BB what size 3v batts to use?

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PurKat

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Quick1

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I use those batteries. You should know that the protected CR2s will not work with atomizers/cartomizers with a resistance below 3.0 ohms. Most all regular 510s are below 3.0 ohms. Most 901s are at 3.0 to 3.1 ohms although I have run into 901s at 2.8 and 2.9 ohms. Most KR808D cartomizers are at 3.0 ohms or a bit more although I have run into a box or two that were down closer to 2.6 to 2.8 ohms.
 

Quick1

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I heard a bunch about it not working with 510 atty and cartos. Maybe it has to do with older BBs? i can't comfirm that but i can certainly confirm that the one i have (recieved it about a week ago) DOES work without a problem with 510 Attys and Cartos

First let's make sure we're talking about the same batteries. These ones:

LC CR2/15266 Li-Ion Battery, 3 Volts, 800 mAH

It has to do with the protection circuit tripping due to current draw. It's possible that there is some variation in their protection circuit so that the over current threshold is different from one battery to the next but I'd find it unlikely that it would vary that much. If you are using the same batteries then it's much more likely that your 510s and cartos are 3 ohms or more.

A new BB might even be worse in that respect. They come with the new hotspring which is going to result in maybe 0.2 to 0.3 LESS ohms resistance in the circuit. The older BBs use the stainless spring which is what I have in mine.

Have you checked the resistance of your attys and cartos?
 

Cuffss

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I'm actually using

TR CR2/15270 800mah 3.0v Batteries
(i got these off some random battery seller online)

let e get back to you on the resistances since i dont have a meter at my home. Gonna have to run to pops house for that thing.
Though i haven't had a problem on any of my attys or cartos. I've even tried some new ones. The attys are your standard JOYE 510's and the cartos are the DEKANG made black hard tip ones retailed from Eastmall.
 

Quick1

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I'm actually using

TR CR2/15270 800mah 3.0v Batteries
(i got these off some random battery seller online)

Ahh, those are 15270s and the others are 15266s.
MadVapes has the 15270s listed as being 29 mm. That has to be a fairly tight fit. Can you get the threads all the way closed? I have the 15266s which are supposed to be 28 mm. They fit well but then again, I just put a micrometer on them and they measure 28.8 mm...

Drat... maybe I should have ordered the 15270s?
 

PurKat

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I use those batteries. You should know that the protected CR2s will not work with atomizers/cartomizers with a resistance below 3.0 ohms. Most all regular 510s are below 3.0 ohms. Most 901s are at 3.0 to 3.1 ohms although I have run into 901s at 2.8 and 2.9 ohms. Most KR808D cartomizers are at 3.0 ohms or a bit more although I have run into a box or two that were down closer to 2.6 to 2.8 ohms.


Thanks for the great advice! :toast:

So what type of atty do you use, with the protected CR2s? Are there any Cartomizers that can be used with the protected CR2s? :unsure:
 

PurKat

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Ahh, those are 15270s and the others are 15266s.
MadVapes has the 15270s listed as being 29 mm. That has to be a fairly tight fit. Can you get the threads all the way closed? I have the 15266s which are supposed to be 28 mm. They fit well but then again, I just put a micrometer on them and they measure 28.8 mm...

Drat... maybe I should have ordered the 15270s?


Are there different types of Micrometers? Where can I get one?

Thanks!
 

Quick1

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Thanks for the great advice! :toast:

So what type of atty do you use, with the protected CR2s? Are there any Cartomizers that can be used with the protected CR2s? :unsure:

Most all of my 901s are 3.0 - 3.1 ohms and work. A few are 2.8 and 2.9 ohms and I use them on my pass through.

A bit more than half my KR808D cartomizers are 3.0 - 3.2 ohms and work. Although more than half of the last 3 boxes I got are anywhere from 2.6 - 2.8 ohms. Haven't figured out yet if it's just random or not. Let's find out first if there might be a difference between the 15266 battery and the 15270 battery (they might just be exactly the same with different wrappers). If they both fit fine and if maybe there is a difference in the protection circuit threshold.

Are there different types of Micrometers? Where can I get one?
There are all kinds of micrometers :). I use these ones for household stuff. Very inexpensive but not recommended if you're going to do something like stroke your engine.


Amazon.com: Neiko Stainless Steel 6" Digital Caliper with Extra-Large LCD Screen - Instant SAE-Metric Conversion: Home…
 

nawcho

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What are you saying, you gotta understand this thread is getting pretty confusing.

Lets say I wanted a BB so I could run LR 901's and 510's at 3.7 and then switch for cr2's to run regular atomizers at 6 volts. Am I going to need a spread sheet to decide which atomizer can be used with what device and with what battery?

Do the Non protected cr2's have the same restrictions as ohms that the protected ones do?

Which batteries would I need if i waned to run the setups I previously listed, thanks in advance.
 

gratefulbuddy

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doots

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What are you saying, you gotta understand this thread is getting pretty confusing.

Lets say I wanted a BB so I could run LR 901's and 510's at 3.7 and then switch for cr2's to run regular atomizers at 6 volts. Am I going to need a spread sheet to decide which atomizer can be used with what device and with what battery?

