adjusting the rm2 centre post?

[SLIPPY_EEL]

ok i had to clean the reo & rm2 lastnight but after re-assembling and test firing the coil the fuse popped

i took the whole thing apart again and found that it was the centre pin on the rm2, seems like that pin is flush with the surrounding neg part

i presumed the pin would just spin out with a little force but it started to deform, its now egg shape so i stopped and installed the cyclone before i made things worse

So whats the deal with the pin??
And the clear stuff between the outer neg- and inner pos+ what is it?? is it just a piece of tubing squeezed in there or a silicone injected or whoot??

i have never taken the rm2 apart and i also dont own a small round file like i think i read somewhere people were suggested to use to undo and lengthen the pos pin



also, if say the pin is stuck and no way to budge it is filing the bottom of the rm2 around the pos+ pin an option??

i'm also thinking that if you unwind the pin & then install, the action of screwing it onto the reo will screw the pin back inside again??

 

[Ian444]

I haven't disassembled an RM2 to know, but this might help

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-full-atomizer-itself-rebuild-pic-heavy.html

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Thanks Ian i shall take a look

just had a rm2 delivered but both the post holes are facing the squonk hole
and i dont feel confident enough after deforming the other rm2 to try take this apart


hmm ive just taken a quick look but neither of my rm2's have a slot on the bottom to unscrew

 

[Ian444]

I have disassembled a Triangle which is what Rob starts with to make an RM2. It looks like the upper positive post, the positive post that holds one end of your coil, is supposed to be tight because it holds the brass disk (located under the ceramic) up, keeping it from shorting out on the metal base of the atty. Then the 510 positive center pin screws into the disk from the bottom. But as I said, I haven't pulled an RM2 apart. I think I read somewhere that Rob fits an extra insulator in there, possibly under the brass disk but thats just a guess. I don't know how Rob gets the holes in the posts for the coil in the correct positions, because when fiddling with Triangle atties, its hit and miss where the holes end up, which is when the posts bottom out. Maybe on the neg post you can file the bottom of the post to trim the position, just a WAG.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

and i wonder if on the new rm2 i can unscrew the post and put something down inside to adjust hole position

you dont think if i file the neg post on bottom of first rm2 it will mess up the thread?

 

[Ian444]

I would wait for further advice from others before proceeding on the new RM2, or pm Rob about it.
On the old RM2, if you use a file on the threads it should be fine, but use a fine-grain file e.g. a jewellers file

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

i got the older rm2 working with a little file

got new firing pin installed but stuck with the fuse mod, now getting .34vd :/ so might put brass back in to get my 0.12 loss back and save this one for

just need to fix this position on the pos+ post hole position, the airhole on this one lines up at coil position without a o-ring, do rm2's leak without one?

I would wait for further advice from others before proceeding on the new RM2, or pm Rob about it.
On the old RM2, if you use a file on the threads it should be fine, but use a fine-grain file e.g. a jewellers file

 

[redeyedancer]

If you want to extend the center post on your rm2 you will need to grab a round file at your local hardware store . My rm2 air hole is at 3 o'clock on one of my mods . There is no way to make a atomizer line up perfect on every mod . Having a gasket in the mod gives you a little play . this is one of the reasons I haven't changed the 510 connection over to a solid gasket system you would have no choice were your atomizer intake hole ended up unless I made the center post adjustable .

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Ok let me start again my old fruit...

the Rm2 i had the positive pin at the 510 connector problem with has now been fixed, this was my older rm2 k

the new Rm2 i got from the postman today:-

the air intake hole on the cap stops in the right place without the o-ring and i was asking if this is ok? or do they likely leak with No o-ring between top cap and the base??

This same Rm2 has a skew-if post hole, meaning the post on the ceramic deck furthest away from the squonk hole has the post hole looking at the squonk hole instead of straight ahead making it really awkward to make a build on it, not what i was expecting tbh with you

just so you know i've enlarged the airhole, filed the ss from the bottom(neg contact area's) and drilled the post holes out(2mm)... i did all this thinking that the post could just be forced around like on the igo-s as i have never looked at the thread about taking the rm2 apart untill today

Also i ordered 2x squonk posts with gaskets and trimming as well as a rebuild kit and only received 2 posts not 3, i did email you

thanks rob

if you like i can post a picture of the Rm2??

If you want to extend the center post on your rm2 you will need to grab a round file at your local hardware store . My rm2 air hole is at 3 o'clock on one of my mods . There is no way to make a atomizer line up perfect on every mod . Having a gasket in the mod gives you a little play . this is one of the reasons I haven't changed the 510 connection over to a solid gasket system you would have no choice were your atomizer intake hole ended up unless I made the center post adjustable .

 

[ltrainer]

RM2 does not leak without the oring under the cap.