I use primarily a Hellfire Mini and a Silver Dog. All I have now is 325 mesh. Anyone have any input as to the best way to roll a wick for optimal wicking of high VG juice? I am rolling an almost solid wick currently, and it seems to dry out too fast. I have tried the straw wick (hollow) also, just can't seem to get a read on what wicks the best. Thanks! Happy Christmas!
Best possible Genesis wick.
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I personally use 500 SS mesh rolled solid and don't have any issues with 100% VG. I realize you were asking for methods of rolling 325, but I had the same problems with 325. After switching to 500, my wicks stay pretty wet. This is in a cobra clone with a pretty small wick hole though. I don't have any experience with the attys you mentioned.
I don't have any experience with what you have, but the videos I've seen show a hollow wick with the pv held horizontal while vaping. It's also been said that the hollow wick tends to darken juices faster that the solid wick. It might be worth while to pick up some 500 for a solid wick.
I can not get 100% vg to wick in my did clones with both 325 and 400. I tryed tight wicks loose wicks with various size center holes even drilled out the wick hole to 1/8th. I ak currently waiting on some 500 from coop we will see how that goes.
all i can say is for my gennys, real DID and an aga-t, that 500 rolled really tight works excellent. i mean i cram 4-1/2 in of mesh into the wick. and both work awesome. now i just recieved an ac-9 and having problems with the flavor, not really burnt, but just no taste. so i talked to rip and told me that that genny is designed for 325 and the dimensions for the wick is like 40x45mm, thats like 2 in. so i am trying out this set-up. so it just goes to show you that different gennys may respond to different set-ups. good luck
i havent had time to twist one up yet (dont need a new wick yet lol) but lots of peeps talking up the 500 for wicking like a straw.
never use fill plugs nothing wicks good with those inUnderwhelmed:8159901 said:
Ok, I might be in the minority here ( not sure, maybe not!), but I run the same setup in my Boba's atty as I do in my other atties- A lightly-oxidized (only the top half), completely solid, hole-filling 400 mesh wick. Currently the NGP is my Boba's device, and I always use my fill screws. I never feel the need to tilt, at least until the tank is nearly empty. The coil is a 0.9 ohm, 4/5 wrap of 28 kanthal. Why does it keep wicking continuously, without the need to tip, and never give dry hits? Why can I leave the fill screw in without creating air-lock (which I always thought was reality, and not a myth)? I actually can't answer these things accurately. Possibly, it has everything to do with excellent capillary action...but the air-lock thing still confuses me, because this tank is *sealed*...
anyway, my
anyway, my
Ok, I might be in the minority here ( not sure, maybe not!), but I run the same setup in my Boba's atty as I do in my other atties- A lightly-oxidized (only the top half), completely solid, hole-filling 400 mesh wick. Currently the NGP is my Boba's device, and I always use my fill screws. I never feel the need to tilt, at least until the tank is nearly empty. The coil is a 0.9 ohm, 4/5 wrap of 28 kanthal. Why does it keep wicking continuously, without the need to tip, and never give dry hits? Why can I leave the fill screw in without creating air-lock (which I always thought was reality, and not a myth)? I actually can't answer these things accurately. Possibly, it has everything to do with excellent capillary action...but the air-lock thing still confuses me, because this tank is *sealed*...
anyway, my
i am using basically the same set-up. 28g/.09ohms/ around 3.5 volts. i am currently oxidizing my wicks. using 500 mesh rolled tight, no hole. it wicks awesome, dont have to tilt. never dry hits. when i used to use less mesh with larger holes, i would vape a few times,then tilt for a couple of pulls, then it would slightly flood, so i would have to vape again vertical a couple of times. the process would repeat.
Interestingly, unlike the differences between, say, 325 and 400 mesh, most types of 400 and 500 mesh that I've come across use the same-diameter steel strands in their construction. The only difference is the tightness of the weave.
I'm not sure, but I think 635 uses smaller-diameter strands.
I always leave the fill plug in and it wicks perfectly. I can chain vape without tilting.
If you have to take the fill plug out, you are probably relying on gravity to feed your juice, not capillary action. I'm guessing you also have to tilt the device to get the wick wet. Try using a solid (not tube) wick of 500 mesh and only oxidize it lightly, and only on the tip, after you roll it. This should solve your problems and then you can leave the fill plug in so it won't leak.
If you have to take the fill plug out, you are probably relying on gravity to feed your juice, not capillary action. I'm guessing you also have to tilt the device to get the wick wet. Try using a solid (not tube) wick of 500 mesh and only oxidize it lightly, and only on the tip, after you roll it. This should solve your problems and then you can leave the fill plug in so it won't leak.
I can't remember the guys name exactly but if you search for un oxidized mesh wick set up it's pretty interesting and it works great too. Everyone and everything is different. You can try some set ups and they won't work then you try another and bam! Vapping clouds if pleasure.
The DIDs have large wick holes. 3.5mm. I use about 100mm of 500 mesh in them, and use the fill screw. I never have a wicking problem with them. Some of my other RBAs don't even have threaded fill holes or fill screws. ZAPs don't, nor do the Bliss.
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