I agree with this guy ^^. Did the exact same thing last nite with my AGA, my first coil ever actually. It shorted at first, so I just kept poking at it and pulsing power. Now the coils are all set up perfectly with no hot spots. I only oxidized the part of the wick that touches the coil, and wrapped the coil so it was touching the wick but not very tight.
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And this is where i un-subscribe from this thread...
Calm down, and listen to what people are telling you.
Internet temper tantrums are where i walk away.
Good day all!
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thanks, ill try that washer. my coil is loose enough to move the mesh. there isnt a short, the top wrap is simply heating higher then the rest. no matter what.
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There are two, and only two, reasons why a single coil will heat hotter than the rest.
#1 is a short. #2 is that coil is not in contact with the wick, so it can't dump extra heat into the SS mesh of the wick.
When it's the top coil that's red, it's typically a short. The bottom of the wick is grounded against the AGA-T's base...(that wick hole is SS, and it's a lot of surface area. It's pretty much guaranteed to ground the wick, regardless of how much you oxidize). The top leg is positive, so as soon as it can see ground, it'll go to ground.
Also, quit being a ...., we're all here helping and learning at the same time.
The one thing that should be done that I have not read (unless I missed it) in this post is when rolling your wick you want to fold the last 1/8" - 3/16" inward so when you finish rolling it the cut end is buried inside the wrapped wick. You are left with a wick with no cut edge allowing micro frays to touch the actual coil.
You don't need to start over, just unroll your wick 1/2" and fold it in and tighten up your wick and smooth it out.
And don't rant, it is possible to set up an AGA-T with out oxidizing your mesh at all without getting hot spots. I don't recommend it to a noob but it is possible. Being new to setting up an AGA-T, don't be so quick to take out your frustration and lack of skill on others who are able to achieve success that you aren't. Listen, learn and practice.
You don't need to start over, just unroll your wick 1/2" and fold it in and tighten up your wick and smooth it out.
And don't rant, it is possible to set up an AGA-T with out oxidizing your mesh at all without getting hot spots. I don't recommend it to a noob but it is possible. Being new to setting up an AGA-T, don't be so quick to take out your frustration and lack of skill on others who are able to achieve success that you aren't. Listen, learn and practice.
The Aga works fine. Its all about getting your technique/set-up right. BTW I am not spewing anything but 100% real life experience. You can see for yourself in another thread I recently started.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/371960-kanthal-ribbon-wire.html#post8386168
And yes. All I do is wash my mesh with dish detergent and then rinse it off, then dry it with a paper towel. Then torch lightly to remove any remaining oils, just incase. In the post you can see the color of what a prepped "un-oxidized" mesh looks like.
You can also take a look at this post as well. I further detailed a coil cleaning of the same "un-oxidized" wick with higher resolution pictures.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...t-spot-free-cleanable-coil-2.html#post8421239
Perhaps you could benefit from the method in the OP of that thread by Petar K. He is credited with originating the "drill-bit" method.
I too have been having a heck of a time getting my aga-t up and running right. I have read a lot about how and what to do, tryed to apply it to what I was doing. After about 2 weeks of messing with it off and on, I gave up for a while and read some more, last night I gave it another shot, and it was working well for a while at the lower voltages, but as soon as I thought it was good more shorts and hot spots. Patience is the key here, I am going to keep trying tonight, I have a feeling that when it works, it's really going to be worth it.
If you're still struggling, I had good success with the Petar K. drill bit and Bluegrasslover's cotton hybrid method, suggested by EDO in the modding forum. The cotton makes seasoning and un-oxidized wick that much easier, and it's a good stepping-stone to setting up coils without the cotton. Just getting a good-running wick and coil will give you the confidence to move forward.
a 28g/ 9 wrap? how do you fit that many coils on your wick, with 28g. i can only seem to fit 5, maybe 6 at most. not that i would want to do that many, just curious. you have to be using the drill bit thing. thats weird because i do 5 wraps and get resistances around 1.1 to 1.2 ohms.
BuzzKilla, that coil is a thing of beauty! What advantage do you get from so many coils?
well, the coil ohmed out to 1.4 or something close to that...
