aga-t+ poor wicking with screw in fillhole

Status
Not open for further replies.

RomanHelmet

Full Member
Verified Member
Oct 27, 2011
39
15
USA
I have been having varying results trying all sorts of setups so far and finally have a pretty good one. My problem is that when I put the screw back into the fillhole wicking basically stops, completely. I'll take like 2 hits with the unit fully horizontal and it will go super dry. Take the screw out and I can chain vape it until I pass out from nicotine high. I would like to be able to fill the fillhole with the screw though, as I get some leaking issues if the unit is horizontal too long.

Where is my issue? Is my wick too thick? It kind of slides right into the wick hole with just a slight amount of resistance. I almost falls in by itself. Any thinner with the wick and wouldn't it not be large enough to properly wick enough juice?
 

dirtyrigger

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 11, 2012
226
99
Phoenix, AZ
If air can't get in the tank then a vacuum is created and proper wicking cannot happen. I suggest you get in the habit of keeping your pv upright when not in use like most of us do. The only other option i can think of would be to use a very small drill bit to make a hole down the center of the fill screw, it could possibly let enough air in while leaking slow enough that its not a major issue, or it could lead to dry hits AND a leak. It can be a pain keeping it upright but for me its worth it for vape quality.
 
Hi guys... try making a semi solid mesh or a mesh with a 2mm silica in it... a semi solid for me is a mesh that i tightly roll, tight as hell with a paperclip in the middle... roll it as tight as possible, i use the 500 mesh... oxidize it and dip it in plain water... after that you can just re-torch it untill it glows and drip a few drops of juice on it... and light it up on fire and let it burn... do it a few times... i do mine 5-6 times because i know it would last long... :) when coiling, do it with the clip in it... remove it prior to dry burn... the silica one works the same way... the oxidization process i mean... give it a try... :)
 

EDO

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 15, 2009
1,538
502
If you make your wick a little smaller in diameter than the wick hole....then you should be able to put in the fill screw in and not have wicking problems. With my Cobra I always put the fill screw in and it wicks great even with a 1ohm set up that eats juice like crazy. With the fill screw in the Cobra is completely leak proof and pocket friendly.
 

PhreakySTS9

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 26, 2011
1,130
617
Shayol Ghul, The Great Blight
Hi guys... try making a semi solid mesh or a mesh with a 2mm silica in it... a semi solid for me is a mesh that i tightly roll, tight as hell with a paperclip in the middle... roll it as tight as possible, i use the 500 mesh... oxidize it and dip it in plain water... after that you can just re-torch it untill it glows and drip a few drops of juice on it... and light it up on fire and let it burn... do it a few times... i do mine 5-6 times because i know it would last long... :) when coiling, do it with the clip in it... remove it prior to dry burn... the silica one works the same way... the oxidization process i mean... give it a try... :)
You may want to try oxidizing your wick less. Just do the absolute minimum you need to get it working properly, and completely bypass the juice burns. The more you do this, the ticker the layer of oxidization builds. Which, while may make it a tad easier to set up a coil, can also prevent your wick from working as well as it should. Just food for thought.
 

c00lkatz

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 10, 2011
171
83
Dallas, TX
Try the Peter K drill bit and unoxidized coil method. For me a 3/32" drill bit was the perfect size for the AGA-T+ hole. Using this method, I can leave the fill screw in no problem. The key is to have the coils barely touching the wick and to make sure the wick is very loose inside the wick hole. A 3/32" drill bit fits perfectly inside the wick hole, and with the coils the same inner diameter and lined up perfect with the hole, coils even and parallel, with a properly fitting wick (loose inside the coil with just a small bit of friction, no tension on the wick/coils perfectly straight and lined up), there is plenty of space between the wick and hole. I vape this setup using 28awg @ 1.2 ohm on a Kamry K100 mechanical mod using #400 mesh, and I can leave the fill screw in no problem and get great flavor and performance. I can't vape perfectly vertical (wick not perfectly solid and only using #400 instead of #500), but I don't have to always be perfectly horizontal either. With the fill screw out and vaping horizontally I actually get flooding and leaking juice rather than good vapor.

Peter K method video tutorial (Follow this to the letter!)

IMG_20130220_211441.jpgIMG_20130220_211509.jpg
 
Last edited:

04stinugget

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 11, 2013
112
19
39
San Deigo
recently got mine working and noticed that the first setup I had wicked a little bit slowly. so i loosened the fill screw like a quarter turn and wicks like crazy again. will only leak a little bit very slowly so no big deal leaving the screw a bit loose. Also I rolled my wick out of an L shaped piece of mesh. so the part in the hole is a tiny bit loose and the top part above the hole is slightly closer to the pos post helping get rid of the top coil hot spot all the aga guys seem to be having trouble with. give it a whirl. should fix your issue and make your vape more enjoyable. this is my first rba so by no means am I a guru but i tend to think outside of the box a bit and so far this has been working for me.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread