it may vaporize more juice, but not as quickly, a 10 wrap coil is definately more unresponsive than lets say a 5 wrap coil of 28 or even a 10 wrap of 32. so if someone is looking for more of a 'short power hit', a 10 wrap coil isnt the way to go.
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it may vaporize more juice, but not as quickly, a 10 wrap coil is definately more unresponsive than lets say a 5 wrap coil of 28 or even a 10 wrap of 32. so if someone is looking for more of a 'short power hit', a 10 wrap coil isnt the way to go.
dont knock it till you try it 
i experiment with wraps and gauges to find out for myself. and i found it a very satisfying vape.
i experiment with wraps and gauges to find out for myself. and i found it a very satisfying vape.
dont knock it till you try it
i experiment with wraps and gauges to find out for myself. and i found it a very satisfying vape.
no doubt, a great vape, and believe me i have tried it, all i am saying is the response time, it is not a quick short kind of vape, it takes more time to heat all those coils, especially at 10 watts. likewise if you built a 15 wrap coil, thats even going to take even more time. sorry i didnt mean to put down your configuration, and know that medium to low resistant 28g coil will produce clouds, but with 10 wraps and 10 watts it definately will be a slower to get started and longer vape then a less wrap coil of the same wire. i just seemed that your description was backwards. sorry i should of never even made the comment, it really doesnt even matter, all that does is that it works for you.
you are on the right track.
the key is to get that build up on the wick and keeping it there.
try not to disturb that build up when wrapping the coil, or in your case feeding the wick through the coil.
you want the coil to be up against the wick without putting pressure on it (my best results).
like meat sneakers said, starting at a low voltage, will make dealing with shorts a lot easier. and as a result will also build up some more deposits between the coil and wick as you vape through the first few tanks. After the shorts are sorted you can go crazy with voltage.
i think the paper methods are a band-aid solution, and i have never bothered.
once that wick is well used, wrapping the second coil will be a breeze, compared to your current struggles.
it's been about 6 weeks since i've last had to touch a coil.
aside from my most recent purchase(ERA) which also is wicked with SS.
I know everything has been covered. I think for know Im giving up on wrapping coils. tried it 5 times now and changed wicks 3 times. Still getting the hot spot on top and very little vapor. Im going back to my carto. It has not topped that yet. Dont mean to be a quitter but need to vape more and not get frustrated.
I have the AGA T@ and tried 32 kathal and 500 mesh rolled it different ways and tried it with different configs of coiling.
i would give 28g wire a try before giving up, what device are you using with the aga-t?
Some of the best advice I've followed (other than the cotton hybrid method -- have you tried that? I have a video of the setup if you'd like to see it done) is from Mike Zen, to prod the coils while pulsing the power. I made an new wick and coil tonight using only the "flame to burn off machine oil" pass (not really oxidizing, just burning off oil) on the mesh, wrapped the coil directly on the AGA, and got instant top-leg hotspot. I kept prodding it with a toothpick (which eventually burned, but it works without the risk of depositing metal on the wick which can lead to more shorts), and pulsing the power. Eventually the hotspot spreads out and all your coils begin to glow evenly. Once that's accomplished at your lowest voltage, slowly raise it to verify the veracity of the coil, and if it's fine add your juice and you're off.
I know it can be frustrating, and I'm only on about my fourth or fifth successful coil, but it's getting easier. Prod your coils while pulsing power and you can alleviate that top-leg hotspot. I don't use washers or wrap the wire back on the top leg, nor do I lean the wick towards the center post. It's a simple matter of eliminating the shorts and the coil will glow evenly.
it seems like maybe you have tried everything, but i am not sure what you have or have not tried, i just know the aga has issues with the top coil, if you dont have the washers, all you should have to do is make your wick, try making it kind of solid, so when you insert it and coil it, you can slightly bend it towards the pp, lets say the distance without doing anything is 1/4 in, from a perfectly straight wick to the pp, now coil the wick, but not to tight,nor to loose, after you wrap it bend it over half the distance of before, if your wick is kind of solid it should stay there without wanting to come back to the starting spot. this is important because any extra tension away from the pp will add to the problem. now that it is slightly bent to this position, connect the leads. connect the top lead in the opposite direction to your wick wrap. with no juice in the tank, fire it up at a low volt and wait till it glows, if it still has a hot top coil prod with a tooth pick or something, prod the coils below the top one, prod all till they are all glowing evenly. if still hot spot on top, it would probably be from either a loose top coil or to tight of a top coil. imo the 28g wire will make this easier to manage, or at the least 30g wire. being that you dont have a mechanical mod and that your device cuts out under like 1.3 ohms, then maybe 30g might work better, but 32g imo is just to thin and touchy. a thicker wire will hold its shape alot better. good luck, stay with it, it will work
I hate to disagree, but people new to setting these up are best served by making a coil with minimal wraps in my opinion. 28ga is going to require quite a few wraps to achieve a resistance that works well on common VV mods. With 32ga, four wraps (a 4/3 wrap actually) gets a pretty consistent 1.8-2.2ohm coil given the wick hole size on these AGA units. Fiddling with 4 wraps instead of ~7 is far easier for the person setting up a Genesis-style atty for the first time. If you anneal the wire first, a lot of the "springiness" is gone and coils are easy to wrap with proper tension.
