Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions

[KTMRider]

ahh but 18650 in the 1550p ;-)

ere @KTMRider, did you get your chip yet?

It will have a 18650 soon

I haven't bought any chips yet. I think I'll wait for the co-op. Or I might pick one up after the holidays.

Here's a size comparison...

MVP2, Hana mini clone, istick, VS dna 30, VS rDNA 40, Cloupor DNA30

 

[Duffloop]

It will have a 18650 soon
]

lol - are you gonna dump the plastic battery case to fit it?

 

[KTMRider]

lol - are you gonna dump the plastic battery case to fit it?

Yep, no room for the battery sled AND a 18650. I'll probably solder wires to the battery and put a Deans plug on it.

 

[Duffloop]

Yep, no room for the battery sled AND a 18650. I'll probably solder wires to the battery and put a Deans plug on it.

>looks up Deans plug<


ahh sneaky!

 

[tchavei]

Just a little hint. In the rc hobby, dean's plugs were always high spoken of and many of my friends used them but they tend to get wobbly over the course of years depending how much you use them. However, my biggest gripe with them is that they are very hard to separate. If your hands are dirty with juice, oil or even just wet, you will have a bad time disconnecting the battery.

I can't remember what the max rating for BEC connectors was but if up to spec, I would prefer those. Dean's have a rating of 65amps... Way over kill for our purpose.

I used to use twin 2mm gold bullet connectors with plastic grips that were ok for 20 amp continuous or 4mm ones for up to 150 amps. The 2mm would be slim enough to fit the mod without problems

My two cents


Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[KTMRider]

>looks up Deans plug<


ahh sneaky!

I should mention they're Dean's micro plugs. Rated for 15a continuous. I've used them at over 20a and no issues (in R/C cars).

 

[aldenf]

I've never used hot glue on PCBs before. Will the board and solder joints take high temp glue?

 

[tchavei]

I always used these for small applications:

I guess that any quality connector will do.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[KTMRider]

I've never used hot glue on PCBs before. Will the board and solder joints take high temp glue?

Won't be a problem.

I always used these for small applications:

I guess that any quality connector will do.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

Dean's Micro plugs

I've also used these a lot (Anderson Powerpole):

If you use either types, make sure you get the genuine ones. I've heard the Dean's knock-offs aren't very good.

 

[tchavei]

I still have a bag of original deans. The color is darker than the fake ones and the insulation doesn't deform as quickly as the fakes.

Guess it's another of those US / EU things

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[JimmyDB]

ooooh. I gots lots of Anderson's... most are 30amp. I even have a crimper just for them

 

[RebelGolfer72]

I used wires our of phone cables for my dna40 and it's fine...I used larger speaker wore for the power leads...

I used "bell" or "thermostat" wire it's called for the battery/output leads...18g solid copper

 

[KTMRider]

I still have a bag of original deans. The color is darker than the fake ones and the insulation doesn't deform as quickly as the fakes.

Guess it's another of those US / EU things

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

I still have a bunch of Deans Micro from years ago. I also have a bunch of Andersons and some other brand I can't find online but was supposed to be better than the Andersons (they have a flip lock so it can't slide out).

ooooh. I gots lots of Anderson's... most are 30amp. I even have a crimper just for them

You really want to solder the inside connectors. Crimping has more resistance and heat up when you're close to max amps.

I used "bell" or "thermostat" wire it's called for the battery/output leads...18g solid copper

Stranded would be better than solid for electronics. Especially inside these small boxes. I ordered 10' pairs of 24g and 18g AWG silicone wires. Should be more than enough for 8-9 boxes.

 

[MattB101]

I still have a bunch of Deans Micro from years ago. I also have a bunch of Andersons and some other brand I can't find online but was supposed to be better than the Andersons (they have a flip lock so it can't slide out).




You really want to solder the inside connectors. Crimping has more resistance and heat up when you're close to max amps.




Stranded would be better than solid for electronics. Especially inside these small boxes. I ordered 10' pairs of 24g and 18g AWG silicone wires. Should be more than enough for 8-9 boxes.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you order the silicone wire from? I understand it's very flexible.

 

[KTMRider]

If you don't mind me asking, where did you order the silicone wire from? I understand it's very flexible.

I found it on eBay after a google search.

Silicone wire is also heat resistant (the cover) so it's better for high amp draw applications.

 

[Aal_]

If you don't mind me asking, where did you order the silicone wire from? I understand it's very flexible.

Hobby king has turnigy which I think is one of the good ones. You can find plenty in ebay as well. Just lookup silicon and 18 awg for example.

 

[dougward1960]

If you don't mind me asking, where did you order the silicone wire from? I understand it's very flexible.

buddy rc has some very good silicone wire at reasonable prices you can order as many feet as you like

 

[MattB101]

Do you have a link please. Yes I guess I am a little lazy. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk

 

[ozen]

Do you have a link please. Yes I guess I am a little lazy. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk

Here you go Silicone Wires - Accessory but it seems that they're out of red 18awg

 

[JimmyDB]

I still have a bunch of Deans Micro from years ago. I also have a bunch of Andersons and some other brand I can't find online but was supposed to be better than the Andersons (they have a flip lock so it can't slide out).




You really want to solder the inside connectors. Crimping has more resistance and heat up when you're close to max amps.




Stranded would be better than solid for electronics. Especially inside these small boxes. I ordered 10' pairs of 24g and 18g AWG silicone wires. Should be more than enough for 8-9 boxes.

... I do both crimp and solder... crimp with tinned leads and extra solder in place... then heat. That way I know that the crimp is biting in, and the solder adds to conductive surface area as well as general mechanical hold. A 'proper' crimp is decent, but that's been the plague of crimping connections probably since the beginning... not so many use proper tools and make proper crimps. Using the right gauge wire is pretty important with these power poles too... seen a fair number of people not following the guidelines from Anderson in that regard