Coil size (diameter), coil mass, coil position within the atomizer, wick material, wicking technique, air flow, ect. all play a part in how a coil performs.
Advice for a new mech tube user
- Thread starter Aaron'sNewNightmare
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Well, the problem with re-wraps is what Mooch TESTED is a couple batteries (probably) and the entity doing the re-wraps may not keep them consistent across the board. I realize this is perhaps taking things a little far, but it did come up on an another thread just now and I think it's a valid point. What if those rewarps are just whatever seconds are coming through that entity???
THE LAST place I would use a rewrap, EVER, would be in a mech mod. Seriously, step one, get some branded batteries from a reputable supplier, it will cost like $15--20 max, and arrive to you fairly quickly. Remember just because Mooch tested an unknown battery source, doesn't mean they are all going to be identical. MAYBE they will, but with mech mods the answer "maybe" is just never acceptable.
Though, I'm glad you are still here on this thread, learning more, and etc. And I do as well, every time I get involved in reading one, and I just bet I will try a mech mod (everyone duck and run for cover, LOL) at SOME POINT in my life. I just cannot imagine it WON'T happen.
Anna
I absolutely cannot believe no one has yet mentioned tolerance variations especially in the the coil wire. Resistance wire is rated at so many ohms per inch, BUT they usually have a tolerance range of + OR - some additional amount of resistance. It is rarely EXACT. Add to that if you make the legs slightly longer or shorter than expected this can also change actual final resistance. So if you "shoot for" the lowest possible resistance that your battery can support, what are you going to do when thanks to tolerance variance you end up at an unsafe resistance? You should always "shoot for" a resistance a good bit higher than minimum safe resistance to account for this.
As someone else mentioned it is always a good idea to shoot for a resistance that will put the load at roughly 50% of the batteries rated continuous drain rating. This will protect allow plenty of room for tolerance variations and protect both you and your battery.
As someone else mentioned it is always a good idea to shoot for a resistance that will put the load at roughly 50% of the batteries rated continuous drain rating. This will protect allow plenty of room for tolerance variations and protect both you and your battery.
My two cents.. If you can, choose a mech with a plastic sleeve for the battery, with a finish surface like cerakote, it prevents oxidation.
And, perhaps, a 21700 mech mod. There 's the amazing Samsung 30t, with 40A cd,...
Inviato dal mio ONEPLUS A3003 utilizzando Tapatalk
And, perhaps, a 21700 mech mod. There 's the amazing Samsung 30t, with 40A cd,...
Inviato dal mio ONEPLUS A3003 utilizzando Tapatalk
Understand that the .4 ohm suggestion is for a 20a single battery.
Next understand that the resistance by it's self is not what makes for a good vape. I can easily make a 3 ohm coil run so hot that you couldn't stand to vape it. Likewise I can make a .3 ohm coil run so cold that you wouldn't want to vape it. So a properly made .4 ohm coil can produce all the flavor & cloud anyone would want. (cloud competition not withstanding)
BTW in competition it's the guy with the most lung capacity that wins ... not the guy with the lowest resistance coil.
Add:
As for re-wraps, it all depends on who is doing the re-wrapping.
All AW batteries for instance are re-wraps. AW has never produced batteries. They "grade" batteries. Those that meet their specs get an AW wrapper, those that don't end up in electric razors & the like.
Mooch test results tell us which re-wrappers are OK and which should be avoided.
You would be surprise to learn how few actual battery producers there actually are. Excluding LiPo cells, they can be counted on one hand.
Last edited:
Apologize if I sounded to be scolding or condescending, more injuries in vaping have occured with younger people in your particular age bracket (the 15 to 25 age bracket, my dad called it the stupid years age bracket), especially with the direct to battery mechs (example the SMPL, especially the clones had a lot of mishaps not to long ago). Sorry if I seem at times in my replies to be bit blunt, just the way I am, I don't like walking on thin ice and beating around the bush, direct and straight forward is how I have always been, even in person. Treading into new waters and learning, I have no problems with it, it's when someone jumps off a cliff into an unknown pond, there trouble starts. Getting into mechs is one thing like wading into the pond, getting a direct to battery contact mech, there you jumped off the cliff into an unknown pond. @tj99959 brought up some very valid points, especially the cloud competition (lung capacity of the user compared to what resistance is being used), don't get me wrong most of my rebuilding knowledge came from my own experimenting in using a mech and RDA.
