a little help with rebuilding RBA

[rvwj]

hello my fellow vapers!
today I will be asking a some inexperienced questions that I have been troubling for the past few days.

so basically my current gear is a
eleaf 30w mod & a subtank mini.

alright. I'm trying to build a RBA instead of using the OCC to create bigger clouds.
so I would like to hear your thoughts about this,
I use the two stock 1.2 ohm coils,
dual coil it into the RBA. hence, it should read about 0.6 ohms.
read some online about dual coils giving you bigger clouds but I'm not sure about it.
I do not wish to short circuit or do what ever that I'm unsure of that'll spoil/ harm my gear... I'm so into vaping that I'm that cautious.
most importantly i do wish that I could move away from analogs.

do give me your humble opinion on this, or even a better solution!!
that'll be great...

vape out,
reus.

 

[State O' Flux]

hello my fellow vapers!
today I will be asking a some inexperienced questions that I have been troubling for the past few days.

so basically my current gear is a
eleaf 30w mod & a subtank mini.

alright. I'm trying to build a RBA instead of using the OCC to create bigger clouds.
so I would like to hear your thoughts about this,
I use the two stock 1.2 ohm coils,
dual coil it into the RBA. hence, it should read about 0.6 ohms.
read some online about dual coils giving you bigger clouds but I'm not sure about it.
I do not wish to short circuit or do what ever that I'm unsure of that'll spoil/ harm my gear... I'm so into vaping that I'm that cautious.
most importantly i do wish that I could move away from analogs.

do give me your humble opinion on this, or even a better solution!!
that'll be great...

vape out,
reus.

"Clouds"... or rather vapor volume/density, is all about coil net surface area... power sufficient to heat that surface area to a minimum temperature, and an air flow capability that matches your draw potential.

You're limited to 30 watts, and an internal resistance limiter. There's no getting around that... so you build to the power delivery parameters of your equipment.

At your wattage/resistance limit... the coil building goal is to obtain the maximum surface area that your available wattage will support at temperature 'X' (although a minimum temperature value is required, beyond that is personal preference - at least until you can't take the heat), with a minimum lag time and power lost to coil legs.

30 watts is fine for 0.6Ω net, dual parallel resistance... if the wire gauge is 27 or thinner. With 27 gauge, your "heat flux" (coil radiant heat value, measured in milliwatts per millimeter of coil surface area, squared ) is 157 mW/mm²... which is a little on the cool side, not a major vapor density producer, but OK.

With a 30 watt limit, thicker wire than 27 (for dual parallel builds) is, for most folks, too cold. With 26 gauge your heat flux is a chilly 111 mW/mm².

As the wire gets thinner at the same net resistance, the heat flux goes up...

28 gauge = 222 mW/mm². Low 200s is mildly warm, but a popular range.
29 gauge = 314 mW/mm². Low 300s is warmer still... right for many, but too warm for some.
30 gauge = 445 mW/mm². Above 375 or so (IMO), things get flat out hot. Reducing input wattage to 22w reduces temp to a median warm temp of 326 mW/mm².

To learn more about heat flux, and other values used in the "Steam Engine" coil modeling calculator, click the sigline link below.

 

[WonderDude32]

Gee, I couldn't have said it better. SOF, do have a degree from Cal Tech or MIT?

 

[MattyTny]

Great post above.

I use 27 gauge kanthl dual coils in an Aqua2 primarily on the Sigelei mini 30 and it performs great. The build comes out to about 0.8ohms.