Building a bottomfire magnetic closure pipemod (gg/slider etc clonish)

[brerbear]

Well i found abs fittings and caps at friend workplace in their junkbin so iam gonna try and make a sorta slider/goldengreek/venousfoggy clone sorta. And iam thinking of using neomagnets on each side of the battery as a closure mechanism will this work with protected batteries and maybe the kick installed? A plus about not using threads are that in case of venting the bottom will just pop off.

Trigger/switch assembly will be something like this (the drawing is w.rong i realised this today but i havent had time to make a new one)



And a quick question aswell iam thinking about building this quite small around a IMR18350 (efest 800Mah Li-Mn) battery as a stealthvape, So the question is is it safe to charge a IMR18350 in a charger for an 18650 with an insert? My charger is the one that most LT kits come with, the HR-168 its output is 4,2 volts 800 mah. I have read up on Li-Ion cells you can speed charge them with the same current as they are rated for but you have be careful about it, but i have found conflicitng account regarding "IMR/safe chemistry/Li-Mn" batteries.

 

[brerbear]

Heres a sketch on how iam thinking of building the mod

 

[asdaq]

Something about the spring and magnets isn't quite right. The ends are held on by magnets but a spring is pushing them apart? You could do this with just magnets and no spring, switch included.

As for the charger, using a spacer insert is fine, but you need to be sure that the charger stops charging very close to 4.2v so as not to overcharge. Test voltages on LiOns first to make certain. The biggest problem with those batts and that charger is the output mAh of the charger should not surpass the mAh capacity of the battery, and you have these values even. Efest might not be accurate in their mAh rating (AW IMR's are 700 mAh in this size). You would be better served by a charger that outputs 420 or 650 mAh, although if you plan to ever use a 14500, they only have 600 mAh.

Happy building!

 

[Cjax]

Something about the spring and magnets isn't quite right. The ends are held on by magnets but a spring is pushing them apart? You could do this with just magnets and no spring, switch included.

Yeah the point of using magnets is usually so you dont have to use a spring. Typically one or the other. Good luck though and post some pics when you get it running!

 

[asdaq]

Sure, but both drawings have springs.

 

[brerbear]

The spring in the switch assembly is locked inside a plastic cap inside the metal endcap so that when you pres the plunger och the switch it closes the circuit. I am gonna buy som pipefittings tomorrow and try to build the switch so i can post some pics of it. and yes i know i can replace the spring with two more magnets but i have loads of springs in the right size for this switch

 

[brerbear]

This project is on hold since i got snowed in on epipes and woodworking in general right now. And because i don have access to a lathe yet.