look at changing the 510 now after reading this thread. Anyone know what tool to use to loosen/tighten the 4 top cap screws? Better yet, where to just get phillips-head replacements?