Battery help!

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amp79423

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I'm new to mechs, don't sub ohm, and build my coils to 1.5 ish ohms. I've had a nemesis clone for a week and had a bit of a scary experience last night. I had an efest imr 18650 in it and noticed the vapor was dropping off. I took the battery out, checked the voltage and it was at 3.65, so I popped it on the charger and put in a freshly charged 18350. I was using my Russian 91 with a 1.6 ohm microcoil. Get it set up and push the fire button. Very little vapor so I do it again and notice the button is getting warm. Pop out the battery and it's warm, almost to the point of hot, to the touch so I put it on the concrete in the backyard. Got out my provari and attached my atty. got an op error. Any thoughts as to what could have happened here? I'm at a total loss. Everything's working fine, I swap battery sizes and it all goes to hell.


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State O' Flux

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I popped it on the charger and put in a freshly charged 18350. I was using my Russian 91 with a 1.6 ohm microcoil. Get it set up and push the fire button. Very little vapor so I do it again and notice the button is getting warm.

Got out my provari and attached my atty. got an op error. Any thoughts as to what could have happened here? I'm at a total loss. Everything's working fine, I swap battery sizes and it all goes to hell.
> First paragraph indicates the beginnings of a dead short in the mech... possibly the button. As much or more resistance in the mech as in the atty.
Disassemble, identify shorted surfaces (burn" marks), if needed lightly sand/polish clean the shorted surfaces to original finish, clean and reassemble.
Test mech button assembly (and mech as a whole) for continuity with DMM - should be zero ohms, less internal resistance.

> First and second sentences in second paragraph. "Op Error" is the Provari reading infinite resistance, an "open circuit" - may indicate a burned to separation coil.
Possible shorted to ground kayfun as well. Check to make sure positive block (aka - "coil build deck") is correctly tightened to atty body - positive block may be rotating and contacting atty body (negative) when atty is installed/tightened to mech.

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amp79423

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Here's what happened. Opened up the Russian and sure enough the positive deck had been twisted to where it was making contact with the negative deck, causing the short. Thanks again for the help. I'm assuming that I don't want to use that 18350 that was in the mech when it happened anymore, right?


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State O' Flux

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Here's what happened. Opened up the Russian and sure enough the positive deck had been twisted to where it was making contact with the negative deck, causing the short. Thanks again for the help. I'm assuming that I don't want to use that 18350 that was in the mech when it happened anymore, right?
No problemo, amp.

I see this issue often... especially if one gets a brand new KF and because they want to get started with it right away, doesn't take it completely apart, clean, reassemble and properly tighten the air tube/block screw.
With the plastic insulator (assuming they are adequately tightened in the first place), I think they "crush" a bit when assembled from the factory and the torque loosens enough to let the block turn.
Even some that have been disassembled and re-tightened will loosen over time... just one of those things. ;-)

It certainly didn't do the battery any good as far as life expectancy, but if it has not discolored or distorted, and when recharging it doesn't get hot... and it charges to "4.teens" volt range, then you can still use it, but IMO, more a back-up than a primary battery. Your call... it's not like they cost an arm and leg.
Now would be a good time to try out one of the new Efest high drain "purple" batteries. Maybe still not as good as genuine AW, but certainly the best Efest yet.
 
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