Batteries Shmatteries: 18650 excuses why my battery is better than yours

[mudmanc4]

Everyone has their own 'I won't use/buy from anywhere other than {place personal preference here}'

#1: What are you using in your 100W + box mod (18650) single or double
#2: What are you using in your mechanical mod (18650)

The fact remains we take our chances each time we buy a battery. They are all 'real' if you can touch them. Safe? Never said anything about it, nor should anyone be claiming one is more safe than the next.

That 40Amp claim stamped on a few known wraps as far as I am educated, is a pure falsehood, and utterly impossible due to battery technology as of this date.

The trick seems to be, finding the 'best' battery for your style. Then repeating that process when ordering a second time. Oh yes, and not getting a hole gouged through the base of your account, by the supplier claiming they have 'real', real good, 'original', 'here look, see this tiny divot, edge, crease or slight graphical shape difference, that proves it's real kind of malarky, or 'I have a direct line from/to the manufacturer'.

Geezus people as soon as we choose to stop dicking one another around over a few credits in the account, we might make headway.

If your using anything with the word 'fire' in it, Stoppit, immediately. Yes, we all used them. The keyword here, is 'used'. As in past tense, yesteryear, a long time ago, not anymore because we are a tad bit more educated via experience, so no thanks. So please stoppit.

 

[dcfluegel]

#1/ sony vtc4's in my smok x cube II / samsung 25r's in my sig100w plus and sig150w TC box
#2/ sony vtc4's in my el cabron dual box mod... only mech I still use... have a couple stashed as backups (panzer clone, fuhattan... would use vtc4's)

 

[Night_mirror]

Why do you prefer the vtc4 over the Vtc5? I'm just curious as I recently ordered some 5's

 

[dcfluegel]

4's have been rated for higher cdr, according to @Mooch 's bench test - lower mah, but higher amp output... the 5's are very good - better mah, but slightly lower continuous amp rating... i have some 5's also - actually have a set of married 5's in the rotation for the x cube (have 3 sets I rotate, to make sure they get their 'rest' lol) along with two sets of married 4's...

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

I have Samsung 25r's in my Sigelei 150 w, going to use Sony VCT4's in my Smok Cube II. I alwsys look for info from this before buying batteries :

18650 Safety Grades -- Picking a Safe Battery to Vape With | E-Cigarette Forum
All 30A-Capable Batteries Shootout -- Bench Test Results -- Which battery is best? | E-Cigarette Forum
Baditude's blog | E-Cigarette Forum
Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forum

Where to buy
Illumn.com - Flashlights, Batteries, Carry Gear, Intelligent LED Lighting, and More!
Authentic AW Batteries - RTD Vapor
Liion Wholesale Batteries | Li-ion battery distributor
18650 Batteries | Rechargeable Li-ion | Battery Chargers
Earth's #1 source for IMR Batteries, Chargers, Cases & Wraps | IMRbatteries.com

 

[Night_mirror]

Yea I'm running the 25r's with 4 pairs in rotation with my Sigelei 150 TC.

 

[Nikea Tiber]

Sony vct4, all the way. The 25r is a good substitute, but the vct4 is the only sony product I buy anymore.

 

[Hans Wermhat]

VTC4's, VTC4's, ... and VTC4's. Did I mention I like VTC4's?

 

[newvaper92]

Samsung 25r's in my Sigelei 100w plus, also picked up a set of batteries from my local shop that I plan on using only when the 25r's are charging, they are some brand I've never heard of but seem to work fine, no heating up or anything. I usually run around 50-60w.

 

[Night_mirror]

Can someone explain to me why CDR is a factor please? For instance the difference in amp rating between the vtc4 and Vtc5 seems minimal to me. Does it really have that much of an effect vaping at say, 100 watts?

 

[Hans Wermhat]

CDR determines how much power you can safely draw out of the battery. A .5 ohm coil at 4.2V draws 8.4 amps. Safe with most batteries. A .2 ohm coil draws 21 amps. You need a 30A battery to be safe with a build that low. The higher the CDR, the more amps you can draw without the battery going supernova in your hand.

 

[bwh79]

Can someone explain to me why CDR is a factor please?

Because mech mods. If you accidentally set it on a table, or in your pocket, without locking the mod it will (may) end up firing continuously. You want to make sure that, should that happen, the battery will be able to handle the load safely.

 

[Night_mirror]

Because mech mods. If you accidentally set it on a table, or in your pocket, without locking the mod it will (may) end up firing continuously. You want to make sure that, should that happen, the battery will be able to handle the load safely.

I'm not messing with those hand missiles! I'm just trying to quit smoking!

 

[SomeTexan]

A pulse rating is useless. A pulse is measured in milliseconds, not seconds, so in vaping the cdr applys.

 

[somdcomputerguy]

I use an Innokin iTaste 134 mini (a regulated mod ). I use AW IMR batts in it. It only takes one at a time, but I have 1 18350 and 2 18490's.

