After good results building two atomizers for the AGA T2 using an unoxidized wick approach (which seems to fly in the face of much of the conventional wisdom), I decided to experiment with the ZAP which was sitting idle while I was enjoying the AGAs so much. What I did was to toss the plastic insert where the wick goes then I took two of the pre-made wicks and coiled them together and put them into the hole. I even let the wicks touch the bottom of the tank and it works like a dream. It has profoundly transformed the experience and I am now enjoying the ZAP thoroughly. Anyone else had a go at this?
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You completely left the wick unoxidized? Did you even lightly torch it? I am going to be experimenting with minimal oxidation soon and if I could get away with none that would be interesting.
The pre-made wicks by Zen have already been oxidized and juiced, but I haven't yet come across any data other then the videos he's made exactly how he does it. In one of them, he only oxidized the top portion in contact with the coil.
I still have a few pre-made wicks left over, will try that. Thanks for the heads-up.
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"Unoxidised" is a little misleading. The only thing I do is run an ordinary lighter over the wick once it is rolled (don't really want to be smoking essence of skin cells) but my focus is not to get it cherry red or anything like that. After that you can stick it in, wind on your coil and bring the voltage up slowly (if you have a vv mod). Small pulses at first on a low voltage setting. You will quickly identify hot spots and then just tease them out with something (toothpick, blunt needle - whatever you like that works) until you get a steady glow from top to bottom. As the coil starts to function properly you can bring the voltage up to make sure all is working well. The coil contacting the wick will of course actually be oxidizing the wick where it is making contact but not at the high temperatures many people are applying with their butane torches (a big mistake from what I have been reading due to detrimental effects on the ability of the wick to perform well). Once you get a good glow right down the length of the coil, throw in some juice, wet the wick and test it and you are away. I have only been building for a couple of weeks but I have used this method five times with complete success each time. the only time I popped a coil was when I forgot to turn down my voltage before I started and vaporized the coil in a split second. This method really does work and there are more and more people starting to use it.
From what I also understand, and it makes sense to me, there is no need to worry about whether or not the wick is touching the bottom of the tank. When the coil is working the coil is insulated from the wick by the oxidation layer between the wick and the coil so it is really "floating" in terms of the circuit. If there is a short between the wick and the coil it also makes no difference because the coil is already connected to the body of the atty and the fact the wick is touching the body is irrelevant. At least that is how I understand it and in my experience (limited as it may be) it is making absolutely no difference at all if it touches the bottom of the tank.
OK thanks, did not know it had a name but I know it works. Much of what I have picked up was on the UK vapers forum as well as the discussions here. The trick for me I guess was looking at the simplest approaches which seem to come from the most experienced builders and then put the advice to the test. I must have really lucked out and picked the eyes out of the advice first time around. Professor Peter K has my undying gratitude if this minimalist approach was his brainchild. I have two AGAs and a ZAP filled with different flavors that are pumping away beautifully right now and I could not be happier.
Just had a look and Peter K is the drill bit method guy right? I have never tried this, again, I take a more simple approach still: roll a solid wick (nothing in the centre to make a hole), run a lighter under it to burn away dross, stick it in without worrying about tank contact, wrap a coil around (no drill bit pre-coil process), apply voltage (low at first in pulses) and manipulate the coil. This is stuff I picked up around the forums but I don't know if it can be particularly attributed to Peter K.
i posted this to someone yesterday, i use a drill bit and never worried about tank or side contact.
probably the cleanest SSmesh vape i have eve had so far.
probably the cleanest SSmesh vape i have eve had so far.
Are you using a mechanical mod with that?
That would instantly error-out as a direct short on my Provari. I've tried it over and over.
I do 'nothing' with the (SS)wick in terms of prepping. Just roll it & go.
i used to just lightly burn the end for my provari but i bought a cheap non regulated mod just for this, once setup i move it to my provari with no problems when wet.
Okay. I learned quite quickly trying to use a completely unoxidized wick in a Provari simply doesn't work. Just want to save people the frustration of trying it and instantly failing like I did.
lol funny thing is i did it on a proV once took like 3 hours.the pulses were so short to not get an E1 then every 4th pulse waiting 10 seconds so i dont go into the menu. it was right there i said hmm a plastic bolt for 17 bucks looks good, but got a natural instead. so 18 for a torch or 18 for a mod. different yet the same in the end.
(before someone comments no i dont mean the natural is 18 dollars somewhere lol)
(before someone comments no i dont mean the natural is 18 dollars somewhere lol)
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Been down that road, friend. The "fifth pulse enters menu" made it soo frustrating.
Quick question: do you know if that Natural will accept an 18490? Looks like a nice size mod for the diameter of the AGA-T2.
Finally got to the point where I go unoxidized on my EA. Only problem I'm running into is over wicking lately, getting juice in the top screw on my ZAU and gets to gurgling and annoying, I really don't want to add another wrap though but I might have to.
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