Best long lasting batteries

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Boden

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This is .25 ohms and my ipv4 runs it at 4.47 Volts to make 80W. That's about 18A. That's why I say 30A batteries for 80W. A 20A battery would be at it's limits and past what I would call safe.

That's a series box I believe. At 80W with the batteries at low charge (6.4V) it would be drawing 12.5A + ~1A for converter inefficiency.

At full charge (8.2V) 80W = 9.75A + ~1A
 

thedeval

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The resistance of the coil does not matter with a regulated mod. 35W is 35W.

You only need two numbers. Wattage desired and battery voltage. I use whatever voltage the batteries are at when the mod says they need to be recharged as the battery voltage in this equation. Generally around 3.2V per cell.

In a series box I use 6.4V.

So if I want to calculate current draw (A) at 50W the math is W/V = A or 50W/6.4V = 7.8A

I also add 10% for converter inefficiencies. So that makes it 8.58A at 50W.

yes... you are correct... 35 Watts is 35 watts....
but the coil does effect a regulated mod...
If I run a coil of 1.78 ohm with 6.8V, I get 3.7 "Amps" over the coil which equals 25.5 Watts....
"AND">>>> if I run a coil of .49 ohms with 3.6V, I get 7.1 "Amps" over the coil which is still equal to 25.5 Watts...

what I said in my post was that the "AMPS" will change depending on the coil... not the watts...
I am setting the same wattage on my Box... and letting it do what is needed to get up to that number... ie... adjusting the voltage to deal with the resistor (coil) in the circuit.

so to be clear... while watts may not change based on the resistance... the Amperage needed to achieve that Wattage will, and it is done via "voltage" in respect to the Resistance...

and again... what I said was "Amps will change a little based on the Coil"

maybe this will help?
Difference Between Amps and Watts | Difference Between | Amps vs Watts
 
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Mooch

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    Boden

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    yes... you are correct... 35 Watts is 35 watts....
    but the coil does effect a regulated mod...
    If I run a coil of 1.78 ohm with 6.8V, I get 3.7 "Amps" over the coil which equals 25.5 Watts....
    "AND">>>> if I run a coil of .49 ohms with 3.6V, I get 7.1 "Amps" over the coil which is still equal to 25.5 Watts...

    what I said in my post was that the "AMPS" will change depending on the coil... not the watts...
    I am setting the same wattage on my Box... and letting it do what is needed to get up to that number... ie... adjusting the voltage to deal with the resistor (coil) in the circuit.

    so to be clear... while watts may not change based on the resistance... the Amperage needed to achieve that Wattage will, and it is done via "voltage" in respect to the Resistance...

    and again... what I said was "Amps will change a little based on the Coil"

    maybe this will help?
    Difference Between Amps and Watts | Difference Between | Amps vs Watts
    That's the current going through the coil not the battery draw.
     

    thedeval

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    That's the current going through the coil not the battery draw.

    OK.. now you may have me... ??? but isn't the current through the coil, coming from the battery, via the regulator circuit?

    ie... why you need two 4.2V batteries in series to get a voltage greater than 4V.... cause you need voltages of greater than 4V to push the amps high enough to get to the wattage needed to glow the thick gauge wires...
     

    Boden

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    OK.. now you may have me... ??? but isn't the current through the coil, coming from the battery, via the regulator circuit?

    ie... why you need two 4.2V batteries in series to get a voltage greater than 4V.... cause you need voltages of greater than 4V to push the amps high enough to get to the wattage needed to glow the thick gauge wires...


