Ares, new MTL RTA designed by Phil Busardo and Dimitirs Agrafiotis

[lanzenesi]

How does the air flow compare to a kayfun 5 with AFC wide open?

You awoke my curiosity. [emoji6]

I did a test with K5 on 4 dots and Ares wide open (all holes). K5 seems to have a easier draw, Ares stricter. Vapor production slightly more on K5, but both very close indeed. Flavor seem slightly better on Ares, but…

Ares has a newish kanthal wire while K5 SS is on 316L in need for changing. juice was the same.

As soon as K5 will have a new set up, in a couple of days or so, I'll try it again.

 

[stols001]

LOL, you are welcome.

"Alcohol, the cause of and solution to all of life's problems."

I think that's a Homer Simpson quote actually.

Glad it worked out.
Anna

 

[magicmyst]

I'm really enjoying my two Ares tanks. A+ flavor and currently no leaking/weeping/seeping. It's a warm vape, and sometimes the drip tip gets too warm at only 14.5 watts. Ordered a couple of these to help mitigate the heat. Wondering how long those sliding top caps are going to hold up?

 

[stols001]

Okay, I dropped an Ares that was pretty much reconstructable, except for the rubber insulator with airholes and also attached to the screws came apart I fiddled aimlessly for a while, to no effect before deciding I couldn't fix it.

However, it just happened to my OTHER Ares in the middle of recoiling . I have taken a pic. Please don't mind my coil, I was getting a bit... frustrated. LOL.

So this makes me think BOTH are fixable, and that this is just a THING that I can probably fix, on both of them, which would be rather nice. I have fooled around with it at length, I cannot imagine it needs glue? Who here has done this purposefully or by accident, on purpose or by accident? How do I fix it? I kind of liked my Areses. I tried jamming it, pressing it to no avail, and I was like, I'm gonna break the rubber. Help?

Here's a pic

Thanks for an aid?

Anna

 

[magicmyst]

@stols001 Hmmm... I've never taken the post deck off an Ares. On my Kayfuns that deck (and insulator) screws on to the center pin (you would hold it in place and tighten the center pin from the bottom of the deck). Is that just the screw for the coil terminal?

 

[stols001]

Yeah, there is a screw below the deck for the center post and it's metal but it's just a metal IDK even know what to call it like the end of a small pipe to the deck. It kind of looks like the rubber insulator wants to press down onto it. But the whole center part including the air diffuser is just rubber but there's a lip. Perhaps I am supposed to get it situated just right and press it down on there. I have tried that with little success, but maybe I am going to try with more aim.

I'm pretty unimpressed with it at the moment but it's probably just a "figure it out moment" and the rubber is pretty flimsy I don't want to damage it. Etc. Also, IDK what amount of force is actually going to stick it together. Oh well, I'll give it a few more shots in a bit,.

Anna

 

[magicmyst]

Forgot about that "diffuser thingy". You may have to wait until the mechanical wizards weigh in. It would be a shame if it can't be reassembled- after all, someone assembled them originally. Where are Phil and Demitri when we need them?!

 

[alistairs]

Hmm. The plot thickens ...

So just to try and help out, I too out my spare, which hasn't been used for a few months. I pressed lightly on the side of the positive terminal and it just popped out of the insulator. I'm like whaaat?

So I took out the bottom screw and the diffuser. It looks to me like the threaded pipe in the center of the pic is supposed to hold everything together. But mine just sheared off sitting there doing nothing!!! (The other part of it is still in the base held in by the gaskets).

So I don't know if something similar happens to yours, but I think this is the end of my spare unless I can get a new pipe and figure out how to get the gaskets off.

Meanwhile I still have one I'm my daily rotation but I'm a little nervous of that one now. I've never adjusted the 510 pin or the diffuser on either, so I've no idea how the pipe would just shear like that!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[stols001]

My pipe didn't shear, even in the one I dropped, but I was kind of shocked how easily my diffuser came off. I'm still going to try to have at it honestly, but I do NOT think it should be so easy to remove, either. Not unless it's equally easy to Reattach and it isn't.

I mean I would expect it from the one I dropped, but I kind of think it's a horrible design flaw how easily that thing comes off without even trying. If I can't fix mine, I might contact Innoken because frankly I think it's a horrible design. I could see it coming in handy for those who want to remove the diffuser and are mechanically inclined, but otherwise... Not so much. I was just to irritated yesterday to deal with it and it's also going to make me leery about building on it if I can even puzzle it back together.

I guess I should note that my coil was beefy, like a 0.9 resistance SS Clapton coil and I was greatly looking forward to it, but I have a feeling that if I get those diffusers back on, I may go back to really puny round wire builds. Etc.

In any case, barring anything else, maybe Innoken could give me some instructions on what to DO. There is always that. I'm not supergluing it although the lazy part of me is like, "Dood, girl, just super glue it." But, I don't want to be vaping superglue even slightly as I've never done the "what does eliquid do to super glue exactly?" experiment. Then I'm like, "But yeah, it's on the bottom of the tank surely if super glue is used it's not goin to make contact with the eliquid, I mean my pipe and insulator didn't have a drop of eliquid in them.

I still don't want to be test case one, exactly, though. I am in hopes some magic will happen today.

