Negatory, I have contacted countless vendors, half wouldn't answer back the other half couldn't do it.
AMP Tank...AMP Tank...AMP Tank
- Thread starter CharlieBrown
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A thicker glass tube would protrude beyond the top and bottom caps. That would make it highly vulnerable to chipping which easily leads to cracking. It might be worth checking with a machinist to see if they could make a stainless sleeve with a small window opening to cover the glass.
Putting a groove inside at the bottom of a stainless tube to fit where the base screws together should accommodate an o-ring to hold the sleeve fairly securely. Another groove for a thin o-ring at the top should stop any wobbling of the sleeve.
I have been getting an E1 error quite a bit on my Provari lately and it seems the threads have been turning harder into my attys. Is naolox something I can use on the Amp tank or is there something better to make the threads turn easier. Or could it be something else that's causing the E1 error? Sometimes if I move the bottom pin on the amp tank the error will go away. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions, thanks!
"no aluminum oxide" as you probably know, is a little abrasive. When it dries it can get dry and crumbly. The stainless steel of the provari will not oxidize, and the threads of the device are not likely to either. The most likely culprit is the positive post of the provari's 510 connection because that is brass. What can also oxidize is stuff that is sitting on the surface of the connections. Try dipping a q tip in alcohol and cleaning the 510 connections, then clean the battery cap threads. You can clean the battery cap and tube threads with a brass brush, like what you use to clean the barrel of a pistol. Also use an alcohol q tip on the positive terminal on the circuit board, inside the provari. If the 510 connection is still dirty, or the brass center pin does not look like a bright yellow brass color, ball up some steel wool up and spin it back and forth in the connection. You can also use the steel wool on the battery threads, but if it is dirty down there and the cap doesn't screw on buttery smooth, put noalox on the threads, then screw the cap on and off several times with pushing and then pulling ptessure, then clean off the noalox otherwise it can create a fine dust on the inside of you display window. I would not recommend using noalox on any device or 510 connection where you breath in air through, you don't want a fine metal dust going into your devices and ejuices. For the most part, just do what you have to to get the brass center pin looking like brass, and not really dark. Also, I noticed the battery caps on mine really need to be tightened down well, otherwise the provari wines, meaning the ground connection is loose. You can also stretch the battery spring out a bit to make a good connection, and abrade your battery connections in the batteries themselves, with steel wool or something. The alcohol and battery spring stretching are both straight out of the provari manual. This may sound like a stupid question, but are you sure you aren't exceeding the amp limit? If u turn my 2ohm atty up to six volts, it won't fire, I'll get E1 and E2. Good luck, I'll keep an eye on this thread.
Sorry, forgot to say, if the threads on the 510 are tight even after cleaning and with different attys, then you can use the noalox and work the threads, but clean it off really well before vaping. Look close to see if anything is stripping or cross threading.
Dumb question - rubbing alcohol? In my whole time vaping I have never ever cleaned a connection, thus that may be why I am having a problem. I read another post somewhere I believe that said the o-ring in the connection was degrading. I don't know what size or where to order one, though.
I think I figured out what the problem is. The o-ring in the bottom portion of the amp tank is loose. I tried to push it back in, now it's erroring even worse. Hmm, has anyone replaced that o-ring and how do you get it to stick in there?
I've not replaced the o-ring on mine but you might want to see if you can find one at the hardware store that might work. It would also probably be a good idea to put in a trouble ticket with Avid. They have always been both very helpful and prompt with replies whenever I've had any questions.
Funny you mentioned that. I was talking to Harry from IBTanked and gave him the dimensions to the AMP Tank's glass. He'll have some cut for the AMP shortly and it'll be cheaper than custom cut (which you can get now if you're impatient).
Friend of mine asked me if a Diver would work in an AMP Tank. Anyone have any idea? Anyone ever tried it?
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