All my mods part1

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illuxion

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Don't the insect screens work from the hardware stores?

not fine enough, from left to right 500, 400, and 325. 500 feels like silk
IMAG0298.jpg
 

illuxion

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Raidy,

Do you have any tips for the wick rolling? I don't understand tight versus loose. I cut about 13mm wide and long enough to hit the bottom of the bottle and stick up long enough to stick beyond the coil a bit. It rolls up very tight and is small enough to fit inside a 1/8" OD pipe(just under 2mm ID). It fit perfect inside the pipe, don't have to force it, but it isn't loose. The mesh itself is tight enough to have a straight hole through it.

With 500mesh and 36gauge kanthol(the thin stuff) and about 1.2a moving it steams, but not very much, if I increase the current it turns to burning. I'd love to see steam like you porcelin tile genesis rig, but I'm not even getting enough for a good vape.

this is it steaming
IMAG0312.jpg


this is how my wick is rolled, this is 13mm wide rolled to just under 2mm
IMAG0307.jpg


What am I doing wrong? I feel sad. I've tried 325, 400, and 500 and both sizes of kanthal on all 3 meshes and don't get the super steaming :(
 

ecitek

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Feb 16, 2010
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That looks really cool. Here is a pic of what I am kicking around in my head - still haven't ordered anything yet - need to make sure I get the right stuff.

Probably a battery box with an 18650 and leads running to the atty from the side instead of through the bottle.

You could also use a glass dropper bottle (even amber or cobalt) which would look cool.

Geni1.jpg
 
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illuxion

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@WillyB,
For what it's worth the Mesh Company shipped to me here in the USA. $9 for the 4 sheets $7 for the shipping.
8"x12" sheets
$7 or £7, big difference. For 4 A4 sheets it is £25 or about $41, £9 or $15 is shipping. still not as bad at the $65 I paid for the McMaster Carr sample pack.
 

BillyP

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Oct 20, 2010
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That looks really cool. Here is a pic of what I am kicking around in my head - still haven't ordered anything yet - need to make sure I get the right stuff.

Probably a battery box with an 18650 and leads running to the atty from the side instead of through the bottle.

You could also use a glass dropper bottle (even amber or cobalt) which would look cool.

Geni1.jpg

This is clever, I like it. I see this more with a steam punk feel.
 

Willriker

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Raidy,

Do you have any tips for the wick rolling? I don't understand tight versus loose. I cut about 13mm wide and long enough to hit the bottom of the bottle and stick up long enough to stick beyond the coil a bit. It rolls up very tight and is small enough to fit inside a 1/8" OD pipe(just under 2mm ID). It fit perfect inside the pipe, don't have to force it, but it isn't loose. The mesh itself is tight enough to have a straight hole through it.

With 500mesh and 36gauge kanthol(the thin stuff) and about 1.2a moving it steams, but not very much, if I increase the current it turns to burning. I'd love to see steam like you porcelin tile genesis rig, but I'm not even getting enough for a good vape.

What am I doing wrong? I feel sad. I've tried 325, 400, and 500 and both sizes of kanthal on all 3 meshes and don't get the super steaming :(

Just trying to help (kind of talking out of my ....)

I am thinking that you might have some trouble with one of two things. Getting enough fluid to the Coil or how you constructed the coil.

Have you tried rolling it tighter? I was reviewing the equations used to describe a capillary and the radius of the capillary is inversly proportional to the hight of the fluid in the capillary. So, the tighter you make it, the higher the fluid will draw up the mesh. If it is not tight enough, you dont draw enough fluid up into the mesh. Also, if it is too tight, you will no longer have a tube forthe capillary effect to take place within... youll have a sponge instead.

Another thing i would look at is how many loops you are making out of the kanthal.

Best method to find the optimal configuration: Try and error. Importent parameters:

1) diameter of coil
2) distance between the coil wires (should be max. 1-2mm=vapour 2-4mm=th)
3) length of kanthal
4) how strong the screen is rolled (hope translation is o.k.)

Test, test, test and suddenly it happens: the WOW-effect!

EDIT:1,5Ohms is to low! should be 2,5-2,3Ohms

Raidy did mention how many loops, the spacing between the loops, the gauge of the wire, in addition to the verticle (top and bottom) dimensions of the coil itself had an effect a few times throughout this thread.

Those are the two places i would look.
 

justbrewit

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Jun 29, 2010
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i come back home from being out of town on business tomorrow and i'm looking forward to starting to get the gear needed for this. i have to make 3 or 4 mods for others and my wife before i can start this though. reading this thread is like reading a good book. i'm enjoying every post. alot of you on here have got some great talent for making these. mines gonna look crappy, but it will work and i choose function over form any day. if it works i don't care how it looks, i can work on looks later once i've figured out the function. thanks again and again and again for showing us your atty. if ever in california, i'll make sure to have some of my homemade cheese, sausage, beer, wine and mead ready for your visit!!!!!!
 

illuxion

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I played with the spacing as well. With both sizes of kanthal I was aiming for around 3 ohms which is 3 loops for the thin stuff and about 8 loops with the thick stuff. I made them evenly spaced and tried close together and far apart. I think it is purely something with how I made the wick. I just played a bit but don't have a power supply to play right now(I do but the garage is cold and I'm lazy right now lol) and the 2mm tube would wick to about 5mm above the liquid level but rolling it super tiny(under 1mm) it was wicking up 20mm above the juice. Raidy mention 1.8-2mm roll, but I must be missing something.

