Anyone try the A7 RBA ?? Will it fit?
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First DIY torching of SS A7. The Gold is not as orange as shown in picture. Turned out pretty well. My goal is to do a consistent solid brass color.
Hey!, that's a pretty good job!...the A7's are hard to heat tint and get a consistent colour because of the different thickness's (masses) of SS...yours looks waaay better than mine 
Hey!, that's a pretty good job!...the A7's are hard to heat tint and get a consistent colour because of the different thickness's (masses) of SS...yours looks waaay better than mine
I have several to play with. I'm going to think on some kind of packing to keep the center of cap cooled a bit while torching. Just a bit of metal polish will remove the torching so we can do them over and over. But............ overall the look is quite satisfactory. I did not much more than 30 seconds to achieve what you see.
To hold sections I just slipped them over a needle nose pliers that have heavy insulation on handles then dropped them off onto a silicon hot pad to cool.
Hugs, Feisty Alice
I found this, for what it's worth...
Colour Formed Approx Temperature C
pale yellow 290
straw yellow 340
dark yellow 370
brown 390
purple brown 420
dark purple 450
blue 540
dark blue 600
Colour Formed Approx Temperature C
pale yellow 290
straw yellow 340
dark yellow 370
brown 390
purple brown 420
dark purple 450
blue 540
dark blue 600
Wow, that's cool. Thanks for posting. I think we may be able to use this info and adjust the torch a bit. My chef's torch has an air intake adjustment. Using a metal roasting thermometer or such might be possible for some control. I do have a little beam type thermometer that might be even better if only I can find it.
Feisty Alice
I just eyballed it as I was torching and had it on a big drill bit chucked in my drill that slowly rotated (like a BBQ spit, lol)...the best results I've got are heat tinting ERA's...just because there's a fair amount of mass there and the thickness are pretty even...I got one to match the brass CC on my full Ebony VVW almost perfect...I'm not super vain with my mods but she's a pretty one now...
Pics or it didn't happen
Oops!, (yikes, you guys are hard
)...
Kinda hard to tell in the light...but it's pretty close...
Remember the old days (2011) when we just wanted to find rebuildable that would work? One that would make vapor, not leak, and not cost an arm and a leg? 
Pics or it didn't happen
hi folks
ive been poking around various pages of this thread, searching for a fix to the A7 wobbly center pin. the first solution i ran across was pinching the tube that accepts the center pin with a vice or pliers to make it just off round.
then i saw the carto condom mod/insulation idea.
which method are most folks using?
i like the carto condom method in theory. i dont mind a stiffer draw and i like the idea of my modification not being permanent just in case it doesnt work for me. i just wanted to check with you all to see if this is still a prefferred method to secure the center post.
thanks
ive been poking around various pages of this thread, searching for a fix to the A7 wobbly center pin. the first solution i ran across was pinching the tube that accepts the center pin with a vice or pliers to make it just off round.
then i saw the carto condom mod/insulation idea.
which method are most folks using?
i like the carto condom method in theory. i dont mind a stiffer draw and i like the idea of my modification not being permanent just in case it doesnt work for me. i just wanted to check with you all to see if this is still a prefferred method to secure the center post.
thanks
If you use condom two pieces, instead of one, leaving a 1mm spacing, where the holes go through threaded post there shouldn't be any blockage of air. That's what I'm doing now and I still have to block a hole with toothpick point to stiffen draw.
Feisty Alice
Feisty Alice
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Just cut a ring from the top of the condom about 1/8 to1/4 inch wide. If you cut it into two pieces then you can fit one at a time into the space by the center post.
It's easy enough to put the condom slice in but putting two separate ones in is totally idiot/arthritis proof especially if you have good readers on, tweezers, and a toothpick. (Inexpensive Jewelers "hood" with magnifying lenses, cheap, are even better than readers for us oldies.) BTW.... Karen, Nerak, was the person who first posted using the condom slices for center post stabilization and shorting insulation.
I know of no more perfect way to secure and isolate the center, positive pin on A7.
Hugs, Feisty Alice
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ya i cant get mine to work on my VVW either
I have a bunch of Woodvils, all types, and the inside diameter varies widely on them. Some of the smaller Woodvil catchcups are actually larger ID than some of the larger Woodvils. Only sure way to get a large enough diameter, for most RBAs, and to avoid grinding out too much, trying to fit RBAs in, is to send in to REO for CC change out. I don't know what he charges, though. I figured, by the time I spend the money for labor and shipping, at least one RBA that will fit the smallest CC, Hornet or Surface, will be paid for.
Also, on the Wood REOs it's easy to raise the center post on atty fitting on REO.
Hugs, Feisty Alice
{edit} I forgot to mention the very high cost of stress the whole time REO(s) are in transit. I'm in dilemma right now about whether to send 2-3 REOs per box or all in same box. I'm not sure what the odd are on one box vs two getting "lost" in transit. Sure we can insure them but, in the case of vintage REOs and any Woodvils, they can't be easily replace.
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I was thinking of sending my three VV in for the button change. They would all fit in one box. That would have me worried crazy though. So for now, all are staying with me! Unless of course there is someone that wants to drive here and pick them up and take them to Maine for me and then drive them back! I would allow the VV Grand to be used by the driver during the trip!
Can so relate. It took Robert about six months to "make" me send in my first Grand when I melted the button with an atty short. I have several that have needed to go in for a year, mostly minor issues, but suffer fear of PO "losing" them. One is so very minor.... magnet removal from Woodvil 18490 door and replacement, that I've had a very hard time convincing myself to send it. I glued a magnet in when it's original fell out but the magnet I used was too small and not powerful enough. I don't want to risk damaging the wood door so prefer that Robert does it. So it is usable but with backups it makes it harder to send any in. I, also, have several 801 Woodvils I want sex changed to 510. (I'm keeping the original Woodys as 801) I would do a lot of crying if they were "lost" in transit. It's not nearly as difficult to "let go" with the metal REOs as they are more easily replaced, although I do love the older metal REOs, that are fairly rare, especially in the near pristine condition I've managed to keep them in. (Collector mentality here.)Hugs, Feisty Alice
{edit} I've heard that dealing with PO for insurance claims is a real hassle. I'm getting ready to send some to Robert but I'm going to take good pictures of each before wrapping, take a picture of them with receipted mailing label, and insure them heavily. I haven't done it yet, burn my email addy inside Wood bodies, but I do mark all inside bodies and doors with my email addy with as permanent marker as possible. I've planned, for two years on DIY engraving the inside door and body but haven't gotten around to doing that either. Before microchipping for pets was available we had my Driver's license tatooed on inside back leg of all dogs ( have my own tatoo device but usually had vet do it. With Mastiffs it can be done with them awake as they are so laid back and stoic. We usually had it done when they were out for prelimary joint X-rays. We never did inside ears as ears can be cut off.)
{edit} And frequently the large, working dogs are stolen for fighting or bait dogs especially Mastiff types.
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just wanted to pop in and say thanks for the A7 fix. its working great!
I soaked my A-7 in isopropyl alcohol for a few days (I actually forgot about it) and slight rust developed in certain areas. The rust buffed right out, but it remains ever-so-slightly pitted. It's still fine...just a word of caution; these aren't made of the highest grade stainless steel
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