By Leo : Attys, mods, Drip-tips, tanks [CLOSED}

[Billie-cig]

That was very clever. But, someone tell me why/when I need to remove the center post and insulator? I may need to and not even know it.

You need to , if it gets deformed. It usually happens with mods that have very "aggressive" adjustable pins. The ΣΟΦΙΑ will let you know by leaking not more than a drop on the 510 connector or by gurgling (after we have checked all the exterior factors, like mangled o-rings, chipped tank tube, etc.). I believe the new, harder insulators will fix that issue

 

[Zbeast08]

Hello my friends...I had one of those questions looming around in my head and I would seek out an explanation!! I use mech mods and regulated(Provari) about half and half or thereabouts. Correct me if I'm wrong but on a mech mod, the most battery strength you can get is 4.2 volts and whatever the amperage is for that battery so your coils become a much bigger "player" to achieve wattage, correct? With a regulated mod like the Provari, you can start out with a 1.8ohm coil and go beyond 4.2v as long as your battery and mod can handle the amperage/wattage, correct?
I was just trying to get it in my head when I am switching between mods and finally decided to run my lower ohm coils....1.2-1.5 on mech and 2.0 ohm coils on provari. I thought I understood ohms laws but just making sense logically in my head makes me want to think that with a freshly charged battery at 4.2 volts is the most power I can push and then it relies on low ohm coils and double check that my battery can handle the amperage, correct?as much as I love the mech mods and that first hour or so of pure raw power, it drops in voltage!! The regulated mod does maintain same voltage throughout the battery life as I see that to be only advantage, do you?
I will continue to use both but wanted to be sure my reasoning made sense!! Thanks for any input!!
P.S. I may post this in a couple threads to get different feedback!


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[Train2]

Most regulated mods can both "step up" and "step down" the voltage.
I'm not the guy to explain HOW - but your ProVari can provide you with 5 volts, even though it's a 4.2 volt (or less, when it's depleting) battery. It ALSO can "dial it back" - and give you a steady 3.9 volts - whether the battery's fully charged to 4.2, or it's been run down to read just 3.6 - you'll still get 3.9 from it.

So there are really TWO things distinguishing from your mech vape:
"Consistent voltage" and "Flexible voltage"

There are a couple mods (some DNA's) that can't step-down...

Hello my friends...I had one of those questions looming around in my head and I would seek out an explanation!! I use mech mods and regulated(Provari) about half and half or thereabouts. Correct me if I'm wrong but on a mech mod, the most battery strength you can get is 4.2 volts and whatever the amperage is for that battery so your coils become a much bigger "player" to achieve wattage, correct? With a regulated mod like the Provari, you can start out with a 1.8ohm coil and go beyond 4.2v as long as your battery and mod can handle the amperage/wattage, correct?
I was just trying to get it in my head when I am switching between mods and finally decided to run my lower ohm coils....1.2-1.5 on mech and 2.0 ohm coils on provari. I thought I understood ohms laws but just making sense logically in my head makes me want to think that with a freshly charged battery at 4.2 volts is the most power I can push and then it relies on low ohm coils and double check that my battery can handle the amperage, correct?as much as I love the mech mods and that first hour or so of pure raw power, it drops in voltage!! The regulated mod does maintain same voltage throughout the battery life as I see that to be only advantage, do you?
I will continue to use both but wanted to be sure my reasoning made sense!! Thanks for any input!!
P.S. I may post this in a couple threads to get different feedback!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[HBcorpse]

WAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!
[emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]
Getting lots of dry/burnt hits on my Sophia...
And I only have the one coil until my Vapemail gets here...
I'm using the organic Japanese cotton squares, that have taken the Kayfun world by storm...
I am using very little cotton!!! It is comparable to the amount of wick that comes preinstalled in the Sophia. I also wick it the same! One short wick on top, only as wide as the coil...one wick on bottom, who's legs reach the bottom of the gap between the "wings" of the base...
I recreated the wick that came preinstalled.
I recreated the wick that came preinstalled.
I recreated the wick that came preinstalled. Just so we are clear.
The only differences? It's not silica. And it doesn't have the Noalax (grease) on it...which rubbed off the inner threads when I first took the body tube off the base...which is why I re-wicked it to begin with. I know that grease isn't supposed to be there...but that was one of the only things I could list as a difference.

 

[thewomenfolk]

Find two spacer (those normally use to hold electronics board),one male and one female. Screw them together.

Do we just get this spacer at a hardware store and what size do we ask for?

