About Low Resistance and Specific batteries

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Zen~

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At the risk of nit-picking, your chart only accounts for having a single battery on hand. Mine accounts for two, which is definitely a good idea (and probably necessary for many users). In order to keep two batteries on hand, you'd need to buy eight egos per year for a total of $120/year (using your price). You'd only need four IMR cells for a total of $28/year.

Yes it's nitpicking, but why not... right? This is just an illustration anyway.

OK... having a spare battery on hand means exactly that... A spare battery... not buying two everytime you need one. The ego kit and the roughstack each come with two batteries, and the need to buy doubles to insure having a spare is pretty silly... Throw one (the spare) in a box and still buy 4 per year.

Based on REALLY having a spare on hand would add 15 bucks to the life of the eGo calculations and 6 bucks to the price of the Roughstack. So, over 4 years the ego will cost an additional $3.75 per year and the roughstack an additional $1.50 per year. which translates to the ego costing 20 cents per day, and the roughstack is about 8.5 cents per day, so now the eGo decision is going to cost an extra 11 1/2 cents per day. So yeah, that's kind of nitpicky.

I think it's probably fair to say that you don't think it's worth paying extra for an eGo, and frankly I have a couple of them, but they are hardly my main vape. I use 14500s and CR123a's in most of my gear. But I DO enjoy a toot on the eGo or a 510 every so often, and I enjoy the heck out of them when I do.

And we can compare costs ad nauseum, but at the end of the day, value is in the hands of the beholder. If you consider "worth" to be something that can only be measured in monetary terms, then that's cool... your motivation is what it is. But just as there are hundreds of mods and variants of e-cigs out there, the same can be said for many things. Some people enjoy a Mercedes SLK, while others purchase a Hyundai Sonata... I'm sure there could be many value judgements regarding these choices, but in reality, nobody that drives a Mercedes cares that the Hyundai costs less per mile to own, and then when you think about it, comparing a Mod to a Chinese e-cig is like comparing a Formula 1 race car to a commercially available automobile... In a race, the production auto doesn't stand a chance, because it will blow-up before reaching the finish line.

I suppose my point, which I made several posts ago, Don't panic just because you've made the choice for higher performance. Just enjoy vaping whatever you want to vape and don't sweat the rest...

In the final analysis, ALL choices are within pennies a day of each other... lets not get all bent over a few cents... the PERFORMANCE is what counts, and it's worth it to spend whatever you so choose to not suffer through a poorly performing e-cig out of fear of it failing... they will ALL fail eventually.

Can we be done with the charts now?
 

JonnyVapΣ

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I suddenly wanna race your Ridgeline with my Sierra.
Ya....totally irrelevant here.
I was gonna start saying relevant things but suddenly, just as I was about to start typing, the brain said; no, race Zen's shiny new Ridgeline.
Let's do this.
Time to make the donuts.


Does solder affect cognitive thinking? I've been soldering for the past 4 hours. I think that's what's happening here....
 

DaveP

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You should really try the eGo mega attys if all you want is more vapor and flavor. Check out the eGo specific forum for more details on the.

This thread makes me wonder about the Joye Mega cylinder atty. If you look at the glow, it's wider and bright orange with a short dry burn. The resistance is close to a 2.5 ohm standard atty, though, so current and wattage have to be the same.

I like wattage as a comparison rather than voltage. Wattage is something most people can relate to in terms of incandescent light bulbs. An atty is operating through the same principle.

P=E1 I=E/R

You do have to consider Ego and 510 batts to be 3.2 volts under load, though. I haven't measured the loaded voltage of an LR atty, but the operating theory is that the the mosfet voltage regulator is maintaining the voltage at the 3.2 level throughout the vape and reporting with a flashing LED when the comparator senses a drop between the battery output and the regulated output. So, if you are calculating using Ohm's law, the correct voltage to use is 3.2 to 3.3 volts.
 

markfm

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If it's one of the hard-core LR, the ones that are like 1.5 ohms, you're back to the need-lots-of-current problem.

5/1.5 = 3-1/3 amps needed on the USB to power it. Even the good wall warts that folks recommend are 2A output -- enough to handle a 2.5 ohm cartomizer on a 5V PT, but that's it.

Best case, the PT just doesn't work, nowhere near enough current able to be sourced. Otherwise things quickly go downhill, blown atty or power supply (don't try this on a computer -- use a dedicated PS, a wall wart with enough amps.)

Juice would likely taste bad if you did have a PS with enough power -- that's near 17 watts, probably pretty cruddy (too much heat).
 

Scottitude

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3 batteries and 3 batteries only that are going to push LR atties (to their capability)without damaging the battery...
about any 18650
AW IMR 16340
AW IMR 14500
and that's the cold truth of it...

This information is invaluable and should be a in a sticky somewhere.

ETA:
Somewhere in the general battery/LR atty forums, not necessarily the MadVapes forum.
 
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