Mike is that the dremel drill press stand? I'm getting a dremel 4000 soon and I was reading mixed reviews about the dremel press. I see you're using it horizontally, how is it treating you as a press?I had a analog Weller station, it was getting old and needed a new element, picked up the Hakko 888 instead and gosh what a difference. Set the temp low for average jobs with a fine chisel tip, then crank it up with a larger tip for some of the odd jobs like soldering a ground to a chassis or a 510 washer, or (de)soldering those nice big fat Lipos. For $90 it was money WELL spent.
Removing the lugs on Lipo takes a little more heat:
It even handled soldering to a SS Chi You bottle-cap:
Also research replacement tip cost when you shop, some brands are very expensive, Hakko tips can be found quite reasonably.
The Hakko is right at home in my workshop....
Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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It is just OK as a press, but has a little bit of play in it. I wouldnt use it to drill ultra precise holes, like through the screw in the GDNA. Since I have a drill press I dont really use the dremel much as a press, but it makes a great poor mans lathe.
I've been looking for an affordable drill press stand for my drill but the good ones are rather expensive. I'm tempted to get the Proxxon MF 70 (micro mill) which can even be upgraded to a small cnc mill. I think it should be good enough for occasional use as a drill press. I would love to be able to mill my own mod boxes. Make something like the triton stick.
I notice in the pics that they used a ton of hot glue, not sure if they understand the idea of how to use it or if they were trying to just encase the board in glueIt also looks like they may have been using the wrong glue for the glue gun or just running it too hot because the glue looked burned in the pictures I have been seeing.
I wasn't sure if it was burnt glue or some type of resin mix. It was all over the place. I managed to get most of the glue out of the black box I received and that seemed to fix the dead screen so I have 2 that work for the most part (awakes by themselves).
I'd recommend the cordless. I have an older 395 corded and newer 800 (10.8v). I hesitated getting a cordless for a while because of the battery technology but as soon as they came out with LiIon packs, I bought one. Now there's better versions but going cordless is SO much more convenient. I like the 8050 micro.
Hmmm so no on the drilling air holes as well I presume. If I wanted to use it horizontal I prefer to get the dremel clamp I dunno if you've seen it. You can use it as a clamp or attach the dremel to it for use as a polisher/sander.
Elev8vape has enclosures in stock. Black, Orange and Silver. I just ordered one of each and they're still in stock.
DNA 30 ENCLOSURES *Read Description* - Elev8 Vape
code: xmas14
DNA 30 ENCLOSURES *Read Description* - Elev8 Vape
code: xmas14
not getting anymore but nice heads up KTM - how many failed boxes are out there! tho some have been in stealth mode eh - lol
I thought the same before I saw them on sale again this afternoon.
Actually, I wanted an orange one and another blue (because the color is really, really nice). It's almost not worth ordering just one so I got one of each color they had. My black one is a bit beat up so hopefully, I'll get one in better condition. Not sure why I got a silver one. I should've just ordered 2 oranges and a black. 2 of 3 worked from my first order so that's not bad for under $20 shipped.
I don't need any more. I promise.
has anyone actually got a schematic for the wiring of the dna 40? I can't find one anywhere. The one on their pdf isn't very clear for simple folks like me.
You know, one of those really badly drawn diagrams with coloured lines and batteries? ;-)
Or even a pic of a wired up dna 40?
You know, one of those really badly drawn diagrams with coloured lines and batteries? ;-)
Or even a pic of a wired up dna 40?
Finally got the Elev8 'returned' enclosure from the 25th order, minus one ding on a corner (obv factory damage as its properly anodized), the thing is flawless. Stickers still intact on the chip tray cover etc.
Popped in a battery, it fired right up, slapped on an atty and it seems to vape/work fine.
Guess i can't complain about having a working $50 mod for $7.50, though ill probably eventually convert it into a second dna40....
Popped in a battery, it fired right up, slapped on an atty and it seems to vape/work fine.
Guess i can't complain about having a working $50 mod for $7.50, though ill probably eventually convert it into a second dna40....
I must have just missed it. Non available when I just checked.
. Thnanks for the heads up though.
I received my box today even though around noon local time it was still scheduled for Monday delivery... meh, for $5 each, it's OK... but mine did not come looking nice or all fully functional.
So... I have taken one apart and now have a housing that I will rubberize... the symptom on this device was 'check atty' all the time... once I got it apart, I could see that the problem was very poor soldering of the OUT+ connection on the board... de-soldered, cleaned and replaced... and it seems to be working as it should
Question: Are these 510's threaded in or just press fit? I would like to remove the 510 before I degrease and rubberize... and would actually like to replace this 510 with something better.
So... I have taken one apart and now have a housing that I will rubberize... the symptom on this device was 'check atty' all the time... once I got it apart, I could see that the problem was very poor soldering of the OUT+ connection on the board... de-soldered, cleaned and replaced... and it seems to be working as it should
Question: Are these 510's threaded in or just press fit? I would like to remove the 510 before I degrease and rubberize... and would actually like to replace this 510 with something better.
I received my box today even though around noon local time it was still scheduled for Monday delivery... meh, for $5 each, it's OK... but mine did not come looking nice or all fully functional.
So... I have taken one apart and now have a housing that I will rubberize... the symptom on this device was 'check atty' all the time... once I got it apart, I could see that the problem was very poor soldering of the OUT+ connection on the board... de-soldered, cleaned and replaced... and it seems to be working as it should
Question: Are these 510's threaded in or just press fit? I would like to remove the 510 before I degrease and rubberize... and would actually like to replace this 510 with something better.
From what I know, the 510 is press fit and really tight. I have to drill to replace with the FDV 510.
I received my box today even though around noon local time it was still scheduled for Monday delivery... meh, for $5 each, it's OK... but mine did not come looking nice or all fully functional.
So... I have taken one apart and now have a housing that I will rubberize... the symptom on this device was 'check atty' all the time... once I got it apart, I could see that the problem was very poor soldering of the OUT+ connection on the board... de-soldered, cleaned and replaced... and it seems to be working as it should
Question: Are these 510's threaded in or just press fit? I would like to remove the 510 before I degrease and rubberize... and would actually like to replace this 510 with something better.
It's press fit. I used a punch and hammer to get it out. I drilled a 1/2" hole in a 2 x 4 and lined up the 510 to push out into it. Becareful not to nick the bottom of the box with the punch. I wrapped my punch with a shop towel. Light taps work better than one big he-man hit.
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