Another “first mech” thread

[escapetovape]

Hi guys,

Had a look through some of the forum threads regarding the first tube mech mod purchase and now here’s mine.

So I’ve gotten some experience in building my coils, wrapping my batteries and figuring out what we’re my mistakes and what we’re not (busted wismec predator made me scratch a bald spot on my head only to realise it was the mod not the coils). I’ve got a squonker that i love (Vandy vape pulse bf) but tubes is something I’d want to try.

So when I’m listing out my requirements, I’d like to actually try one and see how I go, but not break the bank to do so.

As far as requirements;

- I prefer to stick with 18650 compatible mods

- reliable, I get that a lot of the features make the mod unique and possibly better, but really I need something that isn’t an overly complex build as far as the button. The El Thunder had what I would call I simpler button whereas the Sub Zero with some warranty void clause on modifying/opening the button mechanism would be an example of a more complex button (not to mention the clutch action).

- good punch

- clean lines, I’d have to say that while Death Wish Modz make some cool gear I prefer ones that aren’t so busy in the design, the Vapourz Cloud/Asylum Modz Nato is a good example

- suits 24mm RDA (I got a Drop and I’m fricken loving it right now and want to keep using it)

- when I say budget as far as price I’d like to pay no more than $100 for it, I don’t think I’d appreciate a high end tube mod at the moment.

- if there’s a mod that comes with an RDA as far as a kit I’d be happy to consider ones like that too, ultimately I’m after the mod.

- Hybrid connection not too fussed on but would make it work with the Bonza RDA

Speaking of which are 2nd hand mods a thing? I was looking at Vape Trader and it seemed to be a little quiet, other than that where would people suggest going to get their mods from? Australia have suppliers but there’s a lot of products “out of stock” or quite simply non existent so any suggestions in that area would be very much appreciated. Thanks guys looking forward to learning more.

 

[mimöschen]

$31.79 (Free Shipping) Kindbright Nato Styled Mechanical Mod + Culverin Styled RDA Atomizer Kit (SS, w/ Culverin, Gun Metal (Kindbright)) at m.FastTech.com

 

[escapetovape]

$31.79 (Free Shipping) Kindbright Nato Styled Mechanical Mod + Culverin Styled RDA Atomizer Kit (SS, w/ Culverin, Gun Metal (Kindbright)) at m.FastTech.com

I actually saw that, I read on one of the other threads regarding first tube mech that knockoffs should be avoided, is that one a good copy? I got a little hesitant at buying a copy just in case it wasn’t up to par.

 

[mimöschen]

At least Kindbright is known to build quite good clones.
So far I'm pleased with their releases, but I don't own the Nato, so I can't comment on that.

 

[Winblows]

Hi guys,

Had a look through some of the forum threads regarding the first tube mech mod purchase and now here’s mine.

So I’ve gotten some experience in building my coils, wrapping my batteries and figuring out what we’re my mistakes and what we’re not (busted wismec predator made me scratch a bald spot on my head only to realise it was the mod not the coils). I’ve got a squonker that i love (Vandy vape pulse bf) but tubes is something I’d want to try.

So when I’m listing out my requirements, I’d like to actually try one and see how I go, but not break the bank to do so.

As far as requirements;

- I prefer to stick with 18650 compatible mods

- reliable, I get that a lot of the features make the mod unique and possibly better, but really I need something that isn’t an overly complex build as far as the button. The El Thunder had what I would call I simpler button whereas the Sub Zero with some warranty void clause on modifying/opening the button mechanism would be an example of a more complex button (not to mention the clutch action).

- good punch

- clean lines, I’d have to say that while Death Wish Modz make some cool gear I prefer ones that aren’t so busy in the design, the Vapourz Cloud/Asylum Modz Nato is a good example

- suits 24mm RDA (I got a Drop and I’m fricken loving it right now and want to keep using it)

- when I say budget as far as price I’d like to pay no more than $100 for it, I don’t think I’d appreciate a high end tube mod at the moment.

- if there’s a mod that comes with an RDA as far as a kit I’d be happy to consider ones like that too, ultimately I’m after the mod.

- Hybrid connection not too fussed on but would make it work with the Bonza RDA

Speaking of which are 2nd hand mods a thing? I was looking at Vape Trader and it seemed to be a little quiet, other than that where would people suggest going to get their mods from? Australia have suppliers but there’s a lot of products “out of stock” or quite simply non existent so any suggestions in that area would be very much appreciated. Thanks guys looking forward to learning more.

Looks for me, that you forgot one important security requirement - the vent holes.
It's a must in an emergency situation.
A VGOD Pro is a good choice.

