Batteries
- Thread starter Ephraim Cooper
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AstroTurf's calculations says your 0.35 ohm resistance will have a 17.14 "amp draw" on your HexOhm.
Using two batteries in series doubles the voltage (8.4 volts), but the HexOhm limits the total voltage to just 6 usable volts. Using two batteries in series does not double the amp limit or the mAh; the amp limit and capacity is the same as if you were using only a single battery.
So doing the Ohm's Law calculation, the amp draw of a 0.35 resistance and 6 volts is 17 amps. A single VTC4 has a 23 amp limit, so you would not be exceeding the amp limit of that battery.
I don't see where Mooch said the VTC4 is a 30 amp battery. He said it is 23 amps.
Using two batteries in series doubles the voltage (8.4 volts), but the HexOhm limits the total voltage to just 6 usable volts. Using two batteries in series does not double the amp limit or the mAh; the amp limit and capacity is the same as if you were using only a single battery.
So doing the Ohm's Law calculation, the amp draw of a 0.35 resistance and 6 volts is 17 amps. A single VTC4 has a 23 amp limit, so you would not be exceeding the amp limit of that battery.
I don't see where Mooch said the VTC4 is a 30 amp battery. He said it is 23 amps.
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You've been given the links directly to Mooches blogs, videos, tests & charts in this thread and several others.
If you clicked on any of them & read they all clearly show he rates the vtc4's as 23a CDR.
You might be confusing his rating which I would trust the most with label rating.
The label said 40 amp batteries, but Imren is a Chinese manufacturer who exaggerates the specs of their batteries. They buy inferior cells for cheap and rewrap them and place a label with inflated ratings. The Imren batteries that Mooch tested came out to be a 20 amp battery. However, Chinese rewrappers can change the cell they use at any given time, and may use an even worse battery. That's why we said to get better batteries than Imren. There is no way to know what cell they used or what the amp limit is.
This was clearly pointed out in my Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded or Aftermarket) Battery? and in Mooch's video on Chinese battery manufacturers.
Did you read or watch either?
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Um, OP I think you are a bit confused about what Mooch is DOING. He TESTS batteries to find out if their advertised SPECS are ACCURATE or NOT. So Mooch is NOT RECOMMENDING the battery you have, although I think his testing showed it to be a fairly decent battery with slightly overinflated specs.
That is not at all UNUSUAL in the battery world, battery makers OFTEN inflate their specs a bit, they want to look good to the buyer (on reason why rewraps and fakes are so prevalent in the battery world ATM, everyone wants those HIGH numbers at any price, quite often).
The only thing Mooch actually RECOMMENDS are particular VENDORS or sellers of batteries. He will test and rate a battery and say stuff like, "Don't buy this one, it's advertised at 40 A and it tests at 12, AVOID THIS BATTERY." etc. , or more positive STUFF, like the battery you have which performed well under tests but did not meet its ADVERTIZED RATING, which is quite, quite common in the vaping world.
You should purchase the battery you CHOOSE based on what type of vaping you want, and Mooch makes things easier for vapers by TESTING said batteries.
So, your battery (per Mooch) is good for 23A which isn't really bad especially for an 18650 battery but you cannot PRETEND it is 30A because it says so on the label. That is rarely how it works. Sorry.
What people are asking now is "Where did you buy it?" because not only can the manufacturer themselves inflate the ratings a bit, unscrupulous vendors can and often do buy rejected batteries that failed quality control during the manufacturing process, and put a similar wrap on it to hide the fact they did that and etc. Which is even worse, because if you don't know for sure that it's genuine, you may be running a 10 A battery under the mistaken impression that it is a Genuine Sony 23A rated battery.
You don't want to do that.
Anna
Also can we drop Aspire and Mooch hate or not hate? This is muddled enough frankly.
That is not at all UNUSUAL in the battery world, battery makers OFTEN inflate their specs a bit, they want to look good to the buyer (on reason why rewraps and fakes are so prevalent in the battery world ATM, everyone wants those HIGH numbers at any price, quite often).
The only thing Mooch actually RECOMMENDS are particular VENDORS or sellers of batteries. He will test and rate a battery and say stuff like, "Don't buy this one, it's advertised at 40 A and it tests at 12, AVOID THIS BATTERY." etc. , or more positive STUFF, like the battery you have which performed well under tests but did not meet its ADVERTIZED RATING, which is quite, quite common in the vaping world.