 

[Krisma]

WAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!
[emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]
Getting lots of dry/burnt hits on my Sophia...
And I only have the one coil until my Vapemail gets here...
I'm using the organic Japanese cotton squares, that have taken the Kayfun world by storm...
I am using very little cotton!!! It is comparable to the amount of wick that comes preinstalled in the Sophia. I also wick it the same! One short wick on top, only as wide as the coil...one wick on bottom, who's legs reach the bottom of the gap between the "wings" of the base...
I recreated the wick that came preinstalled.
I recreated the wick that came preinstalled.
I recreated the wick that came preinstalled. Just so we are clear.
The only differences? It's not silica. And it doesn't have the Noalax (grease) on it...which rubbed off the inner threads when I first took the body tube off the base...which is why I re-wicked it to begin with. I know that grease isn't supposed to be there...but that was one of the only things I could list as a difference.

I am no expert but a couple of questions. What ratio PG/VG Eliquid are you having trouble with? What resistance is your coil, what wattage/voltage are you firing it with.

I never had any success with cotton but found it worked better when I did not have a bottom wick and used a single short wick. The other thing is are you giving it a chance to work. If you hit it too hard, you out vape the devices ability to wick.

 

[Susan W.]

I'm using Japanese cotton too and I don't get dry hits. I have my coil on top of the ceramic cup, I don't insert it inside the cutouts. Not sure if this helps or not. I don't think Noalax has any bearing on the dry hits. I cut my cotton about 1/8" wide, insert it into the coil, then cut the ends so it's only about 1/2" to 3/4" long all together. Are you putting liquid on the cotton before filling the tank? Also, it needs to have a vacuum so after filling I unscrew the Sophia and see the bubbles coming out of the holes, that why I know I have it right.

WAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!
[emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]
Getting lots of dry/burnt hits on my Sophia...
And I only have the one coil until my Vapemail gets here...
I'm using the organic Japanese cotton squares, that have taken the Kayfun world by storm...
I am using very little cotton!!! It is comparable to the amount of wick that comes preinstalled in the Sophia. I also wick it the same! One short wick on top, only as wide as the coil...one wick on bottom, who's legs reach the bottom of the gap between the "wings" of the base...
I recreated the wick that came preinstalled.
I recreated the wick that came preinstalled.
I recreated the wick that came preinstalled. Just so we are clear.
The only differences? It's not silica. And it doesn't have the Noalax (grease) on it...which rubbed off the inner threads when I first took the body tube off the base...which is why I re-wicked it to begin with. I know that grease isn't supposed to be there...but that was one of the only things I could list as a difference.

 

[vakaion]

I use vertical coils, my experiences with horizontals plus KGD are limited. But I agree with Susan W, either have the wick above the ceramic so those slots don't compress the cotton... OR... veeeeeeery carefully use a Dremel or equivalent (with safety glasses on etc) and widen the slots on the ceramic cup.

Don't do the latter if you only have a couple of spares, it's easy to break them. :x

Even with my vert coil builds I have the wick tails exit from the top of the cup.

 

[vakaion]

I'm actually going to try some rayon wool as soon as it arrives. How does it compare to japanese cotton for "gunking up"?

 

[HBcorpse]

I am no expert but a couple of questions. What ratio PG/VG Eliquid are you having trouble with? What resistance is your coil, what wattage/voltage are you firing it with.

I never had any success with cotton but found it worked better when I did not have a bottom wick and used a single short wick. The other thing is are you giving it a chance to work. If you hit it too hard, you out vape the devices ability to wick.

I'm using 70PG/30VG. Coil is reading at 1.8ohm straight out of the package, preinstalled in the Sophia. I've only gotten her as high as 3.8v...using a Provari.

I'm waiting on Vapemail from Stormy's Cellar (ready-made wires) so I can try different wicking options. You're right about giving it a chance to work...after so long with Kayfuns, I'm used to lung hits...I forgot I probably need to hit Sophia like a carto...mouth pull, then inhale...hahahaha so this may all be pilot error!

I'm using Japanese cotton too and I don't get dry hits. I have my coil on top of the ceramic cup, I don't insert it inside the cutouts. Not sure if this helps or not. I don't think Noalax has any bearing on the dry hits. I cut my cotton about 1/8" wide, insert it into the coil, then cut the ends so it's only about 1/2" to 3/4" long all together. Are you putting liquid on the cotton before filling the tank? Also, it needs to have a vacuum so after filling I unscrew the Sophia and see the bubbles coming out of the holes, that why I know I have it right.

Well, I'm waiting on more wires, so I can try out different wick methods, so I'll keep this in mind!
I did make sure to open her up first too, and I always saturate my cotton wicks before closing them into any device...that's a Kayfun habit I've picked up.

I have been putting the Sophia base on my device first, making sure she is snug, but not wrenched on. Then I put the body/tank assembly on, all the way down, slide my Cage tank down, and open the body tube back up about 1/4 turn...

I use vertical coils, my experiences with horizontals plus KGD are limited. But I agree with Susan W, either have the wick above the ceramic so those slots don't compress the cotton... OR... veeeeeeery carefully use a Dremel or equivalent (with safety glasses on etc) and widen the slots on the ceramic cup.

Don't do the latter if you only have a couple of spares, it's easy to break them. :x

Even with my vert coil builds I have the wick tails exit from the top of the cup.

