Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

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mbliffert

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This is the kind of BS that ruins this industry and forces organizations like the FDA to step in. SOME, not ALL FDA regulation would actually be a good thing to avoid customers being screwed back to back with malignant and misleading misinformation on their products in order to generate hype and sales.

It's all speculation at this point.

The FDA has no interest in whether you get a proper working mod or not, and the proposed regulations only hurt this industry and hand it right over to Big tobacco.

I don't think we consumers need to be protected from ourselves.

When I purchased this device for preorder, I knew it was new and untested and from a company I've never heard of before. I spent my $70 knowing I was taking a chance.

If it arrives and doesn't function as advertised I'll simply try to return it. I won't be mad about it or scream and holler at the retailer. If I wasn't willing to sacrifice any quality I would have purchased another authentic DNA30 mod.

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bsoplinger

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Thanks for asking the question but generally no one is going to fire a 1.4 ohm atty at 30 watts. You generally don't need more than 15 watts for a 1.4ohm atty. There are many devices already on the market that can handle 1.4ohm atties. The whole point of the DNA 30 is to have regulated sub ohm vaping. You are going to need 30 watts to fire a 0.5ohm RBA setup. My setups are in the 0.6-0.8ohms range and I would jump ship If I knew I won't be able fire them at 30 watts with the Hana clones.
This whole statement has me utterly confused about the issue. If you're vaping some atomizer with some coil in it and you're pumping either 15W or 30W through it, what does the resistance of the coil matter? Wattage directly relates to heat and heat is what's vaporizing the e-liquid. What am I missing here? I thought the only reason one made a 0.5 ohm coil was so that a battery in a mechanical mod could output enough current to produce the desired high Wattage since everything is unregulated.

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marcyprojects

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This whole statement has me utterly confused about the issue. If you're vaping some atomizer with some coil in it and you're pumping either 15W or 30W through it, what does the resistance of the coil matter? Wattage directly relates to heat and heat is what's vaporizing the e-liquid. What am I missing here? I thought the only reason one made a 0.5 ohm coil was so that a battery in a mechanical mod could output enough current to produce the desired high Wattage since everything is unregulated.

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I feel the same way. I hear about 100+ watt mods and they're supposed to be for subohms only. But the way I've always worked it out, it would make sense if its for 3+ohm builds. I don't get it. I can't remember how amps are calculated but maybe it'll make sense if I see the formula.

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mbliffert

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This whole statement has me utterly confused about the issue. If you're vaping some atomizer with some coil in it and you're pumping either 15W or 30W through it, what does the resistance of the coil matter? Wattage directly relates to heat and heat is what's vaporizing the e-liquid. What am I missing here?

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The higher the resistance the more volts needed to produce the desired wattage. Look up Ohm's Law.

It is on the chip to be able to regulate and supply correct and consistent voltage to achieve the desired wattage.

Coil size, diameter, shape, and type of wire also affect the flavor/vapor production as well.

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Muggs

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All I care about is this thing firing a 0.7ohm coil which on a fresh charged battery at 4.1v, haha, will produce 24 watts. I'm hoping that isn't a problem for this. I just want a regulated VV mod that will fire sub ohm coils. Not asking for much here, lol. I have fun with my mechs don't get me wrong but that dial in ability is so nice to have.
 

mbliffert

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I am also in the same boat. I rarely build anything above .8ohms these days. Lower gauge wire just brings out so much more from the juice.

For me it's less about the ability to regulate up, but more about regulating down. Being able to vape under 25-30 watts with 22-24g wire has been amazing!

I still use my mechs everyday though as my DNA devices won't fire a .2-.3ohm coil and definitely can't produce 60+ watts of power.

