advise on super cleaning of inside battery pin please

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Ipster

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Typically, If the ProVari doesnt fire, or get power,
Its way overdue for a good cleaning and Noalox treatment.
This time, I've noticed the pin inside the tube is heavily
opaque/cloudy. Possibly corrosion from my wet winter environment.
its more than the standard 99% alcohol will remove.
once upon a time- I thought I saw a post about Bar Keepers Friend
on the long Qtip; cant recall if thats for firing pin in the tube or not.
if so- how would you be sure you removed all the BKF? :confused:
I hesitate to put anything other than 99% alcohol inside!
(without veteran advice). Also how hard can you push on the mechanism/pin to give it a good cleaning?
(Fear here is slipping off the pin and bumping the circuitry).
Thanks in advance.
All the Best.
 

p.opus

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Typically, If the ProVari doesnt fire, or get power,
Its way overdue for a good cleaning and Noalox treatment.
This time, I've noticed the pin inside the tube is heavily
opaque/cloudy. Possibly corrosion from my wet winter environment.
its more than the standard 99% alcohol will remove.
once upon a time- I thought I saw a post about Bar Keepers Friend
on the long Qtip; cant recall if thats for firing pin in the tube or not.
if so- how would you be sure you removed all the BKF? :confused:
I hesitate to put anything other than 99% alcohol inside!
(without veteran advice). Also how hard can you push on the mechanism/pin to give it a good cleaning?
(Fear here is slipping off the pin and bumping the circuitry).
Thanks in advance.
All the Best.

I'd call ProVape. How old is your ProVari. ProVape has gone back on their alcohol rinse suggestions due to the different glue they use to secure the control board down.

I'd take some really fine grit wet sand paper (for metal) and tape it to the end of the q tips and give it a couple rotations. You don't want to take too much metal off so that you lose contact between the terminal and the battery. But a couple of rotations might work.

You might also want to try some brasso. Not a whole lot, just enough to wet the tip of the Q-Tip. You don't want to get a big blob up in there. Then afterwards put a dry QTip up there to take off the Brasso film..
 

Paul.K

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It's pretty sturdy so I wouldn't worry too much about really getting in there to clean it. If alcohol with q-tip doesn't do it the next step is to use a pencil eraser. Works like a champ. Mine actually had some really thick buildup of some sorts (bought it used) and I actually took a dental pick to it and gently scraped it off with no issues.
 

Ipster

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THanks All,
I appreciate the help.
I hadnt mentioned I have used a 'yellow" pencil eraser (new)
not pink..I wanted to see how dark it came back.
i also had the thought about some fine grit emery with tube
(duh) facing the ground..for anything that can shed.
fyi-somewhere in the order of 18 months old. V2.5, pretty much
just after the body change- not sure. Warranty pau (up).
Dont mind a send back- just thought a good clean would solve-
yes I saw the ProVape retraction re:complete baths (which I dont think would take the build up off anyhow).
I'll try and let you know.
All helpful. :)
You are all great!
vape on, and fight for our rights to vape!
thanks, thanks thanks.
 

Ozwald

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I'm the one who recommends BKF - but I'd be a little hesitant to use it inside. The trick would be to use it on a q-tip, being extremely cautious since you're that close to the board. To 'rinse' it, I would use several damp q-tips while holding the Provari upright (so anything that accidentally drips doesn't risk hitting the board) & let it air dry completely before trying it out again. For that situation, I would hope that the pencil eraser does the trick first. I've not had a problem with my internal pin; I only use BKF on the 510 connection which is sealed from the electronics & you don't have to be nearly as cautious.

It's doable, but I would exhaust other, safer, possibilities first.
 

Ipster

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I'm the one who recommends BKF - but I'd be a little hesitant to use it inside. The trick would be to use it on a q-tip, being extremely cautious since you're that close to the board. To 'rinse' it, I would use several damp q-tips while holding the Provari upright (so anything that accidentally drips doesn't risk hitting the board) & let it air dry completely before trying it out again. For that situation, I would hope that the pencil eraser does the trick first. I've not had a problem with my internal pin; I only use BKF on the 510 connection which is sealed from the electronics & you don't have to be nearly as cautious.

It's doable, but I would exhaust other, safer, possibilities first.

OZwald
1st- thanks for the chuckles (your sig, et.al.) a day when it meant SO much!
2nd-thanks for personal reply. I do see remarkable endurance stories about these..but you're right; lets start conservatively! I am going to spend MORE time with pencil erasers first, such a small pin- patience is probably my best ally.
I live in the rainforest >300in/yr, in the wettest part of the winter season. Hardly are electronics built to endure this level of humidity. When one takes the time to read performance specs., typically they'll mention relative humidity tops at 89% to 93%. Dont have these for the proV. For example though-finally moved to FULLY RUGGED CF31 Toughbooks; equivalent electronics in spite of running dehumidifiers.
Not unlike all other electronics across the board- it seems they have diminished lives of less than 2 years in the rain forest. At that time- we sell cheap and replace with the most "waterproof" available in the applicable field.
Its this which has me hesitate to use any cleaner plus water-.
Also the probable cause for the dull corroded appearance of the firing pin in the first place.
Symptom- approx 1 in 20-30 button hits; she wont fire. If I pull the "batt", replace it immediately,
She fires! Male & Female threads are clean w/Noalox. Springs clean. CB=3.6 to 3.7 (average)
Top 510 pin or adjustment has no bearing (clean, regardless of cart/tank). With each successive cleaning of the pin- she goes longer between no fires, the pin becomes noticeably cleaner- still not shiny (at all). Everything else seems OK.
If "pin clean" isnt the ultimate answer- she'll get sent for check up to ProVape.
I performed 3 pretty good red eraser cleanings, followed by miniature electronic attachment brush vacuuming with the Miele reduced to 400 W from 1200w(floor).
I really cant remember if originally it arrived with dollop of noalox on internal pin or not-so I wont

Chance adding more potential grime attracting ingredient. Miele_micro_.jpg
i might add, your BKF is far better than the PBusardo paper clip scratches!
sorry, dont favor the advice of "scoring" metal to general public.
All the Best, Many thanks.
Ip
 

Ipster

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