510 (female) connections = planned obsolescence!

[Kanger Banger]

Why are they all made from soft brass? Even the silver colored ones are just plated/painted over brass and even being overly gentle and careful, they're designed to strip and wear out.

Where can I get one made from stainless, or at least steel? I'm talking about the threaded portion. The positive anode being brass is fine by me.

People are sticking aluminum foil and other things in there to take up the slack, but these are temporary fixes that won't be durable. Using wood or paper only inhibits the conductivity of its intended purpose.

I'm guessing the threads on my SubTank Plus portion (male threads) are actually stainless, which is a good thing, but the (female) threads in the KBOX are losing their silver color, leaving metal shavings on the tank's threads, and slowly turning brass in color.

I properly lubricate these threads, and I'm extremely gentle as I gingerly thread the tank on (NEVER cross-threading), but I can feel it getting looser as the days go by (only 6 days old), and can visually see the slow change in color inside, from silver to brass.

I'm tempted to solder some jumper-cables to my tank, and leave the box-mod in my pocket. I want to try to make my own female connector from some grade-8 nut, then epoxy a center-pin in there, then hardwire it to the KBOX, after ripping out its brass 510. Maybe use an NL-4 Neutrik™ connector instead. This area needs improvement!

 

[Bunnykiller]

the SVD has SS base and threads.... still as tight as the day I recieved it from Fasttech... ( almost 2 yrs ago)

oh BTW Fasttech sells SS bases for 510

 

[bussdriver]

That's always a sore point. It's easy to machine brass or copper, or for that matter any soft metal. They do seem to be the best in conductivity, at least compared to stainless. But over time they wear out.

One way is to get one of those cheap airflow controllers, screw it into your mod, and leave it there. If/when the threads on it wear out, just get another. That way your tank threads don't mess up your good mod threads. Adds a little length and changes the look, but at least it works.

You can also find replacement connectors of stainless steel at several online stores. That will require a little work on your mod though.

 

[Kanger Banger]

Thanks for the tips! I'll check them out.

 

[Kanger Banger]

the SVD has SS base and threads....

Is that an Innokin thing? Is Innokin a high quality brand that will use SS threads, both on the female and male pieces? If so, I've been considering the iTaste 134 - if it's going to have SS threading for its female 510, I'm sold.

 

[Bunnykiller]

I prefer the SVD ( by Itaste)... I have 2 of them, 1 is nearly 2 years old and the other a few months both work flawlessly... and they take a fair amount of abuse, both have been dropped several times and still work. I had 2 Vamo5's but both died in a couple of months from falls ( 30" or so) and the threads wore out on the first one in several weeks... I was going to get the 20W SVD but I rarely go above 13W anyway so I stayed with the Original SVD (15W)

Fasttech has the SVD for about 35ish$ ( get the one that has "authentic" in the description) I think the "non authentic" are basically ones that didnt meet quality control and wouldnt be sold by Itaste proper...

 

[jambi]

...This area needs improvement!

Totally agree. Unfortunately, my mechanic friend informs that the way we're using our threaded 510's, no material is going to hold up indefinitely. Threaded connections like our 510's aren't really designed to be screwed/unscrewed several times a day as we tend to do.

What we really need is for threaded connectors to be phased out in favor of "push-turn-lock" designs. Next time you're at Starbucks, watch how they attach/detach the coffee receivers to the espresso machine. That type of connection is designed to withstand hundreds of uses a day, and that's what we need.

Interestingly, same friend also says that while material does play a role, he'd trade poor quality machining for a softer metal like brass any day. Apparently, bad machining leaves tiny nicks, burrs, and other imperfections that drastically increase wear on both parts. If metal has to rub on metal, everything needs to be as smooth as possible.

I can confirm the SVD's 510 connection is high quality; mine has held up to medium heavy use for 9 months, though I don't use it much any more, except as a build platform. Actually, it was the only mod I had that would securely hold a really poor quality Kayfun clone with threads that were junk from day one (since retired due to said threads wearing down to nothing). But the threads on my SVD are definitely brass (or brass colored).

