Advice for a new mech tube user

[Aaron'sNewNightmare]

Greetings to all,

I'm very soon expecting to recieve a mechanical tube mod and I wanted to be affirmed or corrected on the basic properties of being safe and enjoying the experience. I know that there are topics already covered but I'm more of a personal learner... so please add to what I need to know
1. Ohms law- knowing that I can use any coil at or above .1 but I'm thinking that I'll be happy and try and go .20-above as I'm aware with only a battery to pin as a connection I have to know:
2.what my battery's rated current is...and based off of what ohms my coil is running, the only thing I need to know is that number can't be higher than my amps on the battery.which can be said that any reputable battery can work with any amps, I just have to not use a coil that will be over *advice for a good battery for this*
3.the mech I'm using has a hybrid top...I am currently getting a "purge rda deck" because correct me, but one of the biggest things is making sure that the pin for the positive isn't ginormous or danger flush..
4.im also afraid of the amount of time I can drag on each puff, as I think that too long a puff can be dangerous if the battery heats up.

If anything else or corrected, I appreciate the help guys

Aaron.

 

[ENAUD]

Here's a little reading for you:
(8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum


(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[stols001]

Good luck and I'm glad you came for suggestions prior to using your mech mod. I think you should be able to use it safely with a little help, welcome to ECF.

Anna

 

[bwh79]

1. Ohms law- knowing that I can use any coil at or above .1

Where would you get that idea?! .1 is awful low for a single-battery mech mod. What battery are you using? What's its amp limit? Where'd you get it? Where'd THEY get it?

Also I would never recommend a pinless/fauxbrid/"fake hybrid"/whatever you want to call it (just don't actually call it "hybrid," because that already means something else), for a first-time mechie. They just add one more layer of "sh that could go seriously wrong," and you need to learn to walk before you run.

 

[bwh79]

4.im also afraid of the amount of time I can drag on each puff, as I think that too long a puff can be dangerous if the battery heats up.

If you build within the CDR limitations of your chosen cell, you can drag as long as you want. The "CD" in CDR stands for "continuous discharge."

 

[bwh79]

Where would you get that idea?!

Sorry I don't mean to be rude, I'm just wondering if you've misunderstood some piece of information that we could be more clear on, or if someone has simply given you bad advice.

 

[AzPlumber]

Here's a little reading for you:
(8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum


(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum

Please heed this advice ^^^^

It's not enough to just read it, you also need understand why (example: why is the RDA's center pin important on a direct battery mod)

 

[Aaron'sNewNightmare]

I was going off of the chart on the battery topic as well....
I don't know if it's a typo or real but
0.1- 42 amp seemed off to me...
at any rate, if it goes by the chart, you'd technically can vape a single battery at .1 as long as you do have that high end 30amp...but it's danger close and not worth it when you consider it degrades over time...

 

[Aaron'sNewNightmare]

Sorry I don't mean to be rude, I'm just wondering if you've misunderstood some piece of information that we could be more clear on, or if someone has simply given you bad advice.

That's why I said I'm going to shoot for at least above a .20 on mech

 

[AzPlumber]

.1 is 42 amps - .2 is 21 amps

 

[bwh79]

I don't know if it's a typo or real but
0.1- 42 amp seemed off to me...

At full charge of 4.2v, that is correct. 4.2v / 0.1Ω = 42A

With battery sag and volt drop you're not likely to actually get 4.2v, not for any length of time anyway, but we always use that in our calculations for safety's sake. If you want to push the envelope, that's your prerogative, but you won't find (m)any of the responsible posters here advising you to do so.

at any rate, if it goes by the chart, you'd technically can vape a single battery at .1 as long as you do have that high end 30amp

If you're looking at the same chart that I am, nothing on there has a CDR over 30A, nor a MVA over 40A (and even at MVA, you're looking at a very hot battery if the mod malfunctions and it fires continuously for very long.)

...but it's danger close and not worth it when you consider it degrades over time...

Dangerous and not worth it, I agree with, at any rate.

That's why I said I'm going to shoot for at least above a .20 on mech

That's a much better idea. At full charge that will draw 4.2v / .2Ω = 21A, which is more in the range you probably want to be at.

 

[IMFire3605]