 

[escapetovape]

Looks for me, that you forgot one important security requirement - the vent holes.
It's a must in an emergency situation.
A VGOD Pro is a good choice.

Good point, and I’ll be totally honest I wrote it as an assumption rather than a requirement - so serves me right for that. Yes vent holes are a must; if I die by a phallic-shaped device I lose a bet.

 

[somdcomputerguy]

I have a Sir Lancelot 'Lance' mech tube. Single battery, will use 18650, 18549/550, 18350. Has 2 vent holes. Bottom 'fire' button and a reverse threaded locking ring. I love it.

 

[stols001]

If you want to go for a mech with training wheels so to speak, I won my first mech an Armor Wismec kit with a Ephor Panther RDA. It does take a 2700 battery but has an adaptor for an 18650. I was really happy to win it and loved the vape and was glad to start with a mech with some safety built in.

My son also loved it, so I let him leave with it (along with some stern safety lectures) but I believe he will be just fine. I loved it enough to immediately purchase my replacement!

However, please take that for what it's worth, it was the first mech I vaped. I was SUPER pleased with it but it is ALSO the first mech I've vaped.

It did make me feel a TON more confident about vaping the other two (unprotected) mechs I have sitting around waiting for the vacopalypse. I will probably vape them before that time because I really enjoyed the vape.

Also, protected or not, I doubt I would EVER take one out of the house. I was quite shocked to enjoy dripping, but I am betting I will do it in the evenings while watching TV and whatnot, etc.

Anna

 

[Outcast]

There is a lot of good Facebook pages for used mechs good deals and seeing the owner of Armageddon is a scum bag them mods are going cheap but when u lie and ur mods are made in China and u beat ur wife I guess that can happen


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[Baditude]

...you forgot one important security requirement - the vent holes.
It's a must in an emergency situation.

Good point, and I’ll be totally honest I wrote it as an assumption rather than a requirement - so serves me right for that. Yes vent holes are a must; if I die by a phallic-shaped device I lose a bet.

Vent holes are the FIRST thing I look for in a mech. It's your first line of defense against your enclosed metal tube from becoming a pipe bomb in case a battery vents.

We can perform safe battery practices until the cows come home, but it only takes 1 careless moment to potentially change our face or hand forever. Don't become this poor guy. First vape related death

Ideally, vent holes should be located near the top of the mod. Because batteries are designed to vent gas from under the positive contact of the battery, that's where the gas will accumulate first. Batteries have been known to swell in girth and size when they vent/explode, so if the battery blocks the air passage to a vent hole located near/around the bottom of the tube, the tube is essentually an enclosed tube with the accumulating gas having no where to go. Something's got to give, and its usually the top of the mod that blows off.

Look for my post on mech mod safe designs here:
Recomend a good first mech?

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

 

[bwh79]

Considered the Broadside mech? (there are clones available)

- 18650, check
- clean lines, check
- suits 24mm RDA, check (I think it's actually 25mm diameter, but a .5mm "underhang" is hardly noticeable.)
- it has a "clutch-style" switch but it's actually a really simple mechanism.
- pinned, NON-HYBRID 510 connection (safer)
- insulating sleeve protects the battery (safer)
- vent holes in the switch, designed to have the battery inserted positive-down (safer when allowed, and allowed here because the insulating sleeve)
- how "hard" it hits will depend on how well you keep it maintained. Mechs are not maintenance-free. You'll want to regularly clean and polish threads and contact points, on any mech mod.

 

[Outcast]

Yup someone used a tank on a hybrid


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[escapetovape]

Vent holes are the FIRST thing I look for in a mech. It's your first line of defense against your enclosed metal tube from becoming a pipe bomb in case a battery vents.

We can perform safe battery practices until the cows come home, but it only takes 1 careless moment to potentially change our face or hand forever. Don't become this poor guy. First vape related death

Ideally, vent holes should be located near the top of the mod. Because batteries are designed to vent gas from under the positive contact of the battery, that's where the gas will accumulate first. Batteries have been known to swell in girth and size when they vent/explode, so if the battery blocks the air passage to a vent hole located near/around the bottom of the tube, the tube is essentually an enclosed tube with the accumulating gas having no where to go. Something's got to give, and its usually the top of the mod that blows off.

Look for my post on mech mod safe designs here:
Recomend a good first mech?

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

Jeebus.......that’s a rough way to go. I didn’t think vent holes at the top were a safer alternative, but I was thinking about the direction the gas goes (in your face is where I’d avoid, downward seems more manageable).

When they talk about batteries doing that sort of thing is it a case of age/poor wrapping or is it a user related thing? Every time I’ve looked (not very hard, mind you) it seems to be focused on bad wrapping/broken wrapping or dodgy/old batteries. I remember watching a safety vid on tube mechs where they talked about batteries getting too hot while someone is chain vaping, so it starts getting warm, and the user carries on which causes the failure event.