 

[IMFire3605]

Sig150w and IPV3:
100+ Watts - 3 Paired Sets of LG HB6 (1 Pair) and 2 Pair of Sony VTC4's
Below 100watts - 2 Pairs of Samsung 25R's, 2 Pairs of LG HE4's

IPV2 and VaporShark - 2 Sony VTC5's and 4 LG HE4's

SigMini30w and SVD's - 2 Imren Purples and 2 Samsung 25R's

Mechs I have about 4 LG HB6's and 4 Sony VTC4's


I basically look at the application I need a battery to operate at, then choose accordingly. Yes I have a lot of batteries and cases to store them in, but I am of the mindset of reducing the number of charge/discharge cycles I need to put a battery into as well as not stress a battery to far near its max limits. I was fully on the mech bandwagon for over a year, always a disappointment to need to swap a battery out only to find your batteries were all on the charger or waiting to be charged leaving you no vape other than your backup Ego's until your batteries were charged so got into the habit of having many spares.

 

[Tonkpils]

Sig 150W rotate between Samsung 25R's and LG HE4's. Use Sony VTC4 and VTC5 for my mech mods.

 

[mudmanc4]

Sig150w and IPV3:
100+ Watts - 3 Paired Sets of LG HB6 (1 Pair) and 2 Pair of Sony VTC4's
Below 100watts - 2 Pairs of Samsung 25R's, 2 Pairs of LG HE4's

IPV2 and VaporShark - 2 Sony VTC5's and 4 LG HE4's

SigMini30w and SVD's - 2 Imren Purples and 2 Samsung 25R's

Mechs I have about 4 LG HB6's and 4 Sony VTC4's


I basically look at the application I need a battery to operate at, then choose accordingly. Yes I have a lot of batteries and cases to store them in, but I am of the mindset of reducing the number of charge/discharge cycles I need to put a battery into as well as not stress a battery to far near its max limits. I was fully on the mech bandwagon for over a year, always a disappointment to need to swap a battery out only to find your batteries were all on the charger or waiting to be charged leaving you no vape other than your backup Ego's until your batteries were charged so got into the habit of having many spares.

This!

 

[crxess]

If your using anything with the word 'fire' in it, Stoppit, immediately. Yes, we all used them. The keyword here, is 'used'. As in past tense, yesteryear, a long time ago, not anymore because we are a tad bit more educated via experience, so no thanks. So please stoppit.

Even in my flashlights?

As for the rest of it, I trust in the Battery industry suppliers I choose to use. Though I admit that is My Choice and I also have a few decades with battery experience behind me.(Most don't)

Never Assume anything when it comes to safety.

 

[Mooch]

View attachment 488560

Everyone has their own 'I won't use/buy from anywhere other than {place personal preference here}'

#1: What are you using in your 100W + box mod (18650) single or double
#2: What are you using in your mechanical mod (18650)

The fact remains we take our chances each time we buy a battery. They are all 'real' if you can touch them. Safe? Never said anything about it, nor should anyone be claiming one is more safe than the next.

That 40Amp claim stamped on a few known wraps as far as I am educated, is a pure falsehood, and utterly impossible due to battery technology as of this date.

The trick seems to be, finding the 'best' battery for your style. Then repeating that process when ordering a second time. Oh yes, and not getting a hole gouged through the base of your account, by the supplier claiming they have 'real', real good, 'original', 'here look, see this tiny divot, edge, crease or slight graphical shape difference, that proves it's real kind of malarky, or 'I have a direct line from/to the manufacturer'.

Geezus people as soon as we choose to stop dicking one another around over a few credits in the account, we might make headway.

If your using anything with the word 'fire' in it, Stoppit, immediately. Yes, we all used them. The keyword here, is 'used'. As in past tense, yesteryear, a long time ago, not anymore because we are a tad bit more educated via experience, so no thanks. So please stoppit.

Some great points there!
But I think that there are circumstances where one can say that one battery is safer than another. Not safe, just safer.

In my opinion. IMR and INR batteries are safer than ICR/LiPo. The temperature threshold where IMR/INR goes into thermal runaway is higher than ICR/LiPo. And the temperature of the reaction, if IMR/INR does go into runaway, is a lot lower. This means a very low chance of igniting stuff in the battery and reduces the violence of the runaway. ICR batteries in runaway often ignite the solvent in the electrolyte and the higher reaction temperature raises the internal pressure faster. This can result in a more powerful bursting of the battery, flames, and greater chance of other things being ignited or damaged, including a nearby battery.

I would also argue that a battery that runs at a lower temperature than others is safer. If vaping at 100W, single battery, the temperature of an HB6 can go as high as about 75°C externally. But a VTC4 can rise to as high as about 100°C externally at this power level. This is significantly closer to the temperature where the battery can vent as certain additional exothermic reactions start revving up at about 80°C. Things start melting internally at about 120°C-130°C and the internal temperature is higher than the external temperature. This can lead to internal short circuiting and thermal runaway.

Is an HB6 inherently safer than a VTC4? No.
But it can be safer in an application where its lower operating temperature reduces the risk of something bad happening.