1) Ideally if the moons and stars align just right, and that mythical purple moon appears off the horizon, maybe, just maybe you might get a 0.1ohm build on a single battery mech one day. Currently not a snow ball's chance at Hades' Gates with current battery technology. Never build a coil/coils setup that will exceed 50% of your battery's total rated CDR, 20amp battery shouldn't exceed 10amp in your build, 30amp battery that would be 15amps in your build. There is a reason for that, as batteries age, they lose mah, ask full CDR of a battery that decrease in mah is accelerated due to the heat built up internally from the strain, heat is the biggest enemy to any Lithium based battery, at about 12 to 18months of gentle use, a battery reaches about 50% its original mah in total, full CDR all the time strain that time frame is reduced into 30 to 60 days, mah coupled with the battery specs own C (Current) rating determines final CDR, either decrease the CDR plummets with it. My suggestion and from my own personal experience in super-sub-ohm mech use, absolute lowest build even with 30amp batteries is 0.25ohm to 0.3ohm, for a beginner, you are looking at about 0.5 to 0.8ohms until you truly, truly get a grasp of how everything works together.
2) My advice to mech users, especially sub-ohm mech users, you are on a single battery mech you need 30amp CDR batteries, no getting around it, only exception I would suggest is the Sony/Kinion VTC5A 2500mah 25amp given how strong that battery is, but still, 30amp batteries are highly suggested, and "ONLY" 3 batteries make that 30amp grade, LG's HB2, HB4, and HB6, all 1500mah (battery technology of today, manufacturer's have to either sacrifice run time (mah) for current throughput (amps) like the LG HB series, sacrifice amps for more runtime like the LG HG2 with 3000mah but only max 20amps CDR, or balance the two like the VTC5A 2500mah runtime and 25amps CDR). Remember, no matter what a battery has printed on its label, there is no 18650 format battery that exceeds the LG HB Series' 30amps True CDR, everything else that says 35 to 40 or more amps max is a lie and stay away from that battery and brand entirely. Globally only 4 manufacturers actually make high amp output 18650's (the Big 4) and they are LG, Samsung, Sony/Kinion, and Panasonic/Sanyo, everyone else like Efest, IMRen, AWT and a host of others buy from the Big 4 anyway, save some money, increase your safety level, and just buy the Big 4 authentics anyway.
3) You want as much space between the top cap positive of the battery to the threaded negative of the RDA/Atomizer on any device to prevent dead shorting, the mech like stated above is a misnamed device, it is not a hybrid, a hybrid has its own threading type and a dedicated pin, seriously you should have been asking these questions when contemplating pushing that purchase button, direct to battery contact faux-hybrid mechs are not, repeat "NOT" for the beginner mech user, way to much can go wrong and lord knows how many mechs I've seen go boom that were direct to battery contact mechs. Regardless you want at least 1/16th to 1/8th an inch space between that battery and threads of your RDA/Atomizer, I would have suggested a mech with a rodium silver plated or full copper pin if you were worried about voltage drop first, but it is what it is.

 

[tj99959]

Well 0.1 ohms @ 4.2v = 42 amps. There is no such thing as a 42 amp CDR battery!!!!

Most of the better batteries are rated at 20A CDR, but just remember that over time a battery's charge time becomes less, and as the mAh of the battery becomes less so does the CDR. So 6 months down the road that 20 amp battery may only be a 10 amp battery.
For that reason exceeding 50% of the CDR is not safe. So the lowest resistance that should be used with a 20a battery, for instance, is 0.4 ohms. (.4 ohms @ 4.2v = ~10a)

POINT BLANK: If you plan on using one of those faux hybrid top caps, please stand a good distance away from me when vaping!!! nuf' said!

I've been using mechanical mods as long (if not longer) than most anyone still active on this forum, and there is a simple reason that I have never had any sort of problem. I found out HOW to use one before I used one. So a big thumbs up for asking about them before getting one. Now do your home work!

add:
I have a 1.8 ohm coil in my RDA that's on my mechanical. So I'm just pointing out that there are a lot of different ways to use a mechanical. Not all of them throw caution to the wind.

 

[Izan]

 

[Baditude]

All great advice above.

1. Ohms law- knowing that I can use any coil at or above .1 but I'm thinking that I'll be happy and try and go .20-above...

0.2 ohm is too low for a single battery mechanical; 0.3 ohm leaves no margin of error or safety.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations

• As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

2.what my battery's rated current is...

Please be aware that many battery resellers and advertisers (rewrappers or rebranded) will advertise highly inflated amp ratings (continuous discharge rating) to entice uninformed consumers to purchase their product.

Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded) Battery?

• Learn what a rewrap cell is. If you are using rebranded cells, does that mean it is inferior, poor quality, or even dangerous? Which batteries are suspected to be rebranded batteries?

3.the mech I'm using has a hybrid top...I am currently getting a "purge rda deck" because correct me, but one of the biggest things is making sure that the pin for the positive isn't ginormous or danger flush..

The most important practice when using a so-called hybrid connector mech is that the center pin of the atomizer is protruding and not flush. A flush center pin will result in a battery hard short.

 

[Ben85]

Most of the safety elements have been covered well (and importantly so). What I will say is that the comments of not exceeding 50% of the batteries CDR and not using faux hybrid mods are, IMO, excessive. There is absolutely nothing wrong at all with a faux hybrid top cap IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. They are only dangerous when they are used by people that don’t know - but that would go for all mechs really. The safety principles with mechanicals are really simple - you just need to know what they are.

 

[VHRB2014]

It took me a year of experience before I went sub ohm on a mech. It took another year before I dropped down to .2, and now with 3+ years experience and the new I-joy 26650 battery, I can do .15 to .17 and feel perfectly safe with my mechs that use this battery.

Donald De Carl summed this up perfectly 60 years ago, " Nothing teaches so well as practical experience".

There is much more to it then a sub-ohm coil, the proper battery, and Ohms Law. There are insulators to learn about, as these are the only things that keep you from blowing it up. What is warm, hot and what is TOO HOT. Grounding issues and arcing issues. Cleaning. The totality of it can not be learned in a day or two by reading, it has to be applied, slowly, so that no teaching moment is lost or becomes a disaster.

BOL.

 

[Aaron'sNewNightmare]

Well, sub ohming is something I'm willing to do safely...as, I've always did no lower than .30 on my boxes....
I just need affirmation that if I go like the suggested .40 and above.....will it still be an enjoyable cloud and flavor experience?
Because from what I've felt from 40w and below...it's like a cig...
So I bought some kanthal 26....
And to the people that are crossing the line between caring and downright stickling....know that I am one of few people even on here who came forward to say I have to start somewhere for this passion...and with my specific tube like that one guy said...I'll get more experienced and know what I'm dealing with.

 

[Aaron'sNewNightmare]

I mean, I recently got awts that I know mooch tested from 40 to actually be just 20...
That's sick to advertise...but that doesn't mean I can't use them being perfectly fine

 

[AzPlumber]

There is much more to the performance of a coil than resistance (ohms)