    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck–boost_converter
     

    Hans Wermhat

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    That's a series box I believe. At 80W with the batteries at low charge (6.4V) it would be drawing 12.5A + ~1A for converter inefficiency.
    The state of the charge on the batteries doesn't matter in a regulated mod except when it falls below the cutoff point. The mod uses the same voltage out of a battery to make the wattage regardless of the remaining charge until there isn't enough charge left to make the wattage. My iPV4 will stop firing .25 ohms at 80W+ when the batteries get down to around 3.5V but it will continue to fire a 1.8 ohm build at 20W with batteries below 3.0V.
     

    thedeval

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    ok... so you have basically shown me what we in my field call a "charge pump or push-pull"... (at least at a glace)...

    it takes a smaller voltage, and multiplies it up to a greater voltage.... sure... but what it does not tell you.. ( guessing here, cause if it did, I don't think you would have posted it?) is that "charge pumps" while boasting voltage, do it basically at the experience of current.

    so to put it another way... a normal tungsten type light bulb that draws lets say 4V... still takes more current to light up than a 15V LED.. agreed???

    just because I build a charge pump that puts out 30V does not mean I will be able to light the 4V bulb if the current is limited to some small number...

    there are a ton of tricks to mess with voltage... and current for that matter... but energy is energy... and the batteries are where the energy comes from for a MOD... Mech or Reg...
     
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    thedeval

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    The state of the charge on the batteries doesn't matter in a regulated mod except when it falls below the cutoff point. The mod uses the same voltage out of a battery to make the wattage regardless of the remaining charge until there isn't enough charge left to make the wattage. My iPV4 will stop firing .25 ohms at 80W+ when the batteries get down to around 3.5V but it will continue to fire a 1.8 ohm build at 20W with batteries below 3.0V.

    yep... that is a regulator circuits job... takes a higher (and often noisy/fluctuating voltage) and acts like a funnel ... only putting out a set voltage... regardless of what and how the input changes.... it does this up to the point that the input is at or lower than the output...

    final... someone gets it.. 8)
     

    Boden

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    The state of the charge on the batteries doesn't matter in a regulated mod except when it falls below the cutoff point. The mod uses the same voltage out of a battery to make the wattage regardless of the remaining charge until there isn't enough charge left to make the wattage. My iPV4 will stop firing .25 ohms at 80W+ when the batteries get down to around 3.5V but it will continue to fire a 1.8 ohm build at 20W with batteries below 3.0V.
    The state of charge matters when calculating current draw from the battery.

    Say a series regulated mod is set to 50W. At full charge the cells (in series) output 8.4V. At low charge 6.4V.

    I'm going to leave out regulator inefficiencies for this example.

    50W/8.2V = 5.95A draw from the battery

    At low charge
    50W/6.4V = 7.81A draw

    As the battery voltage goes down the amp draw to keep the wattage the same goes up.
     

    thedeval

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    The state of charge matters when calculating current draw from the battery.

    Say a series regulated mod is set to 50W. At full charge the cells (in series) output 8.4V. At low charge 6.4V.

    I'm going to leave out regulator inefficiencies for this example.

    50W/8.2V = 5.95A draw from the battery

    At low charge
    50W/6.4V = 7.81A draw

    As the battery voltage goes down the amp draw to keep the wattage the same goes up.

    actually... the op amps ability to output this required current draw has as much to do with this as the "storied charge". as stated with the light bulb post... more voltage is only a part of the equation...
    in a mech mod... there is no circuit, so the draw is felt directly on the battery... in a Reg Mod... the draw is being controlled by the regulator circuit... via fets/op amps transistors etc... so the full current draw will not be felt on the batteries in a Reg mod... not until the batteries stored energy is equal or less than the amount that the Regulated circuit is trying to put out...

    cause when i pop new batteries in my Reg Box... and set the wattage.... (same wattage.. cough cough) the amps it (cough cough) calculates to get there is much less than what the batteries could do if there were shorted out... ie... what is being done in a mech mod... which is what and why the coil is important in a mech Vs. a Reg... Regardless... Amps are adjusted/or changing in both... (cough cough)
     

