and now... The Puck... Cheap Parts and Easy

[ancient puffer]

Man, haven't been able to get up the gumption to actually mod lately; but I just noticed that the JB Weld I used to secure the atty connector in my Puck has cracked. My Cheapo Gummy Tank is tilted and looks like the Leaning Tower of Pisa . I just gotta fix this tonight...although I could just use my touch switch Puck....or...nah, better fix it.

That's the REAL beauty of the puck's design (thank you again, Mr. Puck). You actually *can* fix it. Worst case is a run to Radio Shack, or Walmart and you're good to go. Try that with a $200, purchased from someone else, mod.

 

[DaveP]

I have 4 of the Rayovac AA NIMH 15 minute charge batteries that I bought for a digital camera. Standard AA alkalines last about 50 pictures and the 15 minute AA NIMH batts last for hundreds of pictures. The NIMH AA are 2000mah batteries.

I use two AAA NIMH batteries in my Nady UB-3 guitar wireless transmitter and I get 4-5 hours of use from one charge. I don't know why they didn't use AA in that device. I used to get 35-40 hours out of AA alkalines in my old one, but it was on one of the VHF frequencies that the FCC sold to Verizon, so I had to change to a new UHF model.

I agree that AA NIMH would be a good, long vaping power source. I have found the 15 minute models to be all you could ask for.

 

[KAC_fenris]

I just bought a rapid charger for my batts. Now I don't need to wait almost the whole day for a set of AAA's to be fully charged.

Plus, it's pretty useful as my Canon S5IS runs on normal AA batts so I'm basically "charging" two birds with one stone - my AAA e-cig batts and my AA camera batts.

 

[Stosh]

Reading through Battery University, the difference in using a fast charger or slow charger is in the life span of your battery set. That is how many time it will be able to be recharged, and with the low cost of NiMH batteries it's not much of a concern.

If you only get 1,000 charges instead of 1,250, and have to spend $10, not a great loss....

 

[KAC_fenris]

Well, that's a relief. At least the charger came with 4 AA's which I can use for my camera.

OT: that's what I love about the Canon S5IS, it's a prosumer cam that uses 4 AA batts. It's so easy to buy batteries for it.

This is what I got... PowerBase Ind. (HK) Ltd.

It's actually classified as a Quick Charger rather than a Rapid Charger. But it charges my batts in less than an hour. Probably because the batts still have some juice left in 'em.

What I like about it is I can use it in the car... so I don't need to worry about running out of batts when on the road.

 

[KAC_fenris]

How long does a 1000mah NiMh AAA battery usually last?

Also, is it true that a PV with a low-resistance atty will lose its battery charge quicker than one using a regular resistance atty?

 

[ancient puffer]

How long does a 1000mah NiMh AAA battery usually last?

Also, is it true that a PV with a low-resistance atty will lose its battery charge quicker than one using a regular resistance atty?

How long a given battery lasts depends on how much you use it, so I can't say on that one. As for the LR vs SR atty question, yes, an LR atty produces higher wattage, so it will "use up" the battery charge noticably faster. But it also gives a "warmer" vape, and more vapor. It's a trade off.

 

[TomCatt]

With four 1000mah AAA NiMH batteries and a 3.2ohm clearomizer; my Puck usually starts out at ~4.7V (loaded) and ~10-12 hours and 2 - 3mL of juice later it's down to around 4 - 4.2V; at which point I put in fresh batts. I could continue vaping with those batts; but the taste and warmth are dropping off, although there is still plenty of vapor being generated.

 

[KAC_fenris]

AAA's usually have a limit of 1000mah, right?

Too bad they can't go up to 2000mah like they're AA brothers.

 

[TomCatt]

Yeah, 1000mah appears to be the upper limit on the AAAs. I've seen AAAs labeled as, like, 1200mah or something greater than 1000 on Amazon or eBay; but I don't quite believe it.

A number of people here have built AA Pucks. The price is pretty much, if not exactly the same, for NiMH AAs as the NiMH AAAs; so the only difference will be the size and the longevity between charges. I believe AAs go multiple days before needing recharged.

 

[KAC_fenris]

Although I took inspiration from the puck in my mod, I'm not really a fan of box mods. I'm used the puck's design for my flashlight mod. Too bad I cannot fit AA's in my mod.

Although I assume a box mod is much easier to make than a tube mod. It looks easier to take apart. Hehe.

 

[visitlynn]

Would a 9.5mm High Tact Switch work on The Puck?

 

[KAC_fenris]

After replacing my switch to a tact switch and finally getting hold of a rapid charger, I've noticed that vaping using a 510LR became quite harsh. Tried my 306reg atty, but somehow that atty doesn't wanna cooperate. It produces way too little vapor... dunno why.

After testing the 306 with the passthru I made, The Winston Passthru, and still having so little vapor, I decided to just use the 510LR.

In order to not get that hard-hitting taste in my throat, I had to remove one batt and vape at 3.6v instead. For some reason, it produces more vapor than when I was vaping at 4.8v...

 

[addisdaddy07]

4.8v is kind of (really) a high voltage for a Low Resistance atomizer. To put it roughly, It would be like throwing a regular(2.6-3.0 ohm) atty on a 7.2 v device, lots of heat, harsh flavor, huge throat hit (probably bad tasting) and little vapor. The point of a LR atty is to "simulate" Higher voltage vaping at lower voltages, so, 3.6 is right where you need to be!

 

[KAC_fenris]

I really need to go back to the store and get my 306 atty replaced. It's really not producing much vapor...

 

[visitlynn]

Thanks for your reply KAC_fenris. The tact switch was kinda harsh but fun too. I do like the feel of the tact switch. I'll monkey around with it a bit longer and check out vaping with three batteries. Great Winston mod!!

 

[visitlynn]

4.8v is kind of (really) a high voltage for a Low Resistance atomizer. To put it roughly, It would be like throwing a regular(2.6-3.0 ohm) atty on a 7.2 v device, lots of heat, harsh flavor, huge throat hit (probably bad tasting) and little vapor. The point of a LR atty is to "simulate" Higher voltage vaping at lower voltages, so, 3.6 is right where you need to be!

addisdaddy07 ~ Thank you for the info!

 

[KAC_fenris]

The beauty of the Lightsabre is I can add batts. I can go 3.6v, 4.8v, 6v and even 7.2v... Since the basic principle behind my mod is based on the puck (4 batts giving 4.8v), I thought I'd just post it here.

I'm really getting confused what config to use...

Vaping on 4.8v + 510LR atty = very nice as long as you rest it after 2 long drags, more than that and you get a harsh flavor. Plus, the atty gets verrrryyyy hot to the touch!

Vaping on 3.6v + 510LR atty = not much vapor, you can chain-vape but I have to drag on it longer to satisfy me. Atty doesn't get hot that easily...

Vaping on 4.8v + 306 reg atty = very little vapor and very disappointing (I think the atty is sub-standard)

Vaping on 6v + 306 reg atty = vapor production is better compared to before, but the atty spits! I can only put in 2 drops, if I put 3, the atty spits and I get some juice on my mouth! Good thing I was testing using some 0mg nic.

The 2 configs that are most satisfying (vapor, taste and TH) are the 4.8v + 510LR and 6v + 306. My dilemma is, do I return the 306 and have it replaced or do I just use it for 6v vaping?

 

[ancient puffer]

Grab an adapter and give a 901 a shot. It's a personal preference, but some folks think they can't be beat.

For me, you can't beat a 901 at around 3.0 ohms (at 4.8v)

 

[Stosh]

+1 on trying the 901, maybe order an 801 at the same time...
they tend to be higher resistance and you might like it at 6v