Do the Non protected cr2's have the same restrictions as ohms that the protected ones do?

Which batteries would I need if i waned to run the setups I previously listed, thanks in advance.

I would never run lr attys at 6v. you will pop them fast.
I have run, before i knew the dangers, cr2s in the bb, but wouldnt do it now to save my life unless they are protected..

if you want to do 6v it is best to use the cr2s that are protected. they do not last long though. Probably an hour or so per charge if you are a heavy hitter. use reg or hv attys. I prefer HV attys at that voltage.

You would do best to get another mod to do 6v that takes the cr123a battys. much longer charge and safer imo.
 

nawcho

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I would never run lr attys at 6v. you will pop them fast.
I have run, before i knew the dangers, cr2s in the bb, but wouldnt do it now to save my life unless they are protected..

if you want to do 6v it is best to use the cr2s that are protected. they do not last long though. Probably an hour or so per charge if you are a heavy hitter. use reg or hv attys. I prefer HV attys at that voltage.

You would do best to get another mod to do 6v that takes the cr123a battys. much longer charge and safer imo.


You missunderstand, I want to use the LR atties at 3.7, and normal ones at 6v. I want a small silver device that can do this. My protege/prodigy are broken pos's and i need something new to fill the gap.
 

Quick1

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What are you saying, you gotta understand this thread is getting pretty confusing.

Lets say I wanted a BB so I could run LR 901's and 510's at 3.7 and then switch for cr2's to run regular atomizers at 6 volts. Am I going to need a spread sheet to decide which atomizer can be used with what device and with what battery?

Well, maybe not :). It's just that with these particular batteries it's an edge case (see below). Couple that with the fact that quality control/consistency in the manufacturer of atomizers varys often and a lot.

Do the Non protected cr2's have the same restrictions as ohms that the protected ones do?

No. They do not have the same restrictions.

With Li-Ion batteries you can ruin them or blow them up (also ruins them :)) by using them outside of their designed operating range.
* Under Charge -- run them down too far and they won't take a charge again. ruined.
* Over Charge -- continue to apply current after they're fully charged and ... I'm not sure what happens but it's not good. I think they swell and possibly blow up?
* Over Current -- draw too large of a current for some amount of time and they will overheat and ... blow up.

A typical protection circuit will prevent the battery from getting into the above 3 conditions. It does this by electrically disconnecting the battery internally. Non-protected batteries do not have this safeguard.

The issue is not directly with ohms (resistance) but with current. The over current condition above. Ohm's law says
I = V/R
I = current (in Amps)
V = voltage (in Volts)
R = resistance (in Ohms)

The protection circuits are set to trip at some current. So given a voltage and a resistance you end up drawing some current. If that current is too large then the circuit in the battery trips (those circuits are like an automatic fuse... over current it disconnects and once the current goes below the threshold it reconnects).
Voltage -- what you're getting from your batteries
Resistance -- provided by the atomizer (that's why they get hot)
Current -- what ends up going through the above circuit.

There isn't much you can do to regulate the voltage of the batteries you're using but if you use an atomizer with a larger resistance then there will be a lower current flowing through the circuit --> hopefully lower than what trips the protection circuit in the batteries.

The ones I have will work with atomizers with a resistance of 3.0 ohms and above. Less resistance draws more current and trips the protection circuit. $20 - $30 bucks and you can buy a decent digital multimeter suitable for this and a multitude of uses around the house. Simple to check your batteries, check the resistance of your atomizers, check if that atomizer is dead (huge resistance or zero resistance) or if it just that your battery is done or stuff like that for trouble shooting.

Which batteries would I need if i waned to run the setups I previously listed, thanks in advance.

For the BB:
14500 3.7v protected for 3.7v vaping with regular or LR atomizers/cartomizers
2 x CR2 3.0v (hopefully protected) for 6v+ vaping with regular or hv atomizers.

The thing with non-protected Li-Ions is that you really should know about them and you have to pay attention. You want to be sure your battery charger actually cuts off when the battery is fully charged at 4.2v (or less), that it doesn't "trickle" charge after that, that you don't run your batteries down to where you ruin them (should be able to tell when they get weak but...), if you manage to short them, either outside of the device or inside the device they will get HOT in a hurry and, if you don't remove the short condition, likely explode or vent flames or something not good.

Our e-cig application really stresses these small batteries drawing currents at the top or exceeding their designed operating range. That's mitigated somewhat due to the "pulsed" usage -- it's not continuous like it would be in a flashlight but we're still stressing the batteries.

Another note is that Li-Ion cells operate roughly in the range of 3.6v (drained) to 4.2v (fully charged). So if you have a Li-Ion battery that actually puts out 3.0v or 3.2v or less than the above, that is being done by voltage regulation circuitry inside the battery (something like that).

hope that helps :unsure:
 

Cuffss

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Quick1 yes the 15270's fit great they effortlessly go right in. (yeah thats what she said)

heres a pic. Not sure how well you can see the fit but its good.

IMG00007-20100616-1308.jpg
 
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