I'll play more tomorrow at work, hopefully Grand Master Raidy can offer some insight into proper wick making though.
 

raidy

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Oct 26, 2010
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Raidy,

Do you have any tips for the wick rolling? I don't understand tight versus loose. I cut about 13mm wide and long enough to hit the bottom of the bottle and stick up long enough to stick beyond the coil a bit. It rolls up very tight and is small enough to fit inside a 1/8" OD pipe(just under 2mm ID). It fit perfect inside the pipe, don't have to force it, but it isn't loose. The mesh itself is tight enough to have a straight hole through it.

With 500mesh and 36gauge kanthol(the thin stuff) and about 1.2a moving it steams, but not very much, if I increase the current it turns to burning. I'd love to see steam like you porcelin tile genesis rig, but I'm not even getting enough for a good vape.

this is it steaming
IMAG0312.jpg


this is how my wick is rolled, this is 13mm wide rolled to just under 2mm
IMAG0307.jpg


What am I doing wrong? I feel sad. I've tried 325, 400, and 500 and both sizes of kanthal on all 3 meshes and don't get the super steaming :(

1) the distance of your coil (from wire to wire) should be 1-2mm, not more.
2) there should be nearly no hole inside the screen, when you roll it.I believe, your atty gets not enough liquid.
3) the outside screen diameter should be 1.8-2.5mm, not more
4) may be, that the alu-tube and/or distance between screen and liquid-tank is to long.
 
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asdaq

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Illuxion, your wick looks too much like a telescope, you have no spiral. If you look at the variety of pics, you will see not just a tube of mesh, but mesh inside too, spiraling as it goes. The 'thickness' of the roll refers to how dense this spiral is, or the ratio of mesh and empty space. Hope this helps. Thanks for the mesh comparison pic too :)

The meshcompany will ship too. Buy 2 get one free gets you 3 A4 sheets for $25 shipped and you can mix and match. They use Royal Mail so it's on the slow side.
 

illuxion

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Thanks Raidy, I'll try a few more iterations while "working" tomorrow lol After playing tonight and looking how the steam train guys use the mesh the big hole seems to be a problem. It looks like there needs to be some space between the layers for it to work correctly, or a really small hole. Like I mentioned earlier with zero space between layers and a big 2mm hole in the middle the liquid barely wicked up 5mm, but rolling it even tighter to less than 1mm hole, the liquid wicked up 20mm. A longer tube and with some space between layers and no bif hole seems the best bet.
 

Gummy Bear

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$7 or £7, big difference. For 4 A4 sheets it is £25 or about $41, £9 or $15 is shipping. still not as bad at the $65 I paid for the McMaster Carr sample pack.

Oh yes, you are correct it was £ not $ Sorry.
£9 and £7 for shipping. After conversion to USD the total for the 4 sheets was US$25.00
I only ordered 2 sheets. Buy 2 get one free and they gave me an extra sheet just because I'm so cool.
( or perhaps it was because they had a left over sheet)
 
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Krythis

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I'm still trying to figure out this mesh type thing. Going by the mesh table Raidy provided this would be description would be #325 right?


Description: 304 Stainless Steel Wire Cloth Type: Wire Cloth Width: 12 Length: 12 Material: Stainless Steel Wire Diameter: 0.0014 Mesh per Linear Inch: 325x325 Width Opening: 0.0017 In.
Type: Wire Cloth
Material: Stainless Steel
Material Grade: 304
Wire Diameter: 0.0014
Mesh per Linear Inch: 325x325
Width Opening (Decimal Inch): .0017"
 

Willriker

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Thanks Raidy, I'll try a few more iterations while "working" tomorrow lol After playing tonight and looking how the steam train guys use the mesh the big hole seems to be a problem. It looks like there needs to be some space between the layers for it to work correctly, or a really small hole. Like I mentioned earlier with zero space between layers and a big 2mm hole in the middle the liquid barely wicked up 5mm, but rolling it even tighter to less than 1mm hole, the liquid wicked up 20mm. A longer tube and with some space between layers and no bif hole seems the best bet.

There is something that i could not get from reading, (since you are actively tinkering around with it) i hope you could clarify it for me. When you are rolling your wick, the tighter you make it, the higher the fluid will be within the capillary. The way i understand how a capillary works is that intermolecular forces will pull the fluid up until there is enough mass in the capillary that gravity will pull down with the same amount of force that the intermolecular forced are exerting. I can look up formula's to describe how high i should expect the fluid in the capillary to be. But, i am running into an issue with understanding.

So, here is what i was asking, you mention that you have gotten the fluid to 20mm in hight up the capillary. What happens if you had the same cross-section of the wick, expect 20 mm in hight of fluid, but the wick was only 10 mm long? Would the fluid stop at the top of the capillary, or would the fluid go all over the place?

After researching this question, i do believe it would stop at the top of the capillary. Furthermore, i would think that even if you turned the unit upside down, it would still take a good shake to get any to leak out. However, i was hoping you might be able to verify this. The reason behind me asking is that if it stops at the top of the capillary (no matter what), there isnt much harm in making the wick pretty darn tight. It would actually be a positive thing because when the fluid runs low in your tank, you would still saturate the wick all the way up to the kanthal. And if the tank was full, the fluid wouldnt flow out of the top of the capillary either. It would be a win win.

I have read through every post in this thread and i have not been able to find this answer.
 
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