BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

[custom-classic]

Been kinda dead around here the last couple days.....

Hows the magnet extraction goin', Geo?


I went ahead and ordered a dna 40 from Protovapor this morning. I'll be danged if they didn't already mark it shipped and sent me a tracking #...

Gonna cram it in here:

Man, It's gonna be tight. Can't wait to get started.

 

[Rossum]

Spill the beans: Are you gonna use the on-board fire button, or put a switch where the standard REO button is?

 

[custom-classic]

Ah, Rossum..... Cuttin' right to the chase, I see....

I'm still wrestlin' with that a little. On the one hand, I'd like to have as few wires as possible and just use the on-board button....

On the other hand, I like the thumb switch. It just feels more natural to me. If I were to go with the on-board button, I'd have to tig a plug in the thumb hole and sand it smooth. Simple enough, but then there's the issue of how much I'm gonna have to mill out of the side in order to recess the board as much as possible. I think the fire button makes the board too thick. I think it needs to come off, else it'll be hangin' out the side of the mod...

Short answer,........... I'm not sure. Leaning towards the thumb button pretty heavily at the moment.

 

[2buildawall]

Ok I have a few newbie questions for you pros. I have a ton of meranti mahogany that is 1/2" wide. If I glue a box can I turn the corners in my wood lathe. I would like a slightly rounded edge. Also what are you standard inside dimensions for a squonk box. I would like to get a mosfet, on/off switch, and side mounted firing button in there. I am trying the lathe with some scrap wood but thought I might ask since as CC said it has been dead in here lately.

You said ask away so I am. I figure if you guys are willing to share I need to ask. It could hurt but at my age the skin is getting a little thicker.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Quigsworth]

First of all...how is it you have a lathe and not a router? ...

I don't think I'd do that...lathes can be pretty violent...if you tag an edge with your gouge you risk blowing up your box and all your hard work...I would go with slow and steady and sand...or at least a rasp, it won't take too long.

...oh, for inside dimensions go about 36-38mm wide X 18-19mm deep X 80-85mm high (should be enough room to work with a mosfet)

 

[EagleTa2]

I would laminate the block and rout it to profile the edges. I wouldn't attempt it on my lathe... one false move and your chisel will be thrown hard enough to stick in your ceiling... or something worse.

I haven't had a chance to try and extract the magnets. Besides being a little frightened I spent the day installing RGB color changing LEDs in my sons car. Under the dash on both sides, under the seats facing for and aft and along the top of the rear window shining down onto the rear seat and rear deck. It looks pretty sweet for a teenagers car. Oh, and the light can react to his music and change color.

just have to do one more repair in the AM... its late, cold outside, and I am tired.

take care guys,
Geo

 

[ayopassthat]

Are you all using the bottom feeder bottle attachments from Fat Daddy? It says it comes with 2 needles so that should be enough for 2 mods right?

 

[OthatGuy]

Dude, use the setup from gdeal's bottom feeders it's a fd classic insert, they come in a three pack, and get a vented screw or drill a hole in a screw and sand the head down. Also best if you run a tap thru the nylon insert, thread the insert to fit the screw. I run this setup in all my (stable of) feeders , nine leak, no orings. And it's adjustable . Way better than anything else. ...Imo

 

[custom-classic]

+1

Link to Gdeal's set-up:


https://imgur.com/a/ouV6h


Best set-up going right now.

 

[Ian444]

I ordered a set of 3 of the classic 510 last week, they were quick to ship and the international shipping is very cheap, if you live overseas its definitely a good way to go.

 

[CaptSteve]

Ian get yourself a 6-32nd tap, those vented 6-32nd screws and some brass 6-32nd nuts and it's the best 510BF solution possible. I thought of making my own on the lathe but frankly it's not worth the trouble, these work perfect

EDIT wrote the wrong size sorry Ian (thanks for the correction Aal) post corrected

 

[Aal_]

I think they are 6-32 screws no?

 

[Rossum]

Correct. 6-32. That's a pretty arcane size outside North America, M3.5, would be a good substitute, but that doesn't seem to exist.

 

[asdaq]

I would suggest M3 for substitution, the threading is much finer than #6-32, and does not run as deep. You get more solid material in M3. They appear to come in the vented variety too.

 

[Rossum]

Yep, you can find vented M3 screws, but the vents in 'em tend to be on the small side -- under 1mm. What you want for easy squonking is a vent of 1.5mm or a bit more. Think about how little meat would be left on a threaded M3 when it's vented with a 1.5mm hole in the middle.

 

[2buildawall]

Yes, I have a router but rarely use it. That will change today. Thanks.

 

[asdaq]

About the same meat as the #6-32.

This is showing thread pitch, but you can also get a look at the meaty part too:

With the vented hole as a pilot hole for a 1.5mm bit, it should be pretty easy to drill out. Also the threads themselves help reinforce the thinner wall.

 

[Rossum]

With the vented hole as a pilot hole for a 1.5mm bit, it should be pretty easy to drill out.

You're not the first person to think that.

 

[asdaq]

Thanks gdeal, I had no idea you'd tried metric too.

 

[EagleTa2]

I tried to drill a vented screw that had a .040 vent to .062. My drill bits screamed some expletives and kept breaking... so I left it at .040. It squonks great.

I used a vented 6-32 screw in a FDV V3.. its what I could get locally. A little mod to the brass capture nut and all works great! I have FDV BF pins, but didn't use them. Gdeals plan is much much better!


Thanks!
Geo