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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
- Thread starter turbocad6
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Let's see if we can embed that:
Obviously a stolen picture, then watermarked to try to dissuade the next generation of thieves.
Shameless, ain't it?
Obviously a stolen picture, then watermarked to try to dissuade the next generation of thieves.
Shameless, ain't it?
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Just doing the final polish and tweak on mod from a new material for me...my dad gave me some stuff called DymondWood...like a stabilized burl it's a polymeric resin impregnated laminated wood product that's been heat pressed instead of de-gassed with a vacuum. It machines like lexan and it pretty tough...and takes a polish nicely (the only thing you can do, it won't take a stain or any other coating...which includes juice)....only issue I had is matching the laminate layers with the door.
For my first crack at working with this stuff I just kept it simple and made a Woodvilesque type mod...I did my usual hybrid rda (Magma) and beryllium contact.
For my first crack at working with this stuff I just kept it simple and made a Woodvilesque type mod...I did my usual hybrid rda (Magma) and beryllium contact.
That's the size of the atty George Tom is gettin them and modding for BF
ha, that's funny, and they watermarked it too 
I had that happen to me with a car I had pics of on a forum, they stole my pics for some ebay adds and they watermarked pics of my car claiming it was there work
I had that happen to me with a car I had pics of on a forum, they stole my pics for some ebay adds and they watermarked pics of my car claiming it was there work The pics that have been posted here the last 24 hours, very very nice work, all of you. Very humbling to see, I'll just go crawl under the carpet for a while, but thanks guys, I really appreciate it All these new mods are just blowin my socks off!
All these new mods are just blowin my socks off!
Looks very nice Quigs, I've seen this stuff before but never had the chance to use it. I'm sure it will prove real durable. In fact there are some real nice multi colored layered one's for sale on ebay which I was thinking of getting to try them.
Awesome Quigs, I like that little shoulder you put in to hold the battery down against the spring, and the relay contact for switching. Looks simple, hope it works well. Photo 3 is pretty stunning. You must be able to build these things in your sleep now...
I'm going to go for minimum weight and size (18490) for my next one, proly a mech with mosfet switch built from higher grade ply (thinking aircraft grade 2.5mm 5-ply). Open to suggestions too...
Also playing with the idea of designing a tiny and simple circuit board that incorporates a mosfet, a tactile switch and the positive battery terminal all in one, so it would just need a negative wire from the batt, and 2 wires to the 510, mounted where a battery positive terminal in a mod would normally go. Maybe a fuse too, that or a Reo spring.
I'm going to go for minimum weight and size (18490) for my next one, proly a mech with mosfet switch built from higher grade ply (thinking aircraft grade 2.5mm 5-ply). Open to suggestions too...
Also playing with the idea of designing a tiny and simple circuit board that incorporates a mosfet, a tactile switch and the positive battery terminal all in one, so it would just need a negative wire from the batt, and 2 wires to the 510, mounted where a battery positive terminal in a mod would normally go. Maybe a fuse too, that or a Reo spring.
This mod was more about working with a new material than the mod itself, hence it's basic design...
Steve...if you grab some you'll love working with it...it's almost a training material for milling...it doesn't absorb juice, doesn't warp (you could probably run this through the dishwasher)...I spent a fair amount of time getting the door to "just" slide in with a super tight tolerance and it's holding it...it prefers "climb" milling as apposed to standard...and as far as adhesives...it loves gel CA, but 2 part epoxies, not so much.
Ian...the shoulder/relay contact works very well, it doesn't get anymore efficient and easy to work on and I know 99% of my v drop is across the coil...I like things post apocalypse simple (like Turbo's, this will also fire underwater
)...as far as size/weight, I wasn't sure of the structural properties of this stuff (it's tough to tell from a block) so I just kept it simple and beefy (what better than the Woodvil design for that)...I've got large-ish hands so it's a good fit for me, I'm not noticing any flex so my next project will be of much thinner walls, it's weight is about the same as if it were Lexan or Resin...it's pretty light.It's hard to break from this mech switch design, super small form factor and reliable, though I've been kicking around the idea of doing another mosfet mod...one of the things I do like about using a reg. is the ability to use a side mounted flush tact. All my semi-conductor notes are on my home PC and I'm at my cottage...can you save me a search and suggest a mosfet that will push 10A+?...I'll order a couple up from Digikey or whoever...