I'm sorry about your pipe, man when mine came apart, it was pretty easy to press fit/screw back together but that shouldn't be necessary either. Although, it was user error. I was feeling all confident, "Joy joy" when I reassembled my first one, but then the stupid insulator happened. I was like, "Okay I still have one Ares" but this one, it was like if you looked at it funny it detached.

Anna

 

[magicmyst]

I think you both should fire off an email to Innokin, asking for help with assembly and/or a replacement. I vote NO for super glue.

I wonder how the diffuser, etc. on the very similar Siren 2 is put together, compared to the Ares?

 

[Philabos]

So I received my new Ares tank.
Never wicked or wrapped before though I have been vaping for a year now.
First move was to try to wick with the enclosed prebuilt coil. Wicked it, read 1.10 ohm, worked great. Using it on and off for more than a week.
Ordered a second tank and tried my hand at making a coil. I have an ohm meter because I do not want to test on a mod.
My first attempt came in at 4 plus ohm. Tossed it. Tried a couple more times and best I could to was 2.42 ohm. 32 ga kanthal and the coil looks ugly, but passes the ohm meter. Wicked and put it on my aspire Zelos, reads 2.68 ohm. Started at 6.5w and now at 8w. Works fine, taste is good. But I know I have that darned ugly coil in there, and should be able to get down the ohms so will keep trying.
Any suggestions?
I have watched a number of YouTube videos and read the ohm chart.

 

[magicmyst]

/\ /\ /\ @Philabos, FWIW, not many folks use 32 gauge anymore. Most like 26 or 28. If you don't have one, I recommend getting a Coil Master Coiling Kit- as little as $10 on eBay.

 

[Janusz]

[QUOTE="alistairs, post: 21101755, member: 203681" unless I can get a new pipe and figure out how to get the gaskets off.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

That part of pipe that is still inside probably needs to be unscrewed from the bottom of tank. I do not have Ares but to remove post from my Siren I have to unscrew 2 pins one that is visible and second that is inside.

 

[Janusz]

So I received my new Ares tank.
Never wicked or wrapped before though I have been vaping for a year now.
First move was to try to wick with the enclosed prebuilt coil. Wicked it, read 1.10 ohm, worked great. Using it on and off for more than a week.
Ordered a second tank and tried my hand at making a coil. I have an ohm meter because I do not want to test on a mod.
My first attempt came in at 4 plus ohm. Tossed it. Tried a couple more times and best I could to was 2.42 ohm. 32 ga kanthal and the coil looks ugly, but passes the ohm meter. Wicked and put it on my aspire Zelos, reads 2.68 ohm. Started at 6.5w and now at 8w. Works fine, taste is good. But I know I have that darned ugly coil in there, and should be able to get down the ohms so will keep trying.
Any suggestions?
I have watched a number of YouTube videos and read the ohm chart.

32 gauge is way,way to thin to make good coil... but you can use it to make a twisted wire that will give you lower resistance and more sturdy nice looking coil that will provide you more flavor than coil made from thicker round wire. And believe me it is not difficult... I am not very experienced coil builder and I made perfect twisted wire on my very first try... see video below:

 

[Philabos]

Thanks for the suggestions.
Followed the drill tutorial , worked well. The twisted wire much easier to work with, and made a better coil. Still not perfect, but better. Read 1.9 on the meter and 1.86 on the mod.
Ordered the coil jig and some 28 ga wire.
One thing I noticed while working on the coil. Kept the meter on and found it apparently very important on the exact placement of the coil with regard to height. Wide variance in ohms as I adjusted.

 

[magicmyst]

My two Ares seep juice from the air vents. Was googling around and found this reddit thread suggesting that those little walls on each side of the air hole, intended to keep juice away from the hole, are actually acting as a conduit, directing the juice into the hole. It makes sense and is a major design flaw. Wick ends up resting on the top of the wall and juice runs down the side of the wall, into the hole.

 

[Philabos]

My two Ares seep juice from the air vents. Was googling around and found this reddit thread suggesting that those little walls on each side of the air hole, intended to keep juice away from the hole, are actually acting as a conduit, directing the juice into the hole. It makes sense and is a major design flaw. Wick ends up resting on the top of the wall and juice runs down the side of the wall, into the hole.

I also have two.
Neither one has leaked at all.

 

[magicmyst]

My two Ares seep juice from the air vents. Was googling around and found this reddit thread suggesting that those little walls on each side of the air hole, intended to keep juice away from the hole, are actually acting as a conduit, directing the juice into the hole. It makes sense and is a major design flaw. Wick ends up resting on the top of the wall and juice runs down the side of the wall, into the hole.

I'm withdrawing this theory. On closer inspection of the deck, it appears to me that even if juice were to flow down the insides of the two little walls, it still wouldn't make it into the air hole unless a large amount was to accumulate. Still don't know what's causing mine to seep. Re-wicked 'em both yesterday and raised the coils a bit. Dry so far.

 

[Philabos]

You probably already checked this, but after re wicking my coil today I noted the bottom O ring became unseated in the process of unscrewing. Refitted it and everything was fine.

 

[magicmyst]

You probably already checked this, but after re wicking my coil today I noted the bottom O ring became unseated in the process of unscrewing. Refitted it and everything was fine.

Yep. My bottom o-ring is always on the glass when I remove the deck.