Love my AGA-T, but I will love it more if I can find a solution to get the airhole to line up with the wick. As of now, Im just unscrewing it an 1/8th of a turn or so to get it to line up but id like the topcap to screw all the way down and line up. Has anyone found a solution to this? thanks!
Any good solutions for AGA-T RBA hole line up?
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The o ring on the AGA-T seems to be thick enough that backing off on the cap doesn't result in any leakage or loss of vapor. My experience anyway.
yes, i agree but still there has to be a way to get that sucker snug and lined up.
It would be nice, but even if it were a perfectly designed device, which the AGA-T isn't, it would be tough. It's a dual purpose unit; intended to be used with either ss mesh wicks or fiber wicks. Depending which method is used, the air hole would have to be in a different place.
Sand the top down. You can remove enough material to adjust it however you want it.
What I do on my Genesis' with threaded tops is to add an extra o-ring. That way you can crank it down until the hole is just where you want it and it will stay in place. The second o-ring seems to hold things pretty well.
if the airhole passes the wick less than 1/4 turn:
thicker o-ring if can be found, or
remove the o-ring, warp some (a thin o-ring, teflon tape, ...) in that groove, then put the o-ring back.
otherwise, file it.
it took me 10min with flat metal files (second cut, then smooth) to finish a cap that's 1/2 turn out << i did 3 of those.
thicker o-ring if can be found, or
remove the o-ring, warp some (a thin o-ring, teflon tape, ...) in that groove, then put the o-ring back.
otherwise, file it.
it took me 10min with flat metal files (second cut, then smooth) to finish a cap that's 1/2 turn out << i did 3 of those.
I would just keep it the way it is, so long as it's working. Sanding is gonna be tough, because it's some decent steel; Filing it might work better, I don't know for sure- but that's what I used on the tank section of another RBA, and it did the job. although, that was plastic, so who knows what it would do to the AGA.
I can say that without lubrication, it melted two of my drill bits while boring it out- and it STILL needs to be bored through, lol!
Turn your drill down to its slowest speed, and even then you don't need to squeeze the trigger past half way to three quarters. Then put all the pressure you can behind the bit (without making it bend). Its basically impossible to drill stainless unless you go slow and forceful. doing it this way with other metals isn't required, but it will make your bits last longer. Spit does work well as lube if you see the flakes turning blue or other colors, but the key is to slow down to go fast.
As for filling it down, be very careful to clean every last flake of shaved material out before test fitting because a little piece of stainless caught between the threads could muck up your threads our even lock the pieces together where it'll be a b!#@% to back your top cap off.
You can also lift the plastic tube up a little without any leaking. This will let you adjust where the cap sits. I have been doing this with mine, and it works perfectly with no leaking. You could also add a very thin rubber/silicone washer to the bottom of the tank to close any gap.
I cant seem to line up my air hole at all with the wick. It's always at least a 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn away.. Is that normal? Only think I can think of is getting a bigger o ring. Anymore suggestions? I havent actually built the wick yet so I'm not sure if it even matter where the cap air hole is.
To make sure the O-ring is sealing, cover the air hole with your finger when it is lined up with the wick hole, and try taking a drag. If you get any airflow at all, then you have an issue- if not, then the cap is sealed and you have nothing to worry about.
The next revision will have a pop-top cap instead of threads.
The next revision will have a pop-top cap instead of threads.
Thanks Ninja - I dont have a coil in there yet as I am waiting my supplies. But I see people talking about making sure that the air hole is lined up with the wick & Im not sure why that matters as most of the vapor with be traveling through the drip tip / mouthpiece as you inhale. When I plug the air hole there doesnt seem to be any air leaking through the gasket or anywhere else.
I ordered an AGA-T from VaporCigzz and emailed them regarding a post they made on FB ("For those of you inquiring about the AGA-T change. Yes they are now polished! Check out the newest picture of the AGA-T!!"). In the email they say that it has an improved o-ring ("Yes you will be getting the new and improved tank as shown in the picture 
- The O-ring placement is different the tank itself is still the same. The O-ring and finish are the differences now ").
Item description doesn't give much info.
It'll be here Saturday I think though so if I see any major differences I'll up some pictures.
- The O-ring placement is different the tank itself is still the same. The O-ring and finish are the differences now "). Item description doesn't give much info.
It'll be here Saturday I think though so if I see any major differences I'll up some pictures.
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I wished I had found this thread before drilling a second hole. Some smart suggestions here. SS is tough to drill. I used a 1/16" cold forged bit and the fastest speed my drill would do. It still took a while taking breaks every few seconds to let it cool and wipe way shavings. Remember to punch the spot you want to drill. I plugged the original hole with a toothpick and cut it flush.
dgreen, you need the incoming air to hit the wick/coil or the taste is going to be very harsh. You need airflow for good vapor production too.
dgreen, you need the incoming air to hit the wick/coil or the taste is going to be very harsh. You need airflow for good vapor production too.
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Stainless steel should actually be drilled at slower speed. High speed will burn up a drill bit in a hurry.
Yup just me being impatient. The forged bit faired well though. I bought extra bits but didn't need them.
I've gone through, oh, at least 2 1/16 bits because of not doing this. lol. I would run the bits down to teeny little nubs...
There are a couple versions of the AGA-T. The first ones have real thick top caps. Those are the ones I have. I enlarged the original holes in mine to 1/16".
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