Whatever works for you is always great, but keeping the number of coils to a minimum reduces the amount of poking and prodding required to get the coil working properly until you're more comfortable doing the setup.
Just a quick noob question about hot spots about what is considered to be a hot spot or just a dry wick. Let's say that after I set the wick and adjust the coil for it to glow evenly all the way up to 4.8v, I fill up the tank and fire it up and after like 5 sec the top coil and/or leg starts glowing. Would that be considered to be a hot spot or just a dry wick?
calpis, from one noob to another, I consider that a hot spot. In my limited experience, I've found that anytime any one section of the coil glows red I get a burnt hit. When that happens I either make do for a while if it's minor and I don't want to fuss more with it at the time, nudge the coils a bit more or leave it till I have the time to do it justice. HTH.
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I wrote the poor me letter couple days ago and the funniest thing happened. I went back in my work room and made another wick out of 500 mesh and cleaned it and just burned the oil off thats all. rolled it up and before i put it into the wick hole I wrapped the coil while in my hand. Got the coils wrapped real nice and left a lead on the top end and then the bottom end. Put it in the wick hole and put the leads on pos and neg. And BAM...worked like a charm at 3.0 v and turned it up to 3.2 BAM worked nice again 3.6...had to adjust a little but then BAM they all lit up. Im so loving the vape now! I forgot to tell you I used 28 gage Kanthal this time. No washers no hot spots no bending wick!! Its a AGA T2...I ordered a DID clone thinking this AGA was crap...man was I wrong!! Thanks to StaircaseWit for that tid bit of advice. Thanks to all the others for having patience with all us newbies...its very frustrating to fail at this but very rewarding when you succeed. I might want to add that the flavor is about the best I have tasted with my Heavenly tobacco from Heathers!! OH one more thing...lost my fill screw....anyone know what size it is? I would like to try this with it in...it is wicking like a beast. Shoot one more thing...Its pulling only 1.0 om is that a bad thing? Im afraid to turn the volts up past 3.7. Any suggestions?
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So I have the agat-2+ on a ccts and when I chain vape, after about 3 or so pulls I can tell that the top coil is glowing but I've never experienced a burnt hit, just dry hits. But as soon as I toss it onto my ego t2 upgrade mod in unregulated mode, I can chain vape it constantly without the dry hits that the ccts gives me even with the same battery. All this with both mods being vaped around 40 degrees from a vertical position. I'm beginning to feel that this is an issue with the ccts making a good contact with either the battery or the aga-t2. I've already completely wiped down the ccts with some 91% isopropyl which reduced the voltage drop under load by 0.8v.
Edit: I think I figured it out. Seems like the ccts's positive post is pushing just a little too much against the center pin on the aga and causing it to slowly rise up and creating a poor connection. The flat plate on my center pin isn't exactly perpendicular with the post and the slight slant causes it to dig into the silicone sleeve. So to fix this, I just have to take the aga off of the ccts, remove the top cap, push down on the center post a bit to push the center pin out a bit, and screw it back onto the ccts.
Edit: I think I figured it out. Seems like the ccts's positive post is pushing just a little too much against the center pin on the aga and causing it to slowly rise up and creating a poor connection. The flat plate on my center pin isn't exactly perpendicular with the post and the slight slant causes it to dig into the silicone sleeve. So to fix this, I just have to take the aga off of the ccts, remove the top cap, push down on the center post a bit to push the center pin out a bit, and screw it back onto the ccts.
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And we have lift off! Awesome. You know what you described is exactly what made a difference for me. A solid wick and a hand wrapped coil and all of a sudden I didn't need band aids for my hot spot problems, my wicking issues dissapeared and I run full tilt with the fill screw in now.
About your missing fill screw, Your AGA-T should have come with a spare along with o-rings and an extra center post nut.
well, it seems it isnt the aga t's fault. i made a coil on a drill bit, hooked it up by itself, heats evenly. pole distance doesnt even matter either. its the damn ss wicks. just ordered fresh 400 mesh. gonna try to wash it, then lightly burn it. wasted all my mesh burning the hell out of them, and still getting hot spot on the top coil. 7 coils/meshs later, i still havent enjoyed either my new Vamo, or Aga-T
still dont get why its always that top coil that ruines the oxidation though.
im using kanthal 32g wire. should i get the nico wire instead?
still dont get why its always that top coil that ruines the oxidation though.
im using kanthal 32g wire. should i get the nico wire instead?
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just tried Mac Gyvering the top coil by wrapping the bare top lead with a small piece of mesh to act as a heat sink. didnt help, lol. this is starting too piss me off!!!
<------- AGA-T HOT SPOT FACE UNTIL PROBLEM SOLVED!
<------- AGA-T HOT SPOT FACE UNTIL PROBLEM SOLVED!
Stick with the Kanthal, the NiChrome is even tougher to work out hot spots. The Kanthal is a bit hardier and will not pop as easy as the Nichrome. Prod the coils around while your firing the device, soon you'll get the hang of it.
ok thanks. yea, the prodding dont help. my coils are perfectly spaced too. just put a 7 wrap coil with some cotton guaze. ill try mesh again when i get it in the mail.
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