Bunch of general questions
- Thread starter Turtlesonbeach
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
+1 to everything everybody else is telling you. A mech mod like that his highly dangerous in the hands of somebody who doesn't know what they are doing. Not a problem. I'm a mech modder, as is @Darth Omerta , and any number of other people around here. We'll all be happy to teach you what we can. But for the time being, don't build anything lower than .5 Ohms on a single battery tube mod; don't build anything at all without an ohmmeter; and order some VTC4s from one of the links Mooch put up. I would really suggest you buy a regulated mod; even an iStick 50 would hit harder than what you're holding and do so far more safely. There are any number of choices, so if you're interested, sing out and we'll also try to help you pick a good one within your budget. To get started, read Bad's blogs you have been linked and then come back and ask questions. And please, please, stop cleaning your coils by heating them and running them under water.
Ha ya the dude at my shop laughed in my face at my .... green battery. I will throw that one out but! What is wrong with the red one I believe that one is fine am I right?
Without knowing the resistance, or the actual CDR of the batteries(@Mooch can help you there), we dont know what could go wrong. If you're using a cell with a damaged wrap then it could make contact with the side of the mech and cause injury. If you're using a cell beyond its capacity, it could vent and possibly cause injury. Without knowledge of battery safety and Ohms Law, the user of these devices is using them dangerously. It could be fine, but it could be bad, and finding out the hard way would REALLY suck!
What I think is wrong with that battery is I know it is not a 35 amp battery as it says on the label. At best it will be a 20 amp battery and it might be only 15. As to what could go wrong, it might overheat and vent toxic gasses, or light on fire, or even explode in your hand.
Nobody here can tell you what to do, my friend, and we're not trying to. But look around you and what do you see? Half a dozen complete strangers who have all appeared in 5 minutes, who all have the same message, and who all sound like they're worried sick. Why is this? We're worried sick, that's why. Nothing has happened to you, thanks be to God, but that's luck, not judgement. Please don't push it any farther.
Firstly I have never rebuilt this mod it has always been done by the shop in my town.
To be honest, I dont know. @Mooch and @Baditude are the true battery pros. Im guessing, though, if @Mooch is telling you to toss them as well, then the red one is some sort of rewrap that he has never seen. That means there is no telling what its actual CDR would be, and could therefore be a very dangerous battery based on the builds you're using.
I bought the battery from the shop in my town. Why do you think it is so much worse than it says is it a bad brand?
And why not clean coils by dipping them under water when read hot. Thanks for all the advice guys it's helping a lot thank you I will get new batteries
The red AWT is not a 35A battery. I haven't tested that one but it's most likely a 20A battery, at best. But why use a battery no one knows anything about and can't tell you if it's safe or not?
A pair of VTC4's doesn't cost much and then you would know you have great batteries that you can force as high as 30A. Use the red AWT in a flashlight or other non vape device.
On the wrap it claims to be a 35A battery. There is no such thing. The best available for high amps is 30A, and there are really only 2 that can be trusted as actual 30A batteries, one of which gets really hot in the 20-30A range. I really hope you do read up on battery safety and Ohms Law. Even basic knowledge of these 2 things will tell you that the red battery is a big red stop sign.
I think that because there aren't any 35 amp batteries that size. None. There is one, the LG HB6, that is an honest 30 amp cell. The Sony VTC4 is a 20 amp cell that can be used to 30 amps without dangerous overheating. But not much of anything else. That rating might be a pulse rating. It is not a continuous discharge rating, or it's a lie if it purports to be. It's got too much capacity for it to be a 35 amp battery, too. The LG I mentioned only stores 1500mAh. Storage capacity is the tradeoff for current capacity.
The red battery is not a rewrap I was there when a shipment came in at the shop with about 60 of these new batteries the owner said he had never seen them before this month and he swears by them
Because every single rewrapped battery we've seen has exaggerated their ratings, sometimes by a lot.
And when you can easily buy trusted, tested, batteries made by LG, Sony, or Samsung, there's just no reason (in my opinion) to take a chance on a battery that we know is already not telling us the truth about its performance.
They're rewrappd by AWT before the stores get them.
They may be decent 20A batteries if the store owner swears by them. But, it has been proven over and over that those sort of personal testimonials about battery performance aren't very reliable.
When we say rewrap we mean that it is a rewrap.
Batteries are made in MAJOR facilities under very specific conditions. It costs ALOT to make batteries and most vape upstart companies cant afford to make their own batteries. Instead what they do is go to other companies(you may have heard of Sony, LG, Panasonic and Samsung), who DO make their own batteries, and buy their rejects, either from the "B" bin or "C" bin. They then take those batteries, slap their own wrap on it with their own logo and an inflated rating(almost ALWAYS above 30A) and sell them for a profit.
the red battery is a rewrap!
Two reasons. From a metallurgical standpoint, rapid cooling-- the technical term is "quenching"-- of metals tends to provide great surface hardness at the expense of making the metal brittle, and further forces a non-homogenous internal structure on the wire. That's all fine and dandy for a sword blade or a piece of body armor, but it's not where an electrical conductor wants to be. The other reason is it would be unadvised to accidentally have the coil still charged when it went under the stream of water. This would greatly reduce the resistance and might short the battery.
EDIT: Nothing wrong with heating the coil to clean it, I do it all the time. But heat it up, let it cool in the air, and wipe it with a paper towel.
Ok thank you I totally understand now so you feel the vct4 batteries are the best buy ? I will order a few tmrw
VTC4 best all around IMO. Good amperage and good mAh! Use it as a 20A cell and you will love it! Please do some research though. Listening to us is one thing, KNOWING it for yourself is FAR better in every way!
They're a high quality battery that can handle lots of amps safely. I highly recommend them.
My apologies if we seemed to be ganging up on you. A lot of your fellow ECF members have seen bad things happen and we really don't want any of that to happen to you. Our zeal was just in the interest of your safety.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
