Atmizoo Tripod RTA

[AngeNZ]

I have a clone of this rta on the way. I'm interested in what other users think about it. Plus any building or wicking tips.

The authentic:
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Review:
Honest Review: Atmizoo - Tripod RTA | The Vape Review Canada

The Ulton clone:
$24.95 ULTON Tripod Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 2ml / stainless steel + glass / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Free Shipping

ECF Review of the Ulton clone:
Labubs Looks Over: The Tripod RTA (ULTON) - An Excellent Clone of Possibly the Best RTA Ever Created

 

[ShowMeTwice]

Nice thread Ange!!!

I absolutely love my Atmizoo Tripod's. The Tripod has awesome flavor and is very much on par with my kayfun's, Dvarw's or Pocket v2 rta's. It is very easy to build on and maintain. I've had mine since batch 1 was released (over a year) and have had zero issues. I vape mine MTL-RDL-DL (all depends).

Ice matte w/3.4ml ext (batch 1) [L] + SS matte (batch 2) [R].

Building and wicking the Tripod is most similar to any of the modern Kayfun's. It has a very similar deck design to the K5 and also the KM3, Prime or KFL19.

I like to have my coil raised ~1.5 - 2mm above the AF. You can use the the cut outs on the rim of the deck for aligning your coil.
Here my coil is ~2mm above the center AF block.

A simple 26g 316L coil at 0.45Ω. The Tripod has worked great with every type of wire I've used (simple round to claptons).

I have the 1.8mm AF pin installed on the one in the pic above. If using any of the air flow pins add juice around its o-ring before installing. Raise the post screws to install or uninstall the AF pins. They are easy to install/remove.

The AF with the basic Tripod kit does MTL (using a 1, 1.2, 1.5 or 1.8mm AF pin) to DL (4mm airflow wide open). Use the AFC at the base of the deck to dial in your preferred airflow. To further fine tune the airflow Atmizoo sells a Fixed Airflow Tubes Kit specifically for RDL/DL vaping. It includes five tubes with 2, 2.2, 2.5, 2.8, 3mm AF. I do not know if those work with the clones (if 1:1 they should).

Wicking is easy on the Tripod (see pic for tips). The Tripod is wicked the same as a K5, KM3, Prime or KFL19. The wick tails should be just touching the bottoms of the juice wells (no more/no less). Trim the wick tails as described in the photo. For best performance you do not want the wells overstuffed with wick.

I like to make sure none of the wick is touching the center AF block. This prevents any juice from possibly seeping down the AF hole on the deck (same as a Kayfun). I make a gap under the shoulders of my wick. Simply move the wick shoulders away from the center AF block to get the gaps (see above pic). A paper clip, or needle, works very nicely for getting the gaps.

Wick. I use both rayon and cotton. With a 2.5mm ID coil I don't trim anything from the wick. Don't need to as the juice wells are large. I do lightly trim some from each of the tail sides when I use a 3mm ID (or larger). YMMV

Drip tip. The DT is a two piece assembly. You can unscrew it and use your own 510 DT's. If you do remove it leave the clear gasket inside of the top cap installed.

The Tripod uses JFC (juice flow control). To open the JFC simply rotate the glass tank section to expose your wick. Close it for filling the tank. Remember to turn the Tripod upside-down in order to remove the deck if you have juice still in the tank. See the manual (below) for details.

I would suggest trying it with, and without, the chamber reducer installed. You will be surprised.

Tripod manual for specs, usage and other tips. Second photo lists the o-ring sizes.
.... .... .... ....

ETA: @Zazie, I haven't created a PDF tutorial yet for the Tripod however this will get you up and running.

 

[Zazie]

Thanks for thinking of me, @ShowMeTwice. It is a comfort knowing I'll have this to refer to when I finally get around to drafting the Tripod into the rotation.

 

[AngeNZ]

Nice thread Ange!!!

I absolutely love my Atmizoo Tripod's. The Tripod has awesome flavor and is very much on par with my Kayfun's, Dvarw's or Pocket v2 RTA's. It is very easy to build on and maintain. I've had mine since batch 1 was released (over a year) and have had zero issues. I vape mine MTL-RDL-DL (all depends).
View attachment 896733
Ice matte w/3.4ml ext (batch 1) [L] + SS matte (batch 2) [R].

Building and wicking the Tripod is most similar to any of the modern Kayfun's. It has a very similar deck design to the K5 and also the KM3, Prime or KFL19.

I like to have my coil raised ~1.5 - 2mm above the AF. You can use the the cut outs on the rim of the deck for aligning your coil.
View attachment 896741 Here my coil is ~2mm above the center AF block.

