When you say coil do you mean the spring on the inside bottom of the Reo or the coil in the A7?
Anyone try the A7 RBA ?? Will it fit?
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It's the bottom center post. They wobble. I melted a spring first time on my Grand. The post on the A7 is fine on a VV REO. On the Grand I either use an adapter or insert a little strip of carto condom around the post.
Well, I tried to slip a piece of carto condom in around the center post, but couldn't get it to seat well enough to not just fall into the housing. I must need thicker material.
So as not to make the whole endeavor a waste of time, I pulled the stock coil and built one with twisted 32ga, 3 wraps, .9ohms. Just hit it with a fresh battery off the charger, and about blew the top of my head off. If my math is right - which is not something I'd ever bet on - that's 19 watts or so. POW.
So as not to make the whole endeavor a waste of time, I pulled the stock coil and built one with twisted 32ga, 3 wraps, .9ohms. Just hit it with a fresh battery off the charger, and about blew the top of my head off. If my math is right - which is not something I'd ever bet on - that's 19 watts or so. POW.
just got done modding all 6 of my A7s with Karens carto condom trick hope it helps
The bottom post is the problem for sure. It's really a design flaw. The bottom post is a bit unstable because it lacks a bushing where it protrudes from the 510 connection. As you extend the center post, you run the risk of it grounding to the case of the A7 when tightening on a device. You can easily make a bushing out of common vaping supplies.. a strip of carto condom or a strip of an old juice bottle wrapped around the center pin will fix you right up. This will insulate the center pin and keep it from grounding. I personally used a strip from an old juice bottle and it works perfect!
It seems that not all A7's are plagued with wobbly center posts. If it becomes necessary to insert a bushing, air flow will be limited and a 1mm to 1/16" air hole in the cover will resolve this.
It seems that not all A7's are plagued with wobbly center posts. If it becomes necessary to insert a bushing, air flow will be limited and a 1mm to 1/16" air hole in the cover will resolve this.
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Quigs, Can you please post a pic of your beer can mod?
i agree... when these things work, they WORK!
i agree... when these things work, they WORK!
I understand.... Just keep in mind that with a little bit of love, these things absolutely come alive! I'm not all that mechanically inclined, but I'm so glad that I stuck with it!
Absolutely...about the best I can do with my phones cam but I think you get the idea...
Same method I used to adjust the airhole on my ZAG before I sold it for enough to buy 10 of these...
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Remarkable idea Quigs! Well done.... I can throw that silly condom away now 
Absolutely...about the best I can do with my phones cam but I think you get the idea...
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Same method I used to adjust the airhole on my ZAG before I sold it for enough to buy 10 of these...
Just ten? you really took a hit on that sale
pfft...though I do miss it sometimes
...finally getting back to the ozarks of Wa. tonight...bringing my DIY juice gear, can't wait, PM ya later CyRandy, wish I could take the credit for the idea but ya, it works pretty good, especially if you're like me and swap between different types of wick/coil media and each one likes different air flow...
I found an easier way to tighten the wire posts............ Although I used a tiny wrench I ordered for the ERA/Hornet screws, any small enough object will work to tighten them. Raise the screws so that wire holes are fully open then use something like a needle or pin through the wire holes to tighten. I found this to be much easier than grasping them with needle nose pliers.
As far as insulator around center positive post (bottom at threaded part) I did one last night and found that If I cut the small condom piece to best length before inserting it was easier. Just remove the bottom center post and pinch the small condom piece and it fits right in. Any pointed object, even a tooth pick, will position it all the way. Helps to have pointy tweezers to pull it out if adjustments needed. I left about a mm gap for air to properly enter through area.
Hugs, Feisty Alice
BTW.... with the wire posts tightened down the holes are way out of line so putting wires through holes was a bit more challenging. It helped to have good tweezers, jewelers magnified hood, and good lighting.
{edit} The condom around center post might tighten up the draw too much for some people. It's fine for me but one might be able to loosen draw up a bit more by adjusting the gap left in condom.
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Is anyone having trouble putting an A-7 on a VV Woodvil? The center pin screw with steel washers under the screw head sticks out about 1/16" (with the inside assembly screwed down all the way) and there is probably just 1 screw thread engaged. I'm pretty sure it's not reaching the center pin on the VVW connector due to the bottom radius inside the catch cup due and the 14mm Dia of the A-7. The catch cup I.D. is about 14.5mm and I can see where the A-7 has scratched off the CC coating on the radius. I can put a radius on the bottom of the 14mm Dia A-7 if there is enough material. Does anyone have an easier fix for it? Can the inside radius of the CC be reduced without cutting thru it?
Seeing as I've fully committed to side air A7's/ERA's (haven't used an atty/carto in forever, nor plan to) I sanded my CC almost totally off my VVW (mines brass, it was easy) leaving just enough to hide the o ring...not for everyone sure but very do'able
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