aios td replica

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VaPreis

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I've had mine doing pretty well with cotton, but I'm yet to get a useable build with mesh! I always end up with burnt metal taste. I am not a genny guy, and, actually, this is the first atty that I have every even tried to use mesh. How tightly should the coil be wrapped around the mesh? Thanks!

I have yet to have a successful build with this thing using only mesh and wire. But at this point I think the problem is that I was rolling the mesh to thick for the wick hole. I didn't start getting good wicking builds until I started using 1/16" SS cable which fits very loosely in the wick hole. So if I were to build it again with just mesh, I would roll a fairly solid wick and at 1/16" diameter for a loose fit in the wick hole. I've also found it easier to wrap my coil on the wick before installing it and I've also been taking the wire and wrapping it to the opposite side of the screw post that it is attaching to for the best wick contact.

That being said, the best builds I've done have been using the SS 1/16" cable and sleeving it with 2mm Ekowool sleeve, then wrapping the coil on the sleeve. Currently have done that same style with a 7/64" micro coil which fits pretty nicely on that wick setup. I've also done a 4/5 wrap of 28 gauge that always works well. I'm pretty sure a mesh wick could be sleeved with similar success in this one, and may in fact be easier to deal with because I've been finding the cable keeps wanting to come apart while I'm building and I keep having to push it back together. Using the ekowool I can chain vape the tank dry and never get a burnt hit.

EDIT: Thought I'd also mention that using the ekowool it never floods. The only time you ever get any extra liquid is after you refill it and screw the cap back on, the pressure forces a little out the wick hole.
 
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VaPreis

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Latest build:

1/16" SS cable, sleeved with 2mm hollow Ekowool. 3/4 wrap of 28ga kanthal.

coilbuild.jpg
 

EDO

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For guys having trouble with the Aios here is a build that I do that works very very well and is very easy to do. First you need a piece of SS mesh (about 1cm X 2cm) and a cotton ball. Wrap a coil using a 5/64 drill bit. Fit the drill bit (with the coil) in the derilin hole in the base so that the drill bit is standing perfectly vertical...attach the leads to positive and negative posts.....this is super easy to do. Now grab some cotton from the cotton ball roll it around in your fingers so that you have about 4 cm of rolled cotton....roll one end ( about 2 cm) super thin. Wrap the piece of mesh around this thin section of the cotton. Keep rolling the mesh in your fingers and tighten the mesh so that it easily fits in the hole of the tank....it should be about 75% of the diameter of the tank. There should be no resistance for it to go into the tank at all. Now you have a wick that is is 4 cm long... the top will be 2cm of ss mesh wraped around cotton and the bottom will be 2 cm of fluffy cotton. Stuff the rest of the cotton (the fluffy side) into the coils. I usually have cotton going through the coils and touching the base. Your build is done. The mesh shouldn't touch the coils at all.....it should be about 3mm above the coils. You will have about 1.5 cm of the mesh going into the tank but that is ok....if you make the mesh shorter you will have a very hard time getting it into the tank...Once you try it you will see what I am talking about. IF anyone decides to try this and you have questions let me know.
 

VaPreis

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Guys, make sure your air control ring is screwed all the way up when you connect the base to the deck body. Mine was down just enough to keep my air holes behind the post, then I adjusted it and got the extra quarter turn I needed to put them by the coil.

I just received a brass contact version. The overall finish of it is nicer than my silver contact version, but on the brass one, the holes always end up in front of the negative post when fully screwed down. So for now, the only option is to leave it a 1/4 turn loose and use the air control ring to half-... lock it in place. I'm thinking I'm going to try sanding down the air control section in hope of getting a little extra turn on it to line it up properly.
 

dwcraig1

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I just received a brass contact version. The overall finish of it is nicer than my silver contact version, but on the brass one, the holes always end up in front of the negative post when fully screwed down. So for now, the only option is to leave it a 1/4 turn loose and use the air control ring to half-... lock it in place. I'm thinking I'm going to try sanding down the air control section in hope of getting a little extra turn on it to line it up properly.
That's how mine was, I soldered the 3 holes with silver bearing solder and drilled a single 1/16 hole in the correct spot
 

dwcraig1

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Just as a reminder that it can be done well with mesh only, this is the same wick/coil I posted back a few weeks ago. It was living in a Ziplock bag since it's last use, no leaking/flooding, worked great straight out of the bag. Imagine that, a Gen that doesn't leak.
1604790_726189850738575_517802488_n.jpg

I'm using it on a brass CY clone right now and it is amazing me at just how well it works. I had sort of forgotten about it and hadn't used it in weeks.
 
