Batteries and choosing ohm build

[Vaep]

I just bought an Astro (tele) which I want to use in 18350 mainly. The atty is a basic dual coil.(I have a few)

Im not sure yet what sort of wacky dual-coil style i'll go for but from what people are telling me, with an 18350 battery I am limited in my ohms amount when I make my build. I cannot go under 0.6ohms. And I am guessing I have to use IMR?? protected??
So should I aim to make a 0.6ohm build??? .8? 1.0?

Maybe ill have a 350 bat AND a 650 for when I want lower ohms..

I basically just need some input from y'all on what sort of build to do... I don't want ridiculous clouds.. I think a Protank on an Evic vaping at 4.0v puts out some good clouds.. I'm looking for the next step though.. more of a straight to lung toke...but I don't like to stay inhaling for so long...about 2 seconds...

 

[IMFire3605]

There are many things you can do, but yes, an AW IMR 18350 is one of your best options here, they don't last long on charge at low ohms, but they are safe if you stay within their continuous amp rating, which is I think about 10amps. Have to remember, airflow plays a lot in this as well as ohms, watts, amps, and volts. My Igo-W is built right now at 0.65ohms, in a dual nano-coil using 4 wires in parallel (technically a quad coil) using 32ga wire, I pull about 7-8amps at a full charge on my 18650 MNKE and AW IRM 18650s, airholes are about 7/64. Your biggest friend will be an ohm meter which you can find at a few good vendors like madvapes or such, or a digital multi-meter to check your ohms and check for shorts. A 2 second pull off a 0.6 or even 0.8ohm dual coil will give an equivalent vapor output of a Protank on your Evic, though my present build on a full lung pull I can out fog a person using a 0.2ohm dual coil with the same modifications to their Igo-W.

I'd suggest start out about 1.5 and once you get the hang of building and different techniques to achieve your nic intake, vapor production, throat hit, and heat requirements you can work it down, but 0.8ohms would be the most I'd pull on a 350 batt to stay safe and not burn through batts so often.

Good luck and be safe =)

 

[Tbev]

You're doing well so far asking for help is always a good idea, but you've got a lot of reading to do. You pretty much have to run an 18650, and you should buy some good ones right off the bat so you don't have to keep buying better ones, they cost the same pretty much anyway. If you start with Sony 30V 18650' s you'll be good going forward. No reason not to. What kind of batteries do you have now?
As far as your build goes, the lower the resistance, the faster it's going to kill your battery. Realistically your going to be soaked with a 1.5 to 2 ohm coil. I promise. You want to be as easy on your battery as you can, it will last longer, and not blow up either.

I'm assuming you've gotten used to vaping a ProTank. For this reason I'm going to say you are going to be mildly irritated dripping every hit so I'm going to recommend also buying a kayfun Clone of some sort. I have a rocket from fasttech, it kicks ..., it's stupid easy, it preforms great at 1.5ohms and it costs like 12 bucks.

Your also going to need an ohm meter, always check your coils before you put power to them, before you screw them down, and you want to make sure your atomizer didn't come from fasttech with a short in it. The first atty I got from them was machined so bad had a dead short inside and would have wrecked my battery, at the very least. I fixed it and it's great now but I'm just saying, ohm meter, not important, required.

Basically, without anymore rambling on, your whole setup comes down to your batteries.
What kind of batteries do you have now?
Go do some reading on the forum about batteries resistance ohms law etc. In the meantime, pm me any questions you want.





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[Vaep]

Yep got an ohm meter comin. might as well show my checklist:

in the mail from fasttech:

Astro mod
Helios atty
V5 atty fog cap

What I Now Need to hunt down:

Batteries: 2x AW IMR 18350 flatop, 1 x sony 30a (dunno which model to get???)
Charger: Looking for a single or dual that will charge 18350 and 650's... looking to spend 15$ max
Eko wool: 2mm by the foot...looking to spend about 5$
28ga Wire. Ive only ever used 32ga wire before.

also purchasing a Fasttech Kayfun lite fogged version.. I wanna buy the nano kit for it soon!!


SO I got all this stuff comin in... I appriciate the feedback guys.. Im gonna go for a 1ohm build and see how it goes...

Any ideas on what kind of build I should do for my Helios? its a dualcoil.

 

[Vaep]

And yes, good battery time is something I want since I will be using 18350 like I said...