I'll be looking into alternative coil builds and wick materials! No Dremel for me! Not that it's a bad thing, but I like to figure out how to make things work, inside the parameters they're naturally imbued with...aka no modding my mods! Hahaha!!!

 

[Billie-cig]

Usually the steps you take if you get dry hits are the following.
Less wicking material.
Shorter tails on your wicking material. You can go as short as the wick being flush with the sides of the CE2 cup.
Higher positioning of the coil inside the cup.You can go as high as the bottom of your coil being flush with the top of the CE2 cup.
Bigger diameter in your coil.
Opening the liquid control more.
If you have problems in a setup even after trying everything, it is better to start over. Sometimes, in any atty, a specific setup just doesn't want to work.

 

[tmcase]

I have been putting the Sophia base on my device first, making sure she is snug, but not wrenched on. Then I put the body/tank assembly on, all the way down, slide my Cage tank down, and open the body tube back up about 1/4 turn...

I also saturate my wick before screwing into the base but once I have my tank filled I open the juice control all the way. Lots of bubbles come out meaning the wick still needed more juice. I would try this then close it down when the bubbles stop.

 

[Billie-cig]

Do we just get this spacer at a hardware store and what size do we ask for?

You can get it in stores that sell computer hardware. I believe this is a motherboard spacer.

 

[tmcase]

Usually the steps you take if you get dry hits are the following.
Less wicking material.
Shorter tails on your wicking material. You can go as short as the wick being flush with the sides of the CE2 cup.
Higher positioning of the coil inside the cup.You can go as high as the bottom of your coil being flush with the top of the CE2 cup.
Bigger diameter in your coil.
Opening the liquid control more.
If you have problems in a setup even after trying everything, it is better to start over. Sometimes, in any atty, a specific setup just doesn't want to work.

This is what I've been doing, shorter tails, larger higher coil, fully open juice control (high vg). My only problem now is consistently getting the right wick density. It's hit n miss but it's easier to remove some wick than to put more in.

 

[Billie-cig]

I also saturate my wick before screwing into the base but once I have my tank filled I open the juice control all the way. Lots of bubbles come out meaning the wick still needed more juice. I would try this then close it down when the bubbles stop.

The bubbles come, not only from the wick that is being saturated, but also from the liquid going through the threading and the inner bottom chamber of the ΣΟΦΙΑ. That helps the pressure in the ΣΟΦΙΑ to remain stable, even as the level of liquid in the tank changes, so you can have a more consistent vaping experience
Of course it helps saturating the wick before hand ( it is not critical though), because it will then "pull" the rising liquid from the tank on the wick.

 

[tmcase]

The bubbles come, not only from the wick that is being saturated, but also from the liquid going through the threading and the inner bottom chamber of the ΣΟΦΙΑ. That helps the pressure in the ΣΟΦΙΑ to remain stable, even as the level of liquid in the tank changes, so you can have a more consistent vaping experience
Of course it helps saturating the wick before hand ( it is not critical though), because it will then "pull" the rising liquid from the tank on the wick.

Hmm, hadn't thought of that. I wish I didn't get so much back wash though. No matter how I set it up or with cotton or rayon I always get back wash within 2 - 3 mls of juice. Other than that it's perfect and I love it.

 

[Billie-cig]

Hmm, hadn't thought of that. I wish I didn't get so much back wash though. No matter how I set it up or with cotton or rayon I always get back wash within 2 - 3 mls of juice. Other than that it's perfect and I love it.

Is it when you are with 2-3 mls left in the tank? Does this happen with all your tanks or with a specific tank?

 

[tmcase]

Is it when you are with 2-3 mls left in the tank? Does this happen with all your tanks or with a specific tank?

It starts turning my juice brown after 2 - 3ml from a full tank and all I've used it with is different Phiniac tanks with the same results. Those are the only carto tanks I have. I don't mind the change in color as much as I don't like the change in flavor. It's just something I have to live with I guess.

 

[thewomenfolk]

You can get it in stores that sell computer hardware. I believe this is a motherboard spacer.

Well if that isn't just interesting. A computer part. Whoda thunkit.

Edit: I think I need to learn to read. He did say it's used to 'hold an electronics board'. I'll bet I've got something in the garage that'd work just as well to push the pin out. Or maybe I could just look in my cosmetic bag.

 

[Billie-cig]

It starts turning my juice brown after 2 - 3ml from a full tank and all I've used it with is different Phiniac tanks with the same results. Those are the only carto tanks I have. I don't mind the change in color as much as I don't like the change in flavor. It's just something I have to live with I guess.

The change in color is normal as the e liquid leaves resins on the coil as it heats up. When you refill, the resins from the prior liquid that is stuck on the wick, merge with the liquid. You can avoid that by changing wick and dry burning.
Some liquids are famous for gunking up the coils more than others.