I wanted to rebuild my heads with cotton, and also new coils...I have tried searching, but found nothing...everything that comes up is protank or standard T3 related, I have not been able o find an answer to this...please help...or I guess I will just have to sacrifice a head to verify for myself, lol!
Are Kanger T3s'es rebuildable?
- Thread starter Andrew Freeman
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Hi Andrew. I had this very same question some time ago and found an invaluable youtube video; I've been rebuilding my own evods and protanks ever since, and it's super easy. I'm hoping it's ok for me to post the video link here, but if for some reason it gets deleted you can pm me and i'll send it to you again. Hope this help...Good Luck.
Vapor Lady Lounge Rebuild a Protank Atomizer, eVod Atomizer A New Way - YouTube
Vapor Lady Lounge Rebuild a Protank Atomizer, eVod Atomizer A New Way - YouTube
T3S's are most certainly rebuildable! I've been rebuilding mine for about a month now using both silica and cotton (not both in the same re-build). As far as I know almost any bcc head can be rebuilt about the same way, whether it's a T3S, Protank, Evod, etc.
Indeed, just the same procedure as the PT and Evods. The original T3 / MT3 was a bit more of a challenge, since it was down in a well.
Now the second part...
ALL of my heads are completely leaking like a sieve...I obviously need to rebuild ASAP, but what is the best way to do this to avoid dry-burns, optimize flavor, but also ensure a 100% [or as much as possible] leak-free build?
Are you guys that rebuild heads like this having many leaking problems when using minimal amounts of cotton? Or should I try using a little bit more?
I guess I will just try rebuilding one and see how it goes, but in the meantime, while I am in the garage, a little help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
ALL of my heads are completely leaking like a sieve...I obviously need to rebuild ASAP, but what is the best way to do this to avoid dry-burns, optimize flavor, but also ensure a 100% [or as much as possible] leak-free build?
Are you guys that rebuild heads like this having many leaking problems when using minimal amounts of cotton? Or should I try using a little bit more?
I guess I will just try rebuilding one and see how it goes, but in the meantime, while I am in the garage, a little help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I use 2 mm silica for the main wick, although 3 mm also works well. 5/4 wrap of 32 puts me in the ohm range I like, and then one full strand of cotton yarn for the flavor wick.
Doing that, I can still dry burn when needed, and just replace the flavor wick.
If you use too little wick - of any type - it will probably leak down the center pin. Too much, and it may not wick well, although that's less of a problem with BCC than with top coils.
You can lay the wick over a long needle and wrap the kanthal there, or if you want to wrap the kanthal say on a 4-40 machine screw, you can wrap the end of the wick with teflon "plumber's tape" to make it easier to thread through your new coil. It comes off easily.
Doing that, I can still dry burn when needed, and just replace the flavor wick.
If you use too little wick - of any type - it will probably leak down the center pin. Too much, and it may not wick well, although that's less of a problem with BCC than with top coils.
You can lay the wick over a long needle and wrap the kanthal there, or if you want to wrap the kanthal say on a 4-40 machine screw, you can wrap the end of the wick with teflon "plumber's tape" to make it easier to thread through your new coil. It comes off easily.
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