Anybody else have twisted wire melt into top plastic?

[Repent]

I can see where there are "melt marks" in the plastic at the top of the wire/wick slits on both sides of the top plastic. Wondering if anyone else is getting this?

When I went to change the coil/wick today one side of the twisted wires came out of the slit freely but the other side was stuck in the plastic, having melted into it a little bit. I had made extra sure that there was no R/wire hanging out of the ceramic. When I cleaned it last the R/NR wire placement still looked good. When I took it apart I just happened to start on the "good" side and so pulled the wire out of the ceramic and then found it was stuck in the plastic on the other side. I do know that at the point where the melt occurred it was almost exactly halfway in the middle of the twist of the R/NR wire.

Looks like I'm only a few more episodes of wire melting into plastic before the top plastic will fail completely because there will be enough erosion of the plastic between the top of the slit and the outer diameter of the ceramic hole. That space is only about 2mm thick.

I thought we were pretty safe as far as heat goes once we hit the wire twist of the R/NR wire much less at its halfway point?

Obviously going to monitor this very closely. Hoping COV gets them in stock ASAP.

 

[bacc.vap]

I just removed the first coil I installed and one side was stuck to the plastic. Pretty much at the same spot as yours. I installed a new coil, will see what happens next coil change.

 

[atavanhalen]

Thats a bummer man, I am yet to run into that problem. Something to maybe try, when wrapping the coil continue wrapping the part of the wire where the kanthal and nickel are twisted together , so the start of the nickel is wrapped around the wick and will fit inside the ceramic so there will be little chance of melting. Not sure if I made it clear what I was talking about but if not just let me know and I will explain it in another waY. good luck!

 

[Painfreak]

Thats a bummer man, I am yet to run into that problem. Something to maybe try, when wrapping the coil continue wrapping the part of the wire where the kanthal and nickel are twisted together , so the start of the nickel is wrapped around the wick and will fit inside the ceramic so there will be little chance of melting. Not sure if I made it clear what I was talking about but if not just let me know and I will explain it in another waY. good luck!

+1...... I did the same way as you mentioned and so far no wire melt into the plastic.

 

[Titan Vapes]

Did you notice any type of flavor difference when it was melting the plastic? wondering if this happened over a while or from just one use.

 

[Repent]

Thats a bummer man, I am yet to run into that problem. Something to maybe try, when wrapping the coil continue wrapping the part of the wire where the kanthal and nickel are twisted together , so the start of the nickel is wrapped around the wick and will fit inside the ceramic so there will be little chance of melting. Not sure if I made it clear what I was talking about but if not just let me know and I will explain it in another waY. good luck!

I know exactly what you mean and in fact that's what I have been doing.

As I've pondered this more, I wonder if doing dry burns is exacerbating the problem, in that, with the absence of juice to act as a cooling agent, the wire in the twist is getting hot enough to melt into the plastic. I can say beyond a shadow of a doubt that the melting happened in the middle of the wire twist. I also know that I typically take a 4 second hit off the iAtty, sometimes 5-6 of those in a row, then typically set it down for 5-10 minutes. When doing dry burns I go much longer of course to burn off all the gunk, then shorter blasts to finish off. I typically use 3.7-4.0v on my Provari.

I can tell you that when making your own coils it's nice to have a mod that has built-in short protection. I put a new coil on today and kept getting an "E1" error which means there is a short. Took it off and tinkered and after four more times of getting the E1 error I just tossed the coil and made a new one. Came in at 2.3 oHms. Perfect for me. That could have cost me 4 fuses/springs on a non-protected device.

Hopefully Imeo will incorporate such a feature and more into the VV device he is creating. If he could take the feature set from the Provari and the Darwin, mash them together and remove the redundant pieces, that would be an awesome VV IMHO.

I do know that after I buildup the iAtty I'll be doing it's first test on the Provari before putting it on my SSGGTS that I'm getting in the mail tomorrow. Horray!!.

 

[fright88]

I am wondering if using the crimp tool will help eliminate this problem

 

[bacc.vap]

Did you notice any type of flavor difference when it was melting the plastic? wondering if this happened over a while or from just one use.

In my case, now that I think about it, my initial plan was to save the coil I had installed so I cleaned with warm water and then a dry burn. It might have occurred during the dry burn.

 

[Poppa D]

Yes mine has done that. I try to make sure the twisted resistance wire is as short as possible.
If you keep wrapping it around the wick its possible it could make contact with your coil and change the resistance.

 

[Repent]

Did you notice any type of flavor difference when it was melting the plastic? wondering if this happened over a while or from just one use.

Not just from one use. Cannot say I tasted melting plastic. Got some dry hits but opening the cone a little at a time as I vape through a tank remedies that problem. There have been times when the wire twist stuck to the plastic and a small piece of the resistance wire was outside the ceramic. These last two times however, I had made sure that I wrapped half of the R/NR wire around the wick so that when it comes out of the ceramic it is only twisted wire coming out.

Wasn't really too worried because I figured I'd just buy another top plastic until I saw there were none for sale.

I should reiterate that all the times I've had the wire melt into the plastic always involved the wire twist. Never has the R/wire alone touched the plastic.

Still, the iAtty has become my goto atty.

 

[Repent]

I am wondering if using the crimp tool will help eliminate this problem

Expound your thoughts on this Fright.....

 

[Poppa D]

I bought the crimp tool and beads, but they only sent the tool, no beads, argh. They refunded the money, I would have liked knowing they were out of beads while I was ordering instead of when I got the package.

 

[Repent]

I bought the crimp tool and beads, but they only sent the tool, no beads, argh. They refunded the money, I would have liked knowing they were out of beads while I was ordering instead of when I got the package.

No doubt! What use is the tool to you without beads?

 

[fright88]

Expound your thoughts on this Fright.....

Well if the melting is being caused by dry burning I don't think it will help much however if it is being caused by a slight amount of r wire laying on the plastic the crimp beads/tool should allow all of the R wire to be kept inside the ceramic cup.

 

[NandyDC]

I bought the crimp tool and beads, but they only sent the tool, no beads, argh. They refunded the money, I would have liked knowing they were out of beads while I was ordering instead of when I got the package.

LOL, maybe I have your beads or you have my tools because I have the beads but no tools

I just realize I bought both things from different vendors so Im still waiting for the tool to arrive, maybe today.

 

[Poppa D]

Please post more links, I need the beads. I wear trifocals and finding that tiny wire is a migraine.

LOL, maybe I have your beads or you have my tools because I have the beads but no tools

I just realize I bought both things from different vendors so Im still waiting for the tool to arrive, maybe today.

 

[fright88]

Please post more links, I need the beads. I wear trifocals and finding that tiny wire is a migraine.

Anyone know if Sterling Silver will work? Is fo Hobby Lobby sells 1mm sterling silver crimp beads.

 

[Para]

Anyone know if Sterling Silver will work? Is fo Hobby Lobby sells 1mm sterling silver crimp beads.

Should work just fine. Sterling is .925 silver and Fine is .999.....hardly enough to make a difference in conductivity

 

[NandyDC]

Please post more links, I need the beads. I wear trifocals and finding that tiny wire is a migraine.

I got it on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TRGMUG

 

[NandyDC]

Anyone know if Sterling Silver will work? Is fo Hobby Lobby sells 1mm sterling silver crimp beads.

They must work because is what I have,