You should purchase the battery you CHOOSE based on what type of vaping you want, and Mooch makes things easier for vapers by TESTING said batteries.
So, your battery (per Mooch) is good for 23A which isn't really bad especially for an 18650 battery but you cannot PRETEND it is 30A because it says so on the label. That is rarely how it works. Sorry.
What people are asking now is "Where did you buy it?" because not only can the manufacturer themselves inflate the ratings a bit, unscrupulous vendors can and often do buy rejected batteries that failed quality control during the manufacturing process, and put a similar wrap on it to hide the fact they did that and etc. Which is even worse, because if you don't know for sure that it's genuine, you may be running a 10 A battery under the mistaken impression that it is a Genuine Sony 23A rated battery.
You don't want to do that.
Anna
Also can we drop Aspire and Mooch hate or not hate? This is muddled enough frankly.
Funny old world we live in !.
You'd think, with such concerned governments such as USA & EU, that they'd be more focused on regulation of battery manufacture and battery retail than silly old e liquid, ecig regulation. I've not heard a single word from any politian or government department about regulations of the things that power e cigs. They want to regulate everything else, apart from the batteries ?!.
What crappy governments we have.
You'd think, with such concerned governments such as USA & EU, that they'd be more focused on regulation of battery manufacture and battery retail than silly old e liquid, ecig regulation. I've not heard a single word from any politian or government department about regulations of the things that power e cigs. They want to regulate everything else, apart from the batteries ?!.
What crappy governments we have.
So you go to an ecig vendor, and the first thing you find is a disclaimer which asks for age verification.
So yeah, you are old enough to buy some unregulated, dodgy as hell batteries which will probably blow up in your face. But as long as you're 18 then that's ok.
So yeah, you are old enough to buy some unregulated, dodgy as hell batteries which will probably blow up in your face. But as long as you're 18 then that's ok.
I purchased Samsung batteries that were tested true 30 amp by mooch.
@AstroTurf showed that with what you run, it is fine.
When you were told about 30A batteries, it was said they would be needed to get max power out of the hex ohm (180w), since all you were talking about was "most powerful" and such in your posts. You do not run it at max power (your at 103w) so 30a is overkill for your vape style. I even told you specifically 20a batteries would be fine for the way you use the hex ohm. But the batteries you now purchased is much better than the ones you had and with a bit more of a safety buffer zone, since you will be a bit farther under the CDR than with your old batteries. Well worth the effort and money in my opinion.
You should carefully read the things told to you, as it seems you have been picking out certain things said and ignoring other things.
When you were told about 30A batteries, it was said they would be needed to get max power out of the hex ohm (180w), since all you were talking about was "most powerful" and such in your posts. You do not run it at max power (your at 103w) so 30a is overkill for your vape style. I even told you specifically 20a batteries would be fine for the way you use the hex ohm. But the batteries you now purchased is much better than the ones you had and with a bit more of a safety buffer zone, since you will be a bit farther under the CDR than with your old batteries. Well worth the effort and money in my opinion.
You should carefully read the things told to you, as it seems you have been picking out certain things said and ignoring other things.
Especially since rewrapped batteries (alleged) were at least partially responsible for the hoverboard fires, with LOSS OF LIVES AND PROPERTY!
But I don't think this is the place for this discussion.
I run my hex ohm on full power all the time. Batterystore.com is sending me samsung 20S. Mooch rates them at 30 amp batteries. I looked it up.
You run it full power with a 0.35 ohm coil. That limits your power to 103w, you come nowhere near its max output. You have a lot to learn about mechs, and should really get to learning.
Os .35 good to ohm out at. Ive always ohmed out above 3 to save on battery life. I dont like low ohm builds. They get to hot.
How did u calculate 103 watts? What build do u need to reach its max?
If your asking these questions, you shouldn't be using such a device yet. Please do your self a great favor and research ohms law, and mech safety.
Ill always be safe cause I never ever change my build. I use the same coils and the same ohms everytime. I found what I like and Ive stuck with it.
As long as I never change Ill never have an issue. I have rolls of the same wire I always use.
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