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@Venator here is a photo I had in a folder that might possibly help you. It's from the Prime not from the nKFL. The build decks on the Prime and nKFL are same. Vapdivrr confirmed this many pages ago.
Not my photo, and sorry, I don't know who to give credit to. Thinking this may be a good visual to what vapdivvr is saying in the second part of his post.
Note how the wick shoulders come out of the coil and are moved away from the center block. See the space on each side where you can fit a paperclip or sm diameter screwdriver through (same for K5 + KM3). Adding also; the ends of the wick should just be touching the bottom where the juice channels are but not blocking. Like Vapdivrr and Bronze (and I'm certain many others), I cut my wick ends so they meet the top of the o-ring (top one by pos insulator).
Just trying to be helpful.
Not my photo, and sorry, I don't know who to give credit to. Thinking this may be a good visual to what vapdivvr is saying in the second part of his post.
Note how the wick shoulders come out of the coil and are moved away from the center block. See the space on each side where you can fit a paperclip or sm diameter screwdriver through (same for K5 + KM3). Adding also; the ends of the wick should just be touching the bottom where the juice channels are but not blocking. Like Vapdivrr and Bronze (and I'm certain many others), I cut my wick ends so they meet the top of the o-ring (top one by pos insulator).
Just trying to be helpful.
Or you may want to contact SM as I did and received two 6mm air flow screws which solved my problem. Just saying!
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Great pic as you can see that gap...it even harder to get that separation with rayon that I use, because its threaded in a bit tighter. Because of this, it really bunches at the coil ends snd protrudes downwards, so I have to trim my wick tail, especially at the bottom....if I dont , I feel that extra bulk travels against the wire leads and downwards to deck....I think the larger the coils ID, the more you have to keep all this in mind.
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I have kept the feed holes open and with cotton over them. It works both ways. But I think if you have lots of cotton jammed into the well it is possible to block them. I use 2.0 mm coils so my cotton volume is kind of low to begin with and difficult to stuff the well. Angling off the end of the wicks is helpful.
Thanks everyone for the reply's, one thing I cannot understand is when we say the wicks must just touching the deck, how I can know if touching or not? I know this is a length thing but I feel it doesn't block the feeding holes.
If you cut your wick ends at the, or to the, top of the 1st o-ring - in my experience they will be touching the bottom of the deck where the juice holes are and then won't block the feeding holes.
Where folks can get into trouble is their wick length is longer than that 1st o-ring and then some of their wick could end up going into the juice holes - creating a wicking problem with feeding juice.
If the wick is a tad bit longer than the o-ring it won't cause a problem. Honestly, there have been times when my ends were a tad longer and I had no problems. It doesn't need to be scientifically precise to the o-ring but that is how I like to do it (minus the science part).
Hope that helps.
I use both 2mm and 2.5mm ID coils in my Primes. Like Bronze said the cotton volume/density is low for 2mm ID but I still trim almost 40% of that cotton density, the ends, and for me I get a great vape plus zero problems. With the 2.5mm ID I trim closer to 50ish % off the ends and the tank just performs super nicely. I will also use rayon and a lot needs to be trimmed from the ends in comparison to cotton. I think on the first page of the Prime thread is posted a very informative video by Vapdivrr.
Go to the first post in this thread. Scroll down to Qorax' video. Start at 17.30.
As showmetwice stated, an unsaturated wick tail that hits the oring is a good judge. I cut mine off just barely touching the top of that oring but coil height can change that distance. I think most set their coils at 1.5mm but if you did 2mm and cut to that oring then perhaps they might be to short. I do a final check once my tails have been saturated and are sitting in channels. I take a blunt tip needle, 1.3mm (same one I check my coil height with) and after they are tucked into channels, I fine tune that tuck with that needle, and as I push that needle against the wick tail and edge of channel wall and seat that wick downwards, I can feel that proper distance. I can feel if the tails are short, or if it feels too bunched down there. Hard to explain, but pushing or tucking those tails down with a needle like that gives me a feel of the lenght of tail in relationship to the bottom of ledge...
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There is a difference. I can see that yours doesn't have that gap and is bunched near coil ends.
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i also noticed the prime is not as airy as it used to be,no matter how much i clean it and pass a brush rode through the air hole,
or maybe i got used to an airier draw since on my kfl+ i got to a point where i could remove the af screw completely when i used to have it half way in.
to get the gap between the wick and the coil like we saw on the picture,i use a tiny screw driver from one side to the other,but now i don't really bother that much,i just moved to the bigger air flow setting and it's fine.
or maybe i got used to an airier draw since on my kfl+ i got to a point where i could remove the af screw completely when i used to have it half way in.
to get the gap between the wick and the coil like we saw on the picture,i use a tiny screw driver from one side to the other,but now i don't really bother that much,i just moved to the bigger air flow setting and it's fine.
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Looks quite stuffed to me.
If you mean in the channels the cotton is ok because I put a screwdriver and it's not too loose or too much
Yes there...that part, but underneath. See its encroaching over the deck and what I believe is juice travels down, against the wire leads and that makes a path for juice, but if the cotton came more straight out from coil, then down to channels , there's less chance. Overall I would work on that, even if it requires you to trim some of that bulk on the tails, which I personally think you should do. Yes you put a screwdriver and said it's not overstuffed, but that's the lenght, but the width could use a bit of trim
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@Venator , have you checked if af tube and deck are tight? Or checked all orings? That's usually the first things to check. Have you unscrewed deck from base? Once apart you can check to see if af tube is also tight and check little oring at 510. Also if you suck on tank with finger over af hole, without firing, is it sealed?
Hey just an update on the nylon grub screws:
I found some for my Kayfun v4, hiding in a box...
I installed two of them into the airflow shaft of the nKFL [2019].
Same exact threads.
Two of them take up the whole of the empty space inside the airflow shaft, leaving no room for post-hit condensation to form.
Granted, I have the airflow about as closed off as I can stand it.
I ran the first screw all the way in, and then backed it off approximately 1.5 turns.
Very nice MTL hit.
Anyway...just figured if there’s someone out there who doesn’t want to go through the hassle of contacting SM for the nylon grub screws...the old Kayfun v4 version will work...with two installed!
I found some for my Kayfun v4, hiding in a box...
I installed two of them into the airflow shaft of the nKFL [2019].
Same exact threads.
Two of them take up the whole of the empty space inside the airflow shaft, leaving no room for post-hit condensation to form.
Granted, I have the airflow about as closed off as I can stand it.
I ran the first screw all the way in, and then backed it off approximately 1.5 turns.
Very nice MTL hit.
Anyway...just figured if there’s someone out there who doesn’t want to go through the hassle of contacting SM for the nylon grub screws...the old Kayfun v4 version will work...with two installed!
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