 

[mintymints]

not a lot wrong with the noisy cricket, ive been using the nc v2 for a couple of years now. i vape it in series with a sensible build and never had a problem, it all about common sense imho

 

[Baditude]

Jeebus.......that’s a rough way to go. I didn’t think vent holes at the top were a safer alternative, but I was thinking about the direction the gas goes (in your face is where I’d avoid, downward seems more manageable).

When they talk about batteries doing that sort of thing is it a case of age/poor wrapping or is it a user related thing? Every time I’ve looked (not very hard, mind you) it seems to be focused on bad wrapping/broken wrapping or dodgy/old batteries. I remember watching a safety vid on tube mechs where they talked about batteries getting too hot while someone is chain vaping, so it starts getting warm, and the user carries on which causes the failure event.

Anything that can cause a battery to short circuit can lead to a simple venting of gas up to a catastrophic fire ball or explosion.

Venting and Thermal Runaway of a Battery

• A coil short can lead to battery failure.
• Torn wraps or tiny holes in the insulator wrap. Missing insulator ring at the top of the battery.
• Dented top or bottom of the battery could mean internal damage to the battery.
• Unintended extended compression of the fire button can cause over-discharge of the battery. Locking fire button or recessed fire button needed if you transport your mech in a pocket or purse.
• Using an inappropiate juice attachment (one without an extended center pin) on a direct battery/hybrid-top mechanical mod can cause a battery to hard short.
• A battery should never feel hot. Usually means a stressed out or abused/misused battery.
• Batteries lose their capacity and amp rating as they age, or when misused/abused. Your 20 amp battery becomes a 10 amp battery.

 

[Ben85]

not a lot wrong with the noisy cricket, ive been using the nc v2 for a couple of years now. i vape it in series with a sensible build and never had a problem, it all about common sense imho

Not a tube or a mech, so doesn’t fit the bill.

Broadside is a nice tube. Switch mods V2 is about as solid and as basic as they come. It’s the only tube in my collection that I’d even consider using nowadays.

 

[untar]

I was thinking about the direction the gas goes (in your face is where I’d avoid, downward seems more manageable)

Vent holes at the top will let the gases escape perpendicular to the sides of the mod so it's not blowing them in your face. On the other hand a vent hole in the bottom switch will vent gases along the main axis and make something that's awfully near how a rocket works. In that case the gases won't get in your face but the mod sure will.

The vent holes should be near the positive (like baditude already pointed out), if the mod is designed to have positive up then on top otherwise on the bottom. You can't trust the gases to vent past the body of an out of control cell, then you don't even have a rocket but a frag grenade.

Short circuits, poor wraps, expired/damaged(both externally and internally) batteries, overcharging and heat all can trigger venting or violent venting events. "Can" doesn't mean "absolutely and reliably will" but if you don't want to gamble you'd better avoid those.

 

[escapetovape]

Anything that can cause a battery to short circuit can lead to a simple venting of gas up to a catastrophic fire ball or explosion.

Venting and Thermal Runaway of a Battery

• A coil short can lead to battery failure.
• Torn wraps or tiny holes in the insulator wrap. Missing insulator ring at the top of the battery.
• Dented top or bottom of the battery could mean internal damage to the battery.
• Unintended extended compression of the fire button can cause over-discharge of the battery. Locking fire button or recessed fire button needed if you transport your mech in a pocket or purse.
• A battery should never feel hot. Usually means a stressed out or abused/misused battery.
• Batteries lose their capacity and amp rating as they age, or when misused/abused. Your 20 amp battery becomes a 10 amp battery.

....inb4 cigarettes sound safer

Thanks for that, I’m at work now so I’ll be going over that vid tonight. I’m pretty confident that my batteries are in as decent condition as can be expected. I use a proper charger, not try and charge in the unit, I make sure the wraps are intact and transport them in segregated casing (so they don’t rattle against each other). But still after reading through what you said I don’t think it’s going to count for much.

 

[lupinehorror]

tube mechs.
got two ice spiders, geekvape tsunami v2, nato clone, smpl clone, a wismec machina somethingorother to name but a few. mix of hybrid and 510.
were i to recommend one right now it'd be an ice spider. comes with a 510 for 20700 and another for 18650s. good heft and lovely fire button. 4 finishes (a have brass and a copper version) and are keenly priced.
there's so much variety now and excellent value for money if you do your research.
best of luck.

 

[Shawn Hoefer]

Another vote for either the NATO or the Broadside (and Admiral).

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