9v MV box and chewing gum tin battery fitment

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kemuri

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wuf7gm.jpg


Just wanted to show how near-perfect the 9v box sold by MV is for an 18500 batt. The 9v box is just slightly fatter than a 2AA box.

I'm beginning to suspect the ultrafire blue 18500 (both the older stock with the positive button I got from MV about 6 months ago) and the new no-button 18500 (same source) might be very very good batts, and hope ultrafire doesn't change anything in their production. Keep the mislabeling to 18490 if that helps as the secret ingredient.

I only say near-perfect re the 9v box because you'll have to rig standard terminals and get rid of the 9v terminals to fit cylindral batts, and you might have to sand down either the body or the lid just a little to have the lid snap on tightly due to the 18000 family's diameter.

The Altoid gum tin box is to show the body itself and battery fitment since the gum may not be readily available everywhere, unlike the ubiquitous Altoid mints. If you happen upon the gum, grab it. You'll find it really useful. And you'll have fresh breath too.

The gum tin box holds a pair of protected 123A's easily, and though not shown, it holds an 18650 easily as well. The gum tin has a convex floor so flatten it out a bit.

I find I'm vaping on a BE112 (penstyle) using the 18500 more than I do on a 4.2 or 5v or 6v nicobox these days. The vape is nice and warm, the way penstyle aficionados tend to like 'em, and is close enough to a 5v to be satisfying. Wish another penstyle enthusiast would try a 18500 setup and confirm. Actually I find the blue ultrafire 18500 is better (as in stronger) than the grey ultrafire 18650 for a BE112 setup. Anyway, I'm happy for the discovery, deluded or not.
 
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kemuri

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Almost looks like you could fit a usb charger in there...

Maybe someone can try that. I goofed on that pix since my original intent was to show a 3ml bottle in the 9v box's "channel" where the momentary switch is, but I forgot it during the excitement of a suddenly dying camera battery. Anyway, a 3ml bottle will fit for someone wanting to make a juicer.
 

cliff

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Didn't really know where else to put this-being a rc modeler from way back I never liked epoxy much so I just use cynoacyrlic(superglue)and baking soda to save on weight, sets up like concrete.I also use a sharpened chopstick(i know everyone has these) to dab the glue and put where I want then dust it with the soda.It's just my 2 cents:D
 

kemuri

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I just use cynoacyrlic(superglue)and baking soda to save on weight, sets up like concrete.I also use a sharpened chopstick(i know everyone has these) to dab the glue and put where I want then dust it with the soda.It's just my 2 cents:D

Damn, another use for baking soda.:thumbs: Cook, clean, scrub, get rid of BO, brush teeth, explode ants, make life miserable for roaches......
Seriously, I'll have it give it a try next time gluing some stuff. Does the baking soda act chemically with the superglue or it adds grit (like sand) to the glue I wonder.

I've found the clearer 2 part epoxies after a while will soften with heat and ejuice, but the JB weld seems to hold up pretty well, though I will run an atty so hard the penstyle tube is literally too hot to touch once in a while.

Nice tuppence.
 
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bsoplinger

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Does the baking soda act chemically with the superglue or it adds grit (like sand) to the glue I wonder.
As far as I can tell whenever I've done this with models it simply adds grit. I'd think the superfine style salt would work exactly the same since its ground as finely as the particles of baking soda, or talcum powder.

If you're using alot work somewhere with ventilation as the fumes will get quite strong from the CA curing since there's so much of it.
 
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