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I'm out of my league here but these are very commonly used. I believe they go up to 40 amps. IRLB3034PBF
Thanks Gandy...in poking around I've seen guys running dual mosfets in parallel to significantly drop the required power dissipation of each affording a longer life span...if you think about how a mosfet works it makes sense, each one only handles half the current...anybody done this?...reason #48 why I don't do regs. (much)...my DNA30 is always set between 25-30 w...not it's fault but I know I'm red-lining it with zip for overhead...unlike Robert Duvall, I don't like the smell of semiconductor burning in the morning...
I've never done mosfets, never felt the need to because 30 or 40 watts is enough for me really, I've got one woodvil with a 60 watt chip and I never go that high unless on the odd occasion I may be looking to show someone how big of a cloud I can make, but that's not how I normally vape
but, if I couldn't use a chip like an evolv or yihi then I would def do a mosfet over a mech... a few times I thought to build a mosfet with an okr or whatever but never really felt the need enough to actually do it, I never touch even 50 watts in normal vaping and usually average ~ 20 watts per coil give or take a bit, so for me a mosfet built into a chip that does more than just switch on & off makes more sense for me.
if I did build a mosfet though I always wanted to do one with a touch circuit instead of a switch. I wonder if theres a way to use a dna with a touch instead of a switch? any idea what could do that?
but, if I couldn't use a chip like an evolv or yihi then I would def do a mosfet over a mech... a few times I thought to build a mosfet with an okr or whatever but never really felt the need enough to actually do it, I never touch even 50 watts in normal vaping and usually average ~ 20 watts per coil give or take a bit, so for me a mosfet built into a chip that does more than just switch on & off makes more sense for me.
if I did build a mosfet though I always wanted to do one with a touch circuit instead of a switch. I wonder if theres a way to use a dna with a touch instead of a switch? any idea what could do that?
I'm skeptical about a touch sensitive switch to fire a mod. My worry would be unintentional firing. Look at what happened to this wick, coil, and drip-tip on on of my DNA-30 mods when the switch stuck in the fire position:
Note that the DNA has a time-out. I think it's around 25 seconds, which is IMO, way longer than it should be.
Note that the DNA has a time-out. I think it's around 25 seconds, which is IMO, way longer than it should be.
I've only built one mod with a mosfet. I'm new to modding and I only have basic tools. It pales by comparison to the stuff you guys do. I did it so I could use a tact switch in the tiny box that I used. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...how-off-your-mech-homebuilt-mods-only-24.html David84 posted a diagram of a mod using dual mosfets soldered together. I asked why 2 he said it reduces voltage drop. I would imagine that the mosfets would stay cooler and that would probably increase their life expectancy.
I was thinking a touch switch may be less likely to accidentally fire than a button in a pocket but haven't had any touch mods to know for sure, I hate accidental firing and usually try to make my push buttons very stiff to avoid it
IRLB3034PBF is a good rugged choice, you can do a lot of searching and not find better. You can get smaller package mosfets but they are more difficult to work with. The on-resistance will be about 3.5 milli-ohms with a gate voltage of 3.5V, so at 10A you'd get a 0.035V drop and at 20A 0.07V. The power dissipated by the device would be 0.35W at 10A and twice that at 20A, all good. That is worst-case scenario with a low battery, with a fresh battery the resistance will be less. The datasheet says 1.4 milli-ohm typical on-resistance but that is with a gate voltage of 4.5V which we can't get with a single battery. Digikey has them for $3.79.
I ordered 5 of them from an ebay seller in China. It took over 2 weeks to get them but they were $1.11 each.
With all the counterfeit crap being hawked by Chinese sellers (including semiconductors like MOSFETs) I personally would rather pay the extra $2.69 a part and know that I'm getting real ones that actually meet the specs in the datasheet.
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