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tbaz

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I built mine with 325 mesh. Used a smaller width of mesh as this is a small wick. The coil was 30 guage micocoil, 10 wraps on a nail that losely fit into the wick hole. Pushed the wick all the way down. This coil is raised well above the deck as it is pretty small.


Hitting great, good to above average vapor, great taste with no mesh wire taste stronger throat hit to move me down to very low nic level all on a Chi You

I tried some sub ohm builds and it was working but not to par. This one came in aroun 1.5. I would like a little lower ohm but working good. I cycled through some of my standard ejuice and found some new and enjoyable taste in the vape. .


TBAZ
 
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VaPreis

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I tried another mesh build tonight. Wrapped 400 mesh around pin then wrapped a microcoil directly on it. Wick fits loosely in the hole. I did oxidize the wick as the problem for me always seems to be the wick shorting on the tank.

First few pulls were amazing, the best I've had out of this thing.....then almost instantly, burnt nasty hit as though it shorted again.

I take it apart and it fires nicely when it's out of the tank and makes crazy vapor. Put it back together, burnt and nasty.

I found that Fasttech is now selling a PMMA tank for the AIOS.....got one coming.
 

tbaz

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I left my set up standing for a few hours and the first draw was a nasty burnt flavor. The wick seemed dried out. I closed the airholes tight and had a few draws. If seemed to prime the wick. I opened the draw back up, it even gurgled a bit and then settle in. All was well again and back to the full vapor, hit and taste.

My guess it does not feed unless there is a vacum mostly due ot the tight wind on my wick. Since I wetted the wick on the initial build and vaped for sometime it stayed wet. After I left it for a while it seems to have dired out and had to be reprimed by closed airflow draws.

just a guess untill I get the clear tank as well.

TBAZ
 
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KillTheNoise

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Getting my AIOS and ChiYou soon, which I will be using in the drip configuration. My question is, has anyone successfully widened the air intake coming into the AIOS?

I like a BIG air intake, I use 1/8" holes on my top caps now and love it. I'm worried the intake on the AIOS will not be able to be drilled because of the threads on the inside of the piece.

Anyone?
 

USinchains

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The intake is 3 small holes lined up horizontally, they're very close together and removing the spaces between them could make it one long hole about 1/8" long and maybe 1/32" high with enough room in the channel to double it. More holes could also be added around the channel, but it already leaks in D mode if you're not careful.
 
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Commie

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Getting my AIOS and ChiYou soon, which I will be using in the drip configuration. My question is, has anyone successfully widened the air intake coming into the AIOS?

I like a BIG air intake, I use 1/8" holes on my top caps now and love it. I'm worried the intake on the AIOS will not be able to be drilled because of the threads on the inside of the piece.

Anyone?

I did, with a dremel. Just made the 3 holes bigger. I like the idea of 3 holes rather than one larger hole, since it will reduce leaking.

Unfortunately, I went slightly too big with them for my taste, and AFC doesn't work very well in my case (I prefer to use it as a lock nut).
 

KillTheNoise

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So I just took a 5/32nds to the middle hole, still a bit stiff for me so I'm going to try and make another 5/32nds beside it.

I have come across a new problem...in dripper mode it's leaky where the white rubber piece in between the two posts are. I have, three times now, changed my battery to juice leaking into the battery compartment through the adjustable screw.

Time to do some jbweld work or something. :|
 

dwcraig1

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So I just took a 5/32nds to the middle hole, still a bit stiff for me so I'm going to try and make another 5/32nds beside it.

I have come across a new problem...in dripper mode it's leaky where the white rubber piece in between the two posts are. I have, three times now, changed my battery to juice leaking into the battery compartment through the adjustable screw.

Time to do some jbweld work or something. :|
On just about everyone's Hcigar version (FT) the positive post was loose, this post is what holds it together, just screw in the post some more if this is the case.
Just thinking that maybe this could be your problem.
 

KillTheNoise

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On just about everyone's Hcigar version (FT) the positive post was loose, this post is what holds it together, just screw in the post some more if this is the case.
Just thinking that maybe this could be your problem.

Hmmm...possibly! I will try this before splattering any JB in my juice well!

Will post updates soon!
 
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