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AnsonJames

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Perhaps I missed it but where on the video did they mention the atomizers are different. I'm part of this pre-order and for 70$ I'm losing little sleep over this. I personally think it's going to be as good as the original. Cloupor knows their fate rests on the quality of this product. At this point intense Q&A should trump appeasing the masses with an early delivery. 70$=4-5ish days of analog death sticks. It's all good

Not being funny but Clouper have been around for about 10 minutes in the great scheme of things, the only product that I know of that they produced before this was the Cloutank - which was an utter Donkey.
Thinking that this is going to be as good as the original is one thing - what everyone actually receives is another.

These guys are an unknown quantity.
 

HazMatt

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^ what he or she said

He, thank you very much

All I care about is this thing firing a 0.7ohm coil which on a fresh charged battery at 4.1v, haha, will produce 24 watts. I'm hoping that isn't a problem for this. I just want a regulated VV mod that will fire sub ohm coils. Not asking for much here, lol. I have fun with my mechs don't get me wrong but that dial in ability is so nice to have.

according to ohms law calculator, for 4.2v to fire at 30w you would need a resistance of 0.58...
So, if you use a coil higher than 0.59 ohm, these 30 w devices will actually fire hotter than a mech.
0.6 ohms at 30w equals 4.8+ v. 4.8v is more than a freshly charged battery at 4.2v. And I like it ;)
 

graffiti

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Theoretically, 2.3Ω is the best resistance to run your DNA30 at.

Hear me out on this.

8.3v (the max output of the DNA board) and 30 watts gives you 2.29Ω and 3.61 amps (although the amperage pulled off the battery is probably significantly higher than that).

4v (the minimum output) and 2.3Ω (from the last bit of math) gives you... 6.96 watts. Running at 2.3Ω gives you the whole range of wattage settings to work with. If you're running a 0.5Ω coil, you have no wattage settings below 27 watts, it's just dumping the battery.

I don't understand why people are saying DNAs are for subohming. From what I've seen they're for giving the sub-ohm experience on higher resistance attys. I mean, if you want to run a 0.5Ω coil at 30 watts, why not just wrap a 0.5Ω coil and throw it on your mech? It's basically the same thing.

Now if you want 30 watts on your 1.8Ω coil, now you're taking advantage of the DNA chip.
 

EDO

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This whole statement has me utterly confused about the issue. If you're vaping some atomizer with some coil in it and you're pumping either 15W or 30W through it, what does the resistance of the coil matter? Wattage directly relates to heat and heat is what's vaporizing the e-liquid. What am I missing here? I thought the only reason one made a 0.5 ohm coil was so that a battery in a mechanical mod could output enough current to produce the desired high Wattage since everything is unregulated.

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Here is an excellent read that will answer your questions:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html

But to give you a summary. Generally a 2.0 ohm coil is a single coil made with 34g or 32g coil (thin wire). Since these coils are made with thin wire you don't need a lot of watts to heat them up. As matter of fact at 15 watts a 32g 1.5ohm coil would burn most juices. At 30watts it would obliterate any juice and it would be unvapeable. Now lets take a coil that is made of 26g wire at .5 ohms. 26g wire is a super thick wire....vaping it at 15 watts it would hardly produce any vapor. You would need to push 30 watts through it to make satisfying vapor production. Same goes with number of coils.... you need more wattage to push a dual coil vs single coil and you need more wattage to push quad coils vs dual coils. Let say If you think a certain set up at 1.5 ohm is the beez neez at 12watts and then you decided to set it up dual coil it would hardly produce any vapor at 12 watts....you would need about 24 watts....and the resistance of the atty would be 0.75ohms. Hope my explanation made sense if not go through the link above...it really is a good read.
 