(Brass) threads on my Istick 20 seem to be holding up well at 6 months; still nice and smooth, no signs of wear. Not so with the (not brass) threads on my IPV 3. After 4 months, they're pretty much gone. I run it with a 510/510 adapter now, and consider that adapter to be part of the device (never remove it). All is well. 510 adapter is a few bucks...just use them on all your mods and screw with impunity.

*Edit: Looking closer at the Istick 20, maybe the threads aren't brass, or maybe the chrome plating just hasn't worn off enough yet to see brass.

 

[stvn77]

Fat Daddy Vapes 510 Connector V4 | Sun-Vapers.com

Vulcan Heat Sink by VLS | Sun-Vapers.com

i whish have seen the vulcan heat sink before to save my mods

 

[six]

All new REOs come with a Stainless Steel, gasgetless, adjustable 510 connection.

 

[beckdg]

All old REOs can be upgraded to a Stainless Steel, gasgetless, adjustable 510 connection.

Tapatyped

 

[ian-field]

Thanks for the tips! I'll check them out.

The ego threads are slightly more robust.

I started off with 510 Vapourlites cigarett-alikes. Originally I built my DIY battery mods with 510 threads, but with the impending demise of 510, I started building battery mods with ego threads.

The "proper job" clearomiser I ended up with is the Vivi-Nova V2, which is 510 - it also fits the ego battery mods I started building.

Going the other way round - most ego tanks won't fit a 510 battery.

 

[3mg Meniere]

Several months ago, I was having problems. I switched to using two mods, and leave the tank on from full to empty. Just switch between the two devices. Seems to work for me, saving threads. I also have a 510 to ego/510 adapter on my Vamo, built up with duck tape so there is no gap. Multiple changes of tanks during a day is the problem. I am expecting another mech in a week. More expensive in the short run (although most of my stuff is FT, but over the long term, saves threads.

 

[bones1274]

Why are they all made from brass? For the same reason packs of hot dogs and packs of hot dog buns have different numbers in them. So that you have to spend more money buying more down the road.

 

[crxess]

Actually - Proper use of a Material = longevity.
I have Brass 510 Mods over a year old with NO slop or change in fitment.

 

[93gc40]

I see mostly stainless threadings. Sure there is some brass and copper, but mostly stainless. For the most part people use the softer brass and copper for improved conductivity and looks. You know you don't have to tighten the 510 any more than required to make positive contact with the contact points. So unless you are cross threading stuff or letting it get dirty, you shouldn't be stripping things.

 

[93gc40]

Ego to 510 battery adapter $1.09 510 to eGo Adapter Convertor for E-Cigarette at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[ian-field]

Why are they all made from brass? For the same reason packs of hot dogs and packs of hot dog buns have different numbers in them. So that you have to spend more money buying more down the road.

Probably because stainless-steel work hardens - brass is cheaper to work in the machine shop.

 

[Zurd]

Why are they all made from soft brass? Even the silver colored ones are just plated/painted over brass and even being overly gentle and careful, they're designed to strip and wear out.

You bring up some pretty good point. In my experience though, I've been vaping for 5 years and never had a 510 connection that I needed to replace. However, I never screw/unscrew my atomizer. It just stay there on my vaporizer. If you think the threading is a problem, I'd suggest buying more vaporizers so you will not have to unscrew your atomizer again

 

[r77r7r]

*Edit: Looking closer at the Istick 20, maybe the threads aren't brass, or maybe the chrome plating just hasn't worn off enough yet to see brass.

I've heard it's pot metal so you might not see the change. Mine were terrible and very loose from the start.
I've Joye egos go over 2 yrs daily use with next to zero wear.
Have to admit, They fixed the Stick quickly with the 30. Much faster then Innokins fixes on the MVP and VV3's I think.

 

[Completely Average]

I don't think the problem is as much the threading or material as it is the user overtightening their atty. These things only need to be tightened just enough to be snug, not so much that they require force to screw on or loosen. I use an old 30W box mod with a brass 510 connector every day. In fact it's all I've used for about a year now, and the threads still look and work like new. I've seen some people remove their attys and it looks like they're trying to take lug nuts off a car tire.

Remember, just tight enough to be snug and not back out on it's own. That is ALL you need. Any tighter and you're just damaging the threads for no reason.