View attachment 896743 A simple 26g 316L coil at 0.45Ω. The Tripod has worked great with every type of wire I've used (simple round to claptons).

I have the 1.8mm AF pin installed on the one in the pic above. If using any of the air flow pins add juice around its o-ring before installing. Raise the post screws to install or uninstall the AF pins. They are easy to install/remove.

The AF with the basic Tripod kit does MTL (using a 1, 1.2, 1.5 or 1.8mm AF pin) to DL (4mm airflow wide open). Use the AFC at the base of the deck to dial in your preferred airflow. To further fine tune the airflow Atmizoo sells a Fixed Airflow Tubes Kit specifically for RDL/DL vaping. It includes five tubes with 2, 2.2, 2.5, 2.8, 3mm AF. I do not know if those work with the clones (if 1:1 they should).

View attachment 896747 Wicking is easy on the Tripod (see pic for tips). The Tripod is wicked the same as a K5, KM3, Prime or KFL19. The wick tails should be just touching the bottoms of the juice wells (no more/no less). Trim the wick tails as described in the photo. For best performance you do not want the wells overstuffed with wick.

I like to make sure none of the wick is touching the center AF block. This prevents any juice from possibly seeping down the AF hole on the deck (same as a Kayfun). I make a gap under the shoulders of my wick. Simply move the wick shoulders away from the center AF block to get the gaps (see above pic). A paper clip, or needle, works very nicely for getting the gaps.

Wick. I use both rayon and cotton. With a 2.5mm ID coil I don't trim anything from the wick. Don't need to as the juice wells are large. I do lightly trim some from each of the tail sides when I use a 3mm ID (or larger). YMMV

Drip tip. The DT is a two piece assembly. You can unscrew it and use your own 510 DT's. If you do remove it leave the clear gasket inside of the top cap installed.

The Tripod uses JFC (juice flow control). To open the JFC simply rotate the glass tank section to expose your wick. Close it for filling the tank. Remember to turn the Tripod upside-down in order to remove the deck if you have juice still in the tank. See the manual (below) for details.

I would suggest trying it with, and without, the chamber reducer installed. You will be surprised.

Tripod manual for specs, usage and other tips. Second photo lists the o-ring sizes.
View attachment 896751 .... View attachment 896753 .... View attachment 896755 .... View attachment 896757 .... View attachment 896759

ETA: @Zazie, I haven't created a PDF tutorial yet for the Tripod however this will get you up and running.

You have outdone yourself. Thank you

 

[Mordacai]

The genuine MTL drip tip looks nice, unfortunately I've no idea if it's compatable with the Ulton clone though.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

The genuine MTL drip tip looks nice, unfortunately I've no idea if it's compatable with the Ulton clone though.

From a photo/info @Fredman1 posted in the shiny thread the DT on the Ulton looks to be the same as the authentic. Same 2 pieces. I would be surprised if the genuine MTL DT isn't compatible. It's pricey though. Any 510 DT will work on the Ulton.

 

[Mordacai]

It's true that they're expensive for what they are @ShowMeTwice, but you've got to admit that they do look nice together. Plus you don't end up with the possibility of loosing a 510 drip tip every time you have to fill the tank, because you have to remove it first.

 

[Fredman1]

The genuine MTL drip tip looks nice, unfortunately I've no idea if it's compatable with the Ulton clone though.

Glad to say...a 510 drip tip fits perfectly on the clone. The tip fits loose into the cap only, but with the cap on the tank, the tip goes in solid.
The white rubber seal inside the cap has to be removed though.

 

[Lalli]

Ulton Tripod is a very nice and solid MTL- vape with the 1mm insert. If you get it get the tank extension kit too.

But it has two flaws:

Deck screws rust, very badly. I hope this issue is fixed in later batches.

Some O-rings a little too thick for the atty to work properly. Its a pain to open the top cap or separate the deck from the tank. I changed O-rings to thinner ones (from some other atty) and it started working much better.

 

[Fredman1]

A simple 26g 316L coil at 0.45Ω

Copied...chucking along better than before. I love SS wire. Thanks mate

Played with the Tripod RTA this morning. First attempt was great, but wasn't bowling me over. Then I remembered SMT's brilliant post and raised my coil up a bit, and the difference was amazing

Brilliant post indeed

 

[Mordacai]

I can post my Ulton Tripod retrofits if folks would be interested?

 

[ShowMeTwice]

Copied...chucking along better than before. I love SS wire. Thanks mate


Brilliant post indeed

You are most welcome and thanks mate. I love SS wire too. Pulled out my NarDA RDA the other day, it had a clean kanthal coil in it already. Took two hits, yanked it and popped in a SS clapton. Much nicer.

My kanthal spools will be sitting in a box with a note stating "break open in case of very dire emergency".