CurlyxCracker

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He, thank you very much



according to ohms law calculator, for 4.2v to fire at 30w you would need a resistance of 0.58...
So, if you use a coil higher than 0.59 ohm, these 30 w devices will actually fire hotter than a mech.
0.6 ohms at 30w equals 4.8+ v. 4.8v is more than a freshly charged battery at 4.2v. And I like it ;)

Not to mention under load a fresh battery is NOT firing at 4.2v. A mech cannot regulate any amount Of wattage gives an inconsistent vape. That's the appeal in my eyes, regulating higher watt vape. Let's say for argument a fresh battery would fire at 4.2v on a .58ohm coil, you get that 30watts for MAYBE 1 whole pull. It immediately decreases every press of that button
 

mbliffert

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Not to mention under load a fresh battery is NOT firing at 4.2v. A mech cannot regulate any amount Of wattage gives an inconsistent vape. That's the appeal in my eyes, regulating higher watt vape. Let's say for argument a fresh battery would fire at 4.2v on a .58ohm coil, you get that 30watts for MAYBE 1 whole pull. It immediately decreases every press of that button

It isn't that extreme, but on a mech around the resistance you'd notice battery drop off after about 45-1hour in my experience. Good batteries and mech mods help this issue too.

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EDO

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Theoretically, 2.3Ω is the best resistance to run your DNA30 at.

Hear me out on this.

8.3v (the max output of the DNA board) and 30 watts gives you 2.29Ω and 3.61 amps (although the amperage pulled off the battery is probably significantly higher than that).

4v (the minimum output) and 2.3Ω (from the last bit of math) gives you... 6.96 watts. Running at 2.3Ω gives you the whole range of wattage settings to work with. If you're running a 0.5Ω coil, you have no wattage settings below 27 watts, it's just dumping the battery.

I don't understand why people are saying DNAs are for subohming. From what I've seen they're for giving the sub-ohm experience on higher resistance attys. I mean, if you want to run a 0.5Ω coil at 30 watts, why not just wrap a 0.5Ω coil and throw it on your mech? It's basically the same thing.

Now if you want 30 watts on your 1.8Ω coil, now you're taking advantage of the DNA chip.

The point is people want to experience regulated subohm vaping. The DNA chip was made for this...that is the whole point of it. Generally most atties (Kanger, Aspire, EGO) that are 1.8ohms use 34g or 32g wire.....vaping them at 30watts would completely obliterate most juices. There are plenty of devices on the market that are designed to handle the Kangers and Aspires heads.
 

EDO

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Not to mention under load a fresh battery is NOT firing at 4.2v. A mech cannot regulate any amount Of wattage gives an inconsistent vape. That's the appeal in my eyes, regulating higher watt vape. Let's say for argument a fresh battery would fire at 4.2v on a .58ohm coil, you get that 30watts for MAYBE 1 whole pull. It immediately decreases every press of that button

Exactly.....
 

CurlyxCracker

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It isn't that extreme, but on a mech around the resistance you'd notice battery drop off after about 45-1hour in my experience. Good batteries and mech mods help this issue too.

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Yes you won't notice the difference between 4.2 and 4.19. Your still discharging that battery and the output does change with every pull. I use VCT4s only it's the only battery I own. I PERSONALLY don't notice until about the 3.7-3.8 mark, but I have not been getting the same wattage I got with the first vape on every vape that follows, noticing the difference or not it still decreases in terms of the numbers, the quality isn't immediately noticeably decreased.
 

graffiti

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The point is people want to experience regulated subohm vaping. The DNA chip was made for this...that is the whole point of it. Generally most atties (Kanger, Aspire, EGO) that are 1.8ohms use 34g or 32g wire.....vaping them at 30watts would completely obliterate most juices. There are plenty of devices on the market that are designed to handle the Kangers and Aspires heads.

Well, yes, but the point still stands. What's the difference on an RDA between 0.5Ω at 30 watts and a 2Ω at 30 watts?
 

marcyprojects

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Yes you won't notice the difference between 4.2 and 4.19. Your still discharging that battery and the output does change with every pull. I use VCT4s only it's the only battery I own. I PERSONALLY don't notice until about the 3.7-3.8 mark, but I have not been getting the same wattage I got with the first vape on every vape that follows, noticing the difference or not it still decreases in terms of the numbers, the quality isn't immediately noticeably decreased.

Yeah I watched a riptrippers video saying you don't really notice a drop off until you use a regulated mod (which I've never used before)

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