    Boden

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    actually... the op amps ability to output this required current draw has as much to do with this as the "storied charge". as stated with the light bulb post... more voltage is only a part of the equation...
    in a mech mod... there is no circuit, so the draw is felt directly on the battery... in a Reg Mod... the draw is being controlled by the regulator circuit... via fets/op amps transistors etc... so the full current draw will not be felt on the batteries in a Reg mod... not until the batteries stored energy is equal or less than the amount that the Regulated circuit is trying to put out...

    cause when i pop new batteries in my Reg Box... and set the wattage.... (same wattage.. cough cough) the amps it (cough cough) calculates to get there is much less than what the batteries could do if there were shorted out... ie... what is being done in a mech mod... which is what and why the coil is important in a mech Vs. a Reg... Regardless... Amps are adjusted/or changing in both... (cough cough)
    o_O ??? Are you ok?
     

    thedeval

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    o_O ??? Are you ok?

    uhmm... absolutely not... hahaha I have been in the electronics field for 20 plus years... and there is no one that has been in that line of work for that long that can claim they are "ok"... it is a bye-product of the nature of the job... hahaha

    I got screws falling out all over the place... let a lone being lose.... 8)
     
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    Hans Wermhat

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    As the battery voltage goes down the amp draw to keep the wattage the same goes up.
    True, but the output voltage from the mod to make the watts based on resistance doesn't change as the battery drains. Are you saying the chip draws a different voltage as the battery drains to put out the same voltage? Doesn't make sense to me.
     

    edyle

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    OK.. now you may have me... ??? but isn't the current through the coil, coming from the battery, via the regulator circuit?

    ie... why you need two 4.2V batteries in series to get a voltage greater than 4V.... cause you need voltages of greater than 4V to push the amps high enough to get to the wattage needed to glow the thick gauge wires...

    The current through the coil is coming from the output circuit of the electronics chip.
    It is different from the current drawn from the battery to the input side of the electronics chip.

    It's like a transformer; on one side there is high current and low voltage, and the other side has high voltage with low current.
    The conserved quantity is the watts, which is volts x amps on each side.
     

    Boden

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    True, but the output voltage from the mod to make the watts based on resistance doesn't change as the battery drains. Are you saying the chip draws a different voltage as the battery drains to put out the same voltage? Doesn't make sense to me.
    The amp draw goes up as the battery voltage goes down to keep a constant wattage output at the coil.
     

    Hans Wermhat

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    I'm an electrician. Very familiar with transformers. But I have never seen one that varies it's draw on the line side to output the same current to the load side. They draw one fixed amount of power to make a fixed amount of power. You can adjust what comes out of the load side, but they will always draw the same amount from the line side to make the desired output.
     

    thedeval

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    The current through the coil is coming from the output circuit of the electronics chip.
    It is different from the current drawn from the battery to the input side of the electronics chip.

    It's like a transformer; on one side there is high current and low voltage, and the other side has high voltage with low current.
    The conserved quantity is the watts, which is volts x amps on each side.

    it is different in terms of the actual "value or size/number" but, it is still water from the same river even if you build a dame in the middle of it or not... and i don't think you will have a current in the coil that is bigger then what is being felt on the battery... because you can't have a bigger river flowing out then what is going in... not unless you build a reservoir on the output side... ie, a second storage tank, ie. basically, a second battery... and what would be the point of that?

    what are we trying to prove here??? lol

    that the calculation to see what the current draw is really calculating the coils current or the batteries ability?

    I know what the ability of the battery is... "it's posted/printed" on the datasheet... I want to know what the Mod is pulling off what ever I put in it... right?
     
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    edyle

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    I'm an electrician. Very familiar with transformers. But I have never seen one that varies it's draw on the line side to output the same current to the load side. They draw one fixed amount of power to make a fixed amount of power. You can adjust what comes out of the load side, but they will always draw the same amount from the line side to make the desired output.

    It's like a transformer; on one side there is high current and low voltage, and the other side has high voltage with low current.
    But it is not a transformer.
     
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