I used it in conjunction with a kick @ 10 watts. The vapor was really thick, REALLY thick.
drained the battery, so i dropped it down to 30ga. and went with 6 wraps.
but to answer your question... it vaporizes more juice quicker... so its not meant for those long drags... more of a short power hit , kind of vape.
I used it in conjunction with a kick @ 10 watts. The vapor was really thick, REALLY thick.
drained the battery, so i dropped it down to 30ga. and went with 6 wraps.
but to answer your question... it vaporizes more juice quicker... so its not meant for those long drags... more of a short power hit , kind of vape.
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Free hand, direct wrap on the wick, wasn't tough. Wrapped it outside of the AGA, inserted it, and adjusted the coils a bit. Took about 10 min to get it firing evenly.
As for your ohms with only 5 or 6 wraps, maybe your wick is thicker? Mine is 2.5ish mm. The math works out to it being 1.3 ohms...but I get 1.5...probably due to the thick wire having a nonsignificantly larger diameter than the wick, (compared with 32ga).
I run it at 5.7 volts right now, which works out to 22 watts. Hits VERY nice, no burny taste at all. 6 volts (24 watts) still doesn't taste like burning, but the TH is too much for me to handle, (Gorilla Juice 12 mg). Only problem at that wattage is the wick can't quite keep up. I can vape vertical all day at 10 watts. At 22 it will start to dry out at about 8 seconds of firing. Doing the genny tilt allows me to chain vape without dry hits.
Edit: Bloody hell, my white balance was set for flash for those shots....oh well, they look pretty with the orange glow.
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gdeal, explain to me what exactly ur washing off that allows it to become perfectly non-conductive. theres gotta be a non-conductive material that wicks and can sustain the heat of a coil.
btw, i did the drillbit method. same thing. but the drillbit method worked fine on my phoenix. gotta hunt down some timy washers
btw, i did the drillbit method. same thing. but the drillbit method worked fine on my phoenix. gotta hunt down some timy washers
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That's all I can tell you is this: If the device is capable of flawless operation, and other people are able to achieve that flawless operation, but you are not able to achieve the same flawless operation, then the problem lays in the technique of the operator, not the device.
Now I might just be the luckiest guy on ECF, but I did some diligent youtube and ECF studies prior to ordering my AGA-T, and from the first go, it has never taken me more than 10 minutes to set up from scratch and get a hot spot free vaping monster. Further study and practice has improve the experience as I no longer need to run with the fill screw left off in order to keep up with juice demand.
You can't look at your painting and exclaim that your paints suck, you need to work on your technique and try to mimic what other successful people are doing, then make it your own.
Now I might just be the luckiest guy on ECF, but I did some diligent youtube and ECF studies prior to ordering my AGA-T, and from the first go, it has never taken me more than 10 minutes to set up from scratch and get a hot spot free vaping monster. Further study and practice has improve the experience as I no longer need to run with the fill screw left off in order to keep up with juice demand.
You can't look at your painting and exclaim that your paints suck, you need to work on your technique and try to mimic what other successful people are doing, then make it your own.
Interesting things here. I have six AGA-T's and two bliSS and for the life of me, I really dont get all these "methods". How bloody hard is it to wrap a coil directly on to a wick? When wrapped, push the wick gently to the centre post and connect...test fire/adjust...then vape. SIMPLES! Drill bits? Cigarette paper?
The only thing I am washing off is the residual machine oils. Washing it does not make it non-conductive. After I wash it, I torch it lightly. Sometimes washing it doesn't get all the oils off. The light torching may create a thin oxidized layer. I believe that when you test fire your coil with out the wick inside, some oxidation may occur on the coil as well.
So when you place your wick into a coil that has minimal pressure between the two. You are not disturbing any oxidation that may be there. The other part is breakin the wick in. If you have minimal pressure, any shorts will be small in surface area and minor. When you start at low v's, any minor shorts will fix themselves either through self oxidation or from a carbon build up of juice. If you hit the coil/wick with high v's before its broken in, you make the issue worse.
Most of this is just a guess, but as far as I could tell from reading thousands of post here on ECF, this is whats happening.
Hopefully this helps, the washers are the way to go to shorten that positive lead, they worked for me.
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