It is the type that Cloud9 gives, it was in the packaging bag not the box, they just threw it in there.
Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
- Thread starter KTMRider
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
It is the type that Cloud9 gives, it was in the packaging bag not the box, they just threw it in there.
The 2 new ones that showed up today has red o-rings and some think that's a red flag (get it?) of a bad clone. The one I ordered is supposed to come with spares even though it's not pictured. Sufie posted that they'll put up pics when they get it in a couple of days.
Me too. I wasn't too impressed with the $180 price tag on the original and the reviews ranging from about the same as a KFL+ to worlds better didn't motivate me enough to get one. For $24, I'm willing to try it out.
I'm glad I tried a Erlkonigin clone because I absolutely hate it and would've been pretty ...... if I paid $160 for the authentic. If I like the K4 clone as much as I love my KFL+'s, I'll buy an authentic.
This is the exact reason I have when ordering a clone, to find out how I like it before getting an authentic.
In fact I look at it as a "shareware" option - try before you buy. It has in fact lead me to purchase some authentic that I did not plan to get - and on the other side, saved me some money on what I otherwise would used money on and got something I did not like.
So far, de-burred the juice holes on tank side of chimney
All parts are clean or cleaning.
Air screw I thouht was missing but no, it was screwed all the way in (way up there)
I'm going to start with the UC (510 base) and am looking to see what thickness shim to use, if really thin I'll be looking at part #7 to make it thinner but I don't see really that much difference in it's thickness between the clone and the authentic.
I really need to buy a better micrometer but this one will suffice I suppose, I want to measure some places on parts #3, 5 , & 8
Edit: finished, success, made 0.009 shim if ss (cut from shielding/pcima cover from inside old broken laptop). I could turn it be just a wee bit tight ( nuts real tight here) so I took about another thousandth off of ring #7, perfect now.
Now to assemble with ni200 coil.
So to gain the clearance needed, I added a 9 mil into the square hole in part 3 and took about 1 mil off of ring 7 for a total of about 10 thousands of an inch. There isn't much depth left in the square hole for a thicker shim but a 10 mil still may work out it's just that my stock was 9 mil. I don't think you would want to take 10 mil off #4, wouldn't be much left.
Last edited:
I have the ft red o ring one. This thread is long now 
. Any heads up about it I should know before I build?
. Any heads up about it I should know before I build?
Got my Tobeco clones in this afternoon. Nice looking. Threads seem to be good. Ever so slight aroma of machine oil. Not overwhelming. My Kanger subtank was much worse. You could smell the oil through the shipping package.
Right now, they're broken down and taking a bath in Dawn. We'll let 'em soak a bit and work with them tomorrow as my alarm is set for 4am. Looking forward to getting them set up when I can find some time in the next day or so.
Right now, they're broken down and taking a bath in Dawn. We'll let 'em soak a bit and work with them tomorrow as my alarm is set for 4am. Looking forward to getting them set up when I can find some time in the next day or so.
I have the ft red o ring one. This thread is long now
Wash it, wash it again, wash it again..............................some more
. 009 inches? I wouldn't even know how to get there without a special tool. So it sounds like I could just file down the seal? You just use sand paper?
When I tightened #9, or the 510 pin my Robot tech would bind up, and Juice control could not be turned, took maybe 5, or 6 passes on some 1500 grit wet/dry, on both sides of #7, reassembled, and now its nice, and smooth, and I can properly tighten the 510 pin.
I suppose the sanding served 2 purposes, one being to thin #7 very slightly, and it also polished it a little. No shimming needed on this one, and it is now very nice, and smooth no more binding, everything is properly tight.
I suppose the sanding served 2 purposes, one being to thin #7 very slightly, and it also polished it a little. No shimming needed on this one, and it is now very nice, and smooth no more binding, everything is properly tight.
Awesome. I may have to try sanding it down. But it's useless for the time being, as I lost the chimney part that screws onto the coil area [emoji35]
I fired mine up and had no more oil taste but I guess I didn't rinse out the Dawn very well as I could taste it real good. Tore it back down, rinced it some more, re-wicked, all is good now
Last edited:
I know that I said something about posting a picture of my K4 clone flawlessly running Ni200, maybe later but that is exactly what I'm running, it is the same build as in my authentic and is 0.11Ω with no fluctuation on resistance. I have removed the spring and replaced it with a short sleeve, just as I did on my authentic. There ya go.
Ok, yes, it was filthy, especially up in the chimney
My 510 pin is stuck. Can't budge it.
My build isn't reading as expected either. It should have been 1.2ohm, but its reading 1.4 on everything. I counted my wraps again,and I don't have an extra. I have it on a mech so the vape is weak. Going to rebuild tomorrow.
My 510 pin is stuck. Can't budge it.
My build isn't reading as expected either. It should have been 1.2ohm, but its reading 1.4 on everything. I counted my wraps again,and I don't have an extra. I have it on a mech so the vape is weak. Going to rebuild tomorrow.
Just received my tobeco kayfun4 clone. Quality is top notch... can't compare to orginial but no complaints with tobeco clone.
It is a very hot vape and I was running kayfun's at 20 watts but I turned this down to 16.5 watts. Huge vape and great flavor
A 1.6 ohm coil with air running wide open
It is a very hot vape and I was running kayfun's at 20 watts but I turned this down to 16.5 watts. Huge vape and great flavor
A 1.6 ohm coil with air running wide open
Last edited:
Any chance of photos of the sleeve or a short tutorial video if you get some spare time?
A picture of the sleeve is back on post #333, it's about 4.5 mm in length.
I make sure the sleeve is just a bit too long so when the liquid control is all the way open I still have a very small gap at the spot shown in this picture. The gap is about the thickness of 28 gauge wire, this makes sure it's got a solid connection.
The one in the picture is darn near closed, don't leave anywhere near that much.
Last edited:
Funny thing Circa, that chimney "shroud" (part 25) piece is not absolutely necessary based on some of the things I have heard about the original. I think it was Understudy on Plumes who forgot to put the piece on and was able to vape with his authentic just fine.
It looks like Sweet-Vapes has the EHPro version in stock on their site EHPro Kayfun V4 - New for $44.95.
I have received my tracking number and stamps.com says "pre-shipping info has been sent to USPS" I am in Canada so not sure if that changes the way it's tracked.
My B version from FT should be here today or tomorrow so that should hold me over until the Tobecos make the long journey North.
So I got mine working right with a combination of aluminium foil and sanding down #7. Good connection and the valve rotates properly.
I did flood the tank playing with it so much. I cannot tell by looking at it, but when it floods where does the juice mainly need to be cleaned out from?
I did flood the tank playing with it so much. I cannot tell by looking at it, but when it floods where does the juice mainly need to be cleaned out from?
- Status