 

[ShowMeTwice]

I can post my Ulton Tripod retrofits if folks would be interested?

Please post them. I think all Tripod info is helpful.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

Deck screws rust, very badly.

I saw that on the FT forum. Wouldn't count on Ulton using better screws without increasing the cost.

The authentic takes M2.5 x 4mm large pan head phillips post screws. Atmizoo sells them in both SS304 and steel core/nickel plated. Pretty sure one can find those elsewhere for lower cost.

Using the steel core, nickel plated screws ensures:

– better wire grip and better screwdriver grip on head, plus
– tear and wear focused on screws (easily replaceable) rather than post threads.

However this also requires:

– regular preview / check for tear and wear on nickel plating plus
– replacement of screws on regular basis

SS304 screws offer peace of mind but a bit worse results on grip (coil wire).

I have both types and both work well for me on my Tripod's.

Fairly certain those should work in the Ulton as I understand it to be 1:1.

ETA: M2.5 x 4mm screw search.

 

[Mordacai]

I'll sort them out later today @ShowMeTwice, as they're either on the PC or the phone hidden safely at one side.

But I can tell you for certain that 16.5mm × 1mm FKM o ring with a shore hardness of 75 works perfectly for sealing the top cap, gives just the right amount of friction compared to the one originally fitted and it doesn't bind.

One of these days I will learn to put things where I need them and in a logical order. But isn't that supposed to be for lazy people?

 

[Mordacai]

@ShowMeTwice, I ended up using A2 Stainless Steel button head hex socket machine screws with the Ulton. It really allows for finer higher gauge wire to be used, as the amount of times that a simple round wire coil would slip on me when being positioned was just ever so slightly annoying.

 

[Lalli]

I took spare screws from Vapesnail clone, don’t know of the quality yet.

 

[Mordacai]

Okay folks, o rings for Ulton Tripod.

16.5mm × 1mm - Top cap
16.0mm × 1mm - Deck/Tank seal
13.0mm × 1mm - Airflow control ring (×2)
06.0mm × 1mm - Vapour chamber seal

If you're feeling flush, definitely get hold of Viton (FKM) o rings with a shore hardness of 75. As they won't bind and they'll put up with a fair amount of punishment and last you a long while.

And yes, you are correct folks. I haven't got round to the o ring size needed for the chamber reducer. But at least the most important ones are covered.

I've got to measure the screws from one I've retrofitted with button head hex machine screws, as I've forgotten the length.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

Okay folks, o rings for Ulton Tripod.

16.5mm × 1mm - Top cap
16.0mm × 1mm - Deck/Tank seal
13.0mm × 1mm - Airflow control ring (×2)
06.0mm × 1mm - Vapour chamber seal

If you're feeling flush, definitely get hold of Viton (FKM) o rings with a shore hardness of 75. As they won't bind and they'll put up with a fair amount of punishment and last you a long while.

And yes, you are correct folks. I haven't got round to the o ring size needed for the chamber reducer. But at least the most important ones are covered.

I've got to measure the screws from one I've retrofitted with button head hex machine screws, as I've forgotten the length.

Nice job mate.

By contrast here are the ones used in mine (authentic):

18.0mm x 1mm NBR - seal o-ring/under the Top cap (you're calling it Top cap)
16.0mm x 1mm NBR - deck (same as Ulton)
14.0mm x 1mm NBR - x2 base (what you call airflow control ring)
12.5mm x 1.5mm SIL70 - chamber reducer
2.0mm x 1mm SIL70 - MTL AF pins
6mm × 1.5mm SIL70 - positive post o-ring


Not sure what you mean by the "06.0mm × 1mm - Vapour chamber seal". Here is the parts diagram. Please let me know which that is, thanks.


I've ordered the clone so I can see, and note, any differences for myself. I will know how much of a 1:1 the Ulton is soon.

As is typical with most of the clones the o-rings are cheap (keeping cost down) and, for lack of a better word, crap.

There are also 3 custom sized gaskets used in the authentic Tripod. Those are only available via Atmizoo ( o-rings/gaskets ).

 

[Mordacai]

@ShowMeTwice, the positive post o ring interests me. As it seems that the Ulton clone doesn't have one fitted.

Is it possible for someone to upload a photo of it's installation? As I'm unsure as to where it should be fitted.

As does it go in the cutout in the deck and then does the insulator go through it to create a seal? As I don't think that it goes on top of the insulator, as that wouldn't work.

And by Vapour Chamber seal, I mean the joints between the Vapour Chamber and Top Cap/Chimney Extension. Hopefully that'll clear things up.

But I notice that it's not mentioned at all in the genuine manual, so could someone confirm that the genuine is fitted with one there.