I have a very analytical mind, when I get a new rebuildable device I study it, the airflow, the way the posts are oriented, where the airflow comes from, depth and diameter of the chamber, how that airflow will vortex in the chamber, and finally how that vortex exits the through the mouth piece, diameter of the mouth piece, diameter of the air inlets. Envisioning all that even before start a build, then I adjust my coil design and where my targets will be, and build accordingly. A good build, one you'd put your trademark or craftsman mark on it, is a build that brings out all the strengths of your given RDA, from vapor production to flavor to proper throat hit and proper vape temperature you personally like. I've done more and left people blinking with higher Ohm builds than they have because they were only worried about "Hey man, whaz ya Ohmage at brah?", not what their RDA can really do with a proper build in it.
Should you center post or offset the coils?
Should you raise the coils up or let them rest on a small bed of wicking?
Wire diameter (gauge) of the wire that would work best? (starting with 26awg, no problems with that, 26 is a great gauge to learn with TBH, resilient and a balance of resistance per inch compared to thicker or thinner wires it is right in the dead center)
What diameter of the mandrel you can wrap and fit the coils in properly?
How close to the airflow do you need to be to get best airflow over the coils and not suffer spitting or juice dancing on the coils while still keeping the coils excellently cooled?
Sometimes less = more, while other times more = far less.
If you are definitely going to be clouding, you'll need better batteries than those AWT's, still highly suggest the LG HB Series or Sony VTC5A though, but experiment to your hearts content, just be safe about it, and always Ohm read your RDA before first pulsing to heat and anneal it during final adjustment, and then re-read it after properly wicked and before first actual use.
Hate to quote my own post, but I have one “disagree” rating on my post - and that is from the poster who is being way OTT with the whole faux hybrid thing. Please do not let one person put you off a whole batch of mods. That is absolutely ridiculous. That poster clearly does not know about mechs as otherwise they would realise that Mods of this type are absolutely fine if you know how to use them safely. This is not rocket science - get a grip.
Well to be fair, I was being coy in response to the one person who simply first put that coils don't mean everything , so I sarcastically informupped him....
I asked the developers on the site about what they build and reccomend..
And he said hg2 or vtc6
I got the earlier...which only clocks in at 20a
To which he said
I'm using Fused Clapton 30g/40g, 3mm ID, 5 wraps. I personally do not recommend building super low ohm, like any build lower than 1 ohm.
I asked the developers on the site about what they build and reccomend..
And he said hg2 or vtc6
I got the earlier...which only clocks in at 20a
To which he said
I'm using Fused Clapton 30g/40g, 3mm ID, 5 wraps. I personally do not recommend building super low ohm, like any build lower than 1 ohm.
So to set minds at ease...the build I'm going for is probably going to be at an ohm..worst thing from the build could be low performance...
Chamber size & air flow will determine if 1 ohm is low enough with any particular RDA/RTA. With a wide open air flow it probably won't be. So be aware of that.
@Ben85 [sorry Ben, but there is no way I'll advocate the use of those top caps. A good center pin in the top cap doesn't add enough resistance to worry about anyway.]
add: (and I'm just havin' fun with ya)
Ya, I know, I obviously don't know anything about mech mods.
Only been using them for seven years. So give me time, I'll figure them out.
Last edited:
Faux hybrids should never, ever be a new mech user's first choice. Nor should they be recommended as one. They have enough issues without throwing mech inexperience into the mix.
Chamber size & air flow will determine if 1 ohm is low enough with any particular RDA/RTA.
With a wide open air flow it probably won't be. So be aware of that.
^based on the coil to amp ratio, why would it not?
With a wide open air flow it probably won't be. So be aware of that.
^based on the coil to amp ratio, why would it not?
More air dilutes the vapor and thus the flavor. This can be compensated to a degree with a VW device but not with a mech. Since a mech has fixed voltage/wattage determined by coil resistance the only way to compensate is by changing coils or restricting airflow. Although if you restrict airflow too much the coil may get too hot since that airflow also provides some cooling to the coil. It's all a balancing act.
Now that I do not disagree with. What I don’t agree with is that they should never be used. They are a perfectly fine connection when used correctly.
Apologies for the tone of my replies. Have read today and they came across as grumpy. That was not my intention.
No one's here saying they should "never" be used. We're saying we choose not to use them, and advising the OP, who is a new mech user, not to jump in at the deep end.
- Status
Similar threads