Youre saying if I go up into the higher ohms, I will use less battery juice? Thats good to know..

I would like to find that "hotspot" in coilbuilding like I have with my ego-twist. Vaping at around 4 volts gives out the most flavour and vapour production...any higher in volts and the flavor will dissapear... need to find this same hotspot with coils @ 3.7volts

 

[jkais3r]

I just bought a xtar wp2 charger on ebay for $20. It's supposed to be a good charger. I think I bought about 100ft of 32awg kanthal on ebay as well for like $4.50. I haven't looked up 28 but I'd have to assume it would be within a dollar or two.

I bought some efest 18650 1600mah from 101vape for like 7 or 8 bucks a piece, with a 30amp discharge blowupy limit. I was initally scared away from them, but after doing some research I said screw it, I doubt I'll ever even get near the 30 amp limit anyways.

You should also buy a battery case, for a buck. Just incase

 

[Baditude]

You want IMR or hybrid batteries (unprotected / high drain / safer chemistry). You don't want to use protected ICR batteries because of their low amp limits.

The best 18350 IMR battery is from AW, and it only has a 6 amp continuous discharge rate. I don't recommend using this battery for sub-ohms.

Doing any sub-ohms you should go with the larger 18650 batteries with over 10 amp continuous discharge rate. This assures only using 80% of the battery's amp capacity at any time and allows for plenty of amperage headroom for additional safety.

AW IMR
18650 2000mah 10Amp CDR
18650 1600mah 24A
18490 (1100mah) 16.5A
18350 ​(700mah) 6A

MNKE IMR
18650 1500mah ​20A

Panasonic ​or Orbtronic hybrid
CGR18650CH (IMR/hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
NCR18650PF (LiNiCOMnO2) INR/ICR/IMR Hybrid 2900mAh 10A
NCR18650PD (LiNiCoAl) 2900mAh 10A
Orbtronic 18650 SX22 (hybrid) 2000mAh 22A
Orbtronic 18650 SX30 (hybrid) 2100mAh ​30A

Sanyo
UR18650EX 2000mAh 20A

Samsung hybrid (LiNiCoMnP)
INR18650-22P 2200mAh 10A
INR18650-20R 2000mah 22A

Sony hybrid
us18650v3 IMR 2250mAh 10A
us18650vct3 1600mAh 30A
us18650vtc4 2100 mAh 30A

Efest IMR
18650 (IMR/hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
18650 2000mAh 10A
18650 1600mAh 30A
18490 1100mah 8.8A
18350 800mah 6.4A

BATTERY BASICS FOR MODS: IMR OR PROTECTED ICR?

DEEPER UNDERSTANDING OF MOD BATTERIES

Make certain that you own a digital multimeter so that you can measure your coil's resistance before you ever fire it on a mod. Use the OHM'S LAW CALCULATOR to be certain the current (amps) pulled from the battery will not exceed what the battery can handle (amps in continuous discharge rate). THIS IS CRITICAL. (Use 4.2 volts, a fully charged battery's voltage, in the calculation.)

 

[Vaep]

Thanks alot Baditude, I wish I looked at that chart earlier today! I spent all day comparing mahs and amps hehe...

I finally settled on the Sony us18650vtc4 2100 mAh 30A

and 2 flattop Efest 18350s and a Nitecore i2 charger...all for 42$ bucks shipped... (Coulda payed maybe 35$ and had it ship a little faster but oh well) Not bad for a days worth of headache..

Woohoo! Batteries and mods on the way! Now for some wick/wire...

 

[Tbev]

Yes that is the sony 30 I was talking about but two so you can swap them out.

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[dice57]

The sonys are a great choice, but on a 18350 I wouldn't run it lower than a 1 ohm build, and personally wouldn't even do that. A .6 ohm build is going to draw 7 amps on a fully charged battery, that will over exceed the 350. A mech with a 18490 is as short or shorter than most regulated mods in 18350 mode.

When going straight mech one wants as much extra leeway on their amp draw as possible. Even a 1 ohm build only give the 350 an amp and a half buffer. Not good. Here's is another Ohms Law Calculator that is good for different applications of ohms law.

