I mounted just the base with the deck on the mod and rotated the deck in the base which it all that's happening with the method that you described.
Aromamizer RDTA by Steam Crave
- Thread starter roxynoodle
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hi roxynoodle
vaped a 28 twisted about 1 ohm for a couple of hrs its ok but compared to one of my 4 strand twisted 34 2.5 mm at 1.4ohm its not as good . vaping at 23 watts .now made one 4 wire twisted all the same but more turns...at 2ohms.
wow !! at 22 ohm it rocks . single coil of course . closed all air holes with a strip of metal tape and opened only one hole.
plenty of clouds so it wont be stingy with juice . battery life with good performance I hope for .
Exactly, just loosening the base or never tightening it all the way is what's described. No thanks.
Okay, one of us is missing something. So let's try to clarify.
First, let's forget and ignore the Imgur post. What I do:
1. Remove the atty from the 200,
2. Remove the base (lower part or entire); having done this several times one of the lower parts unscrews by itself, the other I must unscrew with my fingers;
3. Do whatever work I'm in there for, re-fill, dry-burn, re-wick;
4. Plop (a technical term) the 2-post back in the chamber, then,
5. Screw the lower part of the base back on watching to see that the 510 does not move.
6. Put the Aromamizer back on the VS 200 or Reuleaux. Vape.
BTW, I have also put the atty on the SX M Class getting the same reading of 0.13(4) when I lock in the SX resistance.
I'm sure I understand what you're doing ie. Never allowing the vdeck to be tightened into the 510 base completely. I just don't like the idea of it. Everything needs to be tight for tc in my world. The sanding mod accomplishes that and I never have to line things up again, ever.
Please see my step by step above.
Perhaps I am immune to making that mistake. Obviously TC will not be consistent if you try to change or fiddle with (another technical term) the 510.
That should, by now, be ingrained in all of us...
Untrue!
How would it be possible for me to get the same resistance reading, time after time, if I am NOT doing what you believe I am doing. [emoji6]
If deck isn't butted against the shoulder in the center of the base so then the negative connection is being made by the threads which is less than ideal.
Untrue!
How would it be possible for me to get the same resistance reading, time after time, if I am NOT doing what you believe I am doing.
So far I'd say luck has been on your side. As long as you keep the threads of the vdeck and base clean and have a strong 510 spring in your mod your luck may continue with an untightened vdeck. I run a few different tc mods, some don't have a very strong spring, some do. It's not worth the risk to me to leave things loosey goosey when sanding the bottom of the tank is so easy.
@cigatron Nothing "loosey goosey" here. Wish we didn't have such a strange difference.
I do need to make a small correction: the two builds are identical, dual verticals, 24 awg, 8-wraps, weighing in at 0.12 and 0.13. My mention of 0.24 was for the former dual horizontal replaced with a vertical.
The more things stay the same...they are the same. [emoji108]
What is the mod you have your Aromamizer on?
I do need to make a small correction: the two builds are identical, dual verticals, 24 awg, 8-wraps, weighing in at 0.12 and 0.13. My mention of 0.24 was for the former dual horizontal replaced with a vertical.
The more things stay the same...they are the same. [emoji108]
What is the mod you have your Aromamizer on?
Thanks. Seems like a very thick roll. What coil diameter are you using with the Scottish roll?
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I have dual vertical coils in mine at around 0.49 ohms. I had trimmed the top of the cotton even to the top of the posts. I noticed that if I push it up above 35 watts, I would start to get a slight dry hit if I take a really deep, long hit. How I was able to fix this was to trim the cotton down even more. I trimmed the cotton sticking out of the top of the coils right down just above the coil, so maybe 1 mm or less of cotton is poking out of the top of the coils.
I am in @cigatron s boat. On my x cube if the deck is loose from the base even a tiny amount, my resistance changes with every puff. Its fine on my Evic VT most of the time though. So I must screw my deck all the way to the base.
That is useful information, different mod, different 510.
I believe, however, I have discovered the source of the dispute, though, I will be patient in disclosing that until others have chimed in.
I brought up the same point, about unscrewing the deck slightly, like 10 pages back and got the same responses.
Yes it is thick but it is really fluffy. I wound my twisted 30 gauge Ni200 around a 2.5 mm mandrel but it sprung out to I would guess around 2.75. Definitely not 3mm. It took a couple tries to get the right diameter roll and stretch of the cotton but it didn't take much time. It turns out voluminous in the tails but not super compressed in the coil if that makes any sense.
tsk
I'm a bit confused with the discussion. The deck remains screwed securely into the base. It is the base to tank that would be adjusted slightly to align the airholes to the coil. Then screw the atty tightly into the mod, turning it by the base so that the base to tank positions are not altered.
I'm a bit confused with the discussion. The deck remains screwed securely into the base. It is the base to tank that would be adjusted slightly to align the airholes to the coil. Then screw the atty tightly into the mod, turning it by the base so that the base to tank positions are not altered.
I run the Aromomizer primarily on my Asolo. Sometimes on my Evic VT, Sig 150 or my Gson's Snow Wolf.
There are three ways of aligning the airholes to the vdeck being discussed.
1. Rotating the tank by loosening it a little. This is what you are talking about. It's temporary and requires readjustment periodically.
2. Sanding the bottom of the tank. It is easy and is a permanent fix as long as the tank, deck and 510 base remain as a matched set. All parts can be fully tightened and everything lines up every time. No fiddling required.
3. The one we are talking about now. Turning the tank upside down, inserting only the deck into the tank and rotating it for alignment, then screwing the 510 base onto the tank and deck at the same time while watching the 510 screw of the deck to make sure the deck doesn't spin out of position before the 510 base tightens fully to the tank. This scenario has many of us believing that the deck never really gets tightened fully to the 510 base and could be less than optimal for tc applications due to ground path intermittency.
Caught up?
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