Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions

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HOPS

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I've really been wanting a Hana, but they are really freakin expensive and seem to have some issues lately. I discovered this https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10007864/1785704 and am thinking that $90 (with an -authentic- DNA30 and some other bits) sounds a whole lot better than $250 for the same thing. I'm just wondering if anyone has built one yet and what you think of it (pics always appreciated, and drooled over lol)?

I want to get a fatdaddyvapes 510, but curious how it would fit and look? I'm also curious how hard it would be to mod the aluminum box is to make it fit? I only have a cheap hand drill and a dremel. Also, do I only need to wire the pos pin and neg washer to the board, or do you need to "ground" it to the case? One of the posts I was reading mentioned something about a ground wire, but I may have been mis-reading it (I'm not versed in wiring electronics at all).

I was also wondering if the buttons that come with this box are adequate? I'm pretty sure I will be tossing the wire that comes with this and getting some good wire, but are all buttons equal? Will these last, or should I order some from another source? On that same note, are all battery trays equal, or should the included tray be replaced with a keystone?

In reading through some other posts it looks like getting some fuses wouldn't be a bad idea either. Can anyone post a link to the best fuses to use with the Evolv DNA30? Also curious about how to wire the fuses in. Do I just take the + wire from the bat and 1 leg from each fuse and solder them directly together, then the other 2 legs and a length of wire to the boards +batt?

I'm not ready to pull the trigger just yet, but am really close. Once I do I'm sure I'll have a ton more questions, but at this point I just want to get a clear idea of what I'll actually be getting myself into. I've not soldered before, but I have done a little welding and brazing, so I am pretty sure I can handle it. In my head, I have the idea that I'll just get the board, charger, buttons, 510, and batt tray, throw them together and be done and vaping inside of 3 hours, am I delusional?
 

Visus

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retird

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Just receive my FT enclosures that were linked in this thread.....enclosure is fine...... wiring kit is crap.....

510 connector is very poor quality and not a sealed connector.

All included wires are not sized properly for the load (except for wiring the tactile switches), including the wires attached to the battery holder.

Just a heads up.....
 

lot17ss

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Just receive my FT enclosures that were linked in this thread.....enclosure is fine...... wiring kit is crap.....

510 connector is very poor quality and not a sealed connector.

All included wires are not sized properly for the load (except for wiring the tactile switches), including the wires attached to the battery holder.

Just a heads up.....

what gauge do you recommend?
 

lot17ss

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Are the buttons and batt tray any good? Also, on the wiring... There's a closed-ring wire terminal with the kit. I've noticed these are also in the original Hana and the clone and connected to the inner top of the case on the chip side. What is this connection and what should be wired to it?

Its ground
 

HOPS

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Its ground

That's what I thought, and that's where my confusion begins. I thought everything just went from the board to its labeled contact point. What gets wired to the ground, all negative wires? I know it's probably a dumb question, but I've never done any electronics projects like this before. Any chance someone could throw together a quick, idiot-proof wiring diagram for this box?
 

sanjosse

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That's what I thought, and that's where my confusion begins. I thought everything just went from the board to its labeled contact point. What gets wired to the ground, all negative wires? I know it's probably a dumb question, but I've never done any electronics projects like this before. Any chance someone could throw together a quick, idiot-proof wiring diagram for this box?

HOPS, I'm in the same boat, my kit just arrived yesterday.
 

retird

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That's what I thought, and that's where my confusion begins. I thought everything just went from the board to its labeled contact point. What gets wired to the ground, all negative wires? I know it's probably a dumb question, but I've never done any electronics projects like this before. Any chance someone could throw together a quick, idiot-proof wiring diagram for this box?

HOPS, I'm in the same boat, my kit just arrived yesterday.

The pdf linked above has info on wiring...... grounding to the case from the chip was done instead of grounding directly to the 510 connector due to the design of the box.

Here is a tutorial (using a different box but using the DNA) It used a dna20 but you can see how to wire the 30 (if you add fuses they will be different values from those shown for the DNA20.... http://www.howder.com/milo-dna20d.pdf

and you don't need to remove the on-board fire button either...as stated in the tutorial...
 
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retird

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So, the only wire connected to ("grounded" to) the case will be contact #12 the "fire -" from the board?

edit: I apologize for being redundant, and asking such elementary questions. However, I don't want to literally vape my face off or burn the house down. I prefer to sound stupid than to remove all doubt ;)

(pin 1) Negative side of the power output. Connect to atomizer (this usually connects to the shell of the 510 connector but if there is a physical connection between the shell and a metal case the case can become the ground connection point for the atomizer....
 

HOPS

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(pin 1) Negative side of the power output. Connect to atomizer (this usually connects to the shell of the 510 connector but if there is a physical connection between the shell and a metal case the case can become the ground connection point for the atomizer....
Ok, "output -" only... Wow, looking back I can't believe I wrote fire-, honestly I do know that's for the fire switch lol... I was just typing too fast lol.
 

AnsonJames

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(pin 1) Negative side of the power output. Connect to atomizer (this usually connects to the shell of the 510 connector but if there is a physical connection between the shell and a metal case the case can become the ground connection point for the atomizer....

retird,

Is it worth sanding back some of the anodizing to improve conductivity?
 

HOPS

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Is it worth sanding back some of the anodizing to improve conductivity?

I would... Direct metal to metal contact is always best for an electrical connection. If using that as the neg connection for the 510, I'd tap the threads of the case too to make sure that connection is clean too... (I know you directed that to Retird, but I wanted to redeem myself after my last question lol).

Edit: If you find a close up pic of the inside of a legit Hana you can see the connection is sanded clean...
 
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AnsonJames

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I would... Direct metal to metal contact is always best for an electrical connection... (I know you directed that to Retird, but I wanted to redeem myself after my last question lol).

Thank you sir!

I just remember all the issues with the Squape clones and their anodized decks.
 

HOPS

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Thank you sir!

No prob...

image.jpg

lol
 
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