 

[JohnD0406]

What's your battery advice for a BaGua 17mm with Arrow? I built a 0.94-ohm single coil, which on a full 4.2V charge is pulling 18.4W & 4.4A. The AW 14500 seems to be rated for 8C/4.8A. Is there a better 14500? How would a dual coil work on the Arrow 17? Several more wraps on each coil, and stay away from sub-ohm?

 

[tj99959]

AW IMR
18650 2000mah 10Amp CDR
18650 1600mah 24A
18490 (1100mah) 16.5A
18350 ​(700mah) 6A

And that really means that you should keep things below
18650 2000mah 5A cd
18650 1600mah 12A cd
18490 1100mah 8.25A cd
18350 700mah 3A cd
just to be safe. Batteries really do perform best if you stick to the middle ground.

I have to speak my mind here and simply say that pushing things to their limits is NOT IN YOUR BEST INTEREST! We have found many ways of avoiding doing that now, so there is no longer the need to do so anyway.

Somehow all of this just seems to be getting crazy!
If you would like to blow a cloud that you can completely hide behind, try this ridicules 2 ohm build, and use up 4 drops of liquid/hit. (used 32ga wire for a mandrel to wrap around (20 minutes to wrap each coil))

ty Robin for the pic

We use to stack batteries ......... there is no longer a need to do so!
We use to do sub ohm builds .... there is no longer a need to do so!

 

[monkkx]

thanks Baditude for this valuable post

 

[Tbev]

And that really means that you should keep things below
18650 2000mah 5A cd
18650 1600mah 12A cd
18490 1100mah 8.25A cd
18350 700mah 3A cd
just to be safe. Batteries really do perform best if you stick to the middle ground.

I have to speak my mind here and simply say that pushing things to their limits is NOT IN YOUR BEST INTEREST! We have found many ways of avoiding doing that now, so there is no longer the need to do so anyway.

Somehow all of this just seems to be getting crazy!
If you would like to blow a cloud that you can completely hide behind, try this ridicules 2 ohm build, and use up 4 drops of liquid/hit. (used 32ga wire for a mandrel to wrap around (20 minutes to wrap each coil))

ty Robin for the pic

We use to stack batteries ......... there is no longer a need to do so!
We use to do sub ohm builds .... there is no longer a need to do so!

What kinda coils are those, wraps, Guage, obviously 0.4ohm each? What are the benefits and how do you wick them? I'm assuming you lay a bed of cotton under?



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[Tbev]

OK 32ga, but what did you wrap it around, id?

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[patrao_n]

I believe it's wrapped around a 32 gauge wire. Unsure of the wire used to make the wraps though.

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[spawnsharks]

I was here to mention the online Ohm's Law calculators, but I see they have been introduced. These are your friend. Use them. Assume 4.2V from your battery, although, in all reality it will be 4.1 off the charger from what I read around here.

Read your head on an ohm meter before firing every time. Regardless if it was the same wire, wraps, mandrel. You are also checking for shorts with this step, and who knows... better safe than a battery exploding in your mouth.

Then, know the amperage of your battery.

Once you have two of the three variables, solve for the third.... You can check the Amperage rating and voltage of your battery to solve for the lowest resistance. You can use the Voltage and Resistance (Ohms) to solve for the amperage draw on your battery. No real need to solve for Voltage, as it's A) constant off the charger and B) variable as the battery drains.

I started by solving for the lowest resistance I can safely use. Not that I go that route, but it's comforting to know how much headroom I have. When unsure about a coil, I solve for Amperage, just to double check that it's safe. I also solve for wattage time to time if I like a particular build on my mech, I can recreate the sweet spot on my VW device.

It's fun! Be safe! Good on you for asking questions before shoving a potential pipe bomb in your mouth.

Happy New Year!

Edit/note: I have found that I really, really like the 1.2-1.4 ohm range for most of my builds. I rebuild my ProTanks heads to this range, as well as my RDA. It's a nice warm vape, plenty thick without an unnatural volume of vapor, and the flavor stays nice. I change wattage depending on juice, but something about the resistance range does it for me. I have tried .9 to 1.0 ohm on the low end, and as high as 3 ohms on the upper end to realize what I like. Play with it... find your sweet spot, regardless of what other people might do or suggest.

 

[vccy118]

Here! Use this handy app when building your coils:
PV Web Apps

The SONY VTC3 is a good choice to start off. 2100mAh, IMR type, 10A safe continuous discharge up to 20A.