By Leo : Attys, mods, Drip-tips, tanks [CLOSED}

[qorax]

We are working on a lot of things. We don't have anything definite yet, nor have we released any information about any of our future products. Q just wanted an airier ΣΟΦΙΑ and I said that we are working on a lot of things

Hey folks, my post was just to remind / request Bill that I needed one.

 

[qorax]

Hope you guys like it

 

[Krisma]

Hey folks, my post was just to remind / request Bill that I needed one.

Lol I jumped on the bandwagon. My excuse was it was early in the morning and I had only just had my first cup of tea

 

[Billie-cig]

Hope you guys like it

Awesome review Q! Very detailed and well made! Great work, sir!

 

[Gabiano87]

An airier sophia would actually be my perfect atty. Even with the pace of today's market in e cigs and new atties every other day tye sophia is still in steady rotation and that says alot because I am addicted to buying new vape gear. I have become accustomed to more airlow on the whole but the sophia just has something that no others have. Nice review btw Qorax. The calix is on the radar.

 

[tmcase]

Maybe you want to try this: take a very small/thin tweezer or screwdriver or needle and try to (re)move the wire that sticks between cup and metal to the side and out of its very tight position there. This takes the tension on the cup and it can be removed much more easily. - It also depends on the thickness of the wire, too, but I am sure you know that.

(I don't remove them that often, but then I use very little flavour so I can clean the whole base in one piece, coil minus cotton included, by hot water.)

edit: I am not sure but I tend to think that the flavour one gets out of the Sofia may be profoundly linked to that awfulness of a ceramic cup ... but maybe this is just a myth.

Thanks I'll try that. Last night I got so frustrated with trying to get that cup out that I resorted to pliers and cremated the cup. I didn't care because I knew it was going to be a goner anyway. I even put a drop of VG in the cup post hole before I install it but it's still a to get out. I use pre-made wires and the NR wire is pretty thin so I really don't see why it's so hard to get out but I'll give your way a try. Thanks.

 

[tmcase]

Sorry for that, Pete ... for me, it boils down to wire thickness. Too thick - pain in the ***. Too thin - cup too loose. Just right: Coil and wick about 2 Minutes.

And while we are at it: I found a tiny little tool I don't even know what it is for. I was looking for something else when I saw it and thought of
the Sofia. This tiny something bends the wire into the small opening in the bottom of the cup perfectly. I put Sofia in the picture for size comparison:

View attachment 458420

Nice, now if you could just fine a tool to remove the ceramic cup without breaking it. I'd pay anything for that.

 

[yankeebobo]

I cringe at the thought of all these ceramics breaking. I've broken a few but I attribute that to older or weaker ones only.

Take a small flat head screwdriver. Slip it under the ceramic from the side. Tilt it like you are using a crow bar. Then move to the other side of the pole and repeat. Alternate until the ceramic pops out our is close enough to just grab and remove.
The photo shows the two places I place the screwdriver. I've not broken one unless it was old or defective.

 

[stanleybb50]

Q - great video!


-Sent via Tapatalk

 

[tmcase]

I cringe at the thought of all these ceramics breaking. I've broken a few but I attribute that to older or weaker ones only.

Take a small flat head screwdriver. Slip it under the ceramic from the side. Tilt it like you are using a crow bar. Then move to the other side of the pole and repeat. Alternate until the ceramic pops out our is close enough to just grab and remove.
The photo shows the two places I place the screwdriver. I've not broken one unless it was old or defective.

If I'm understanding you correctly this is how I try to remove the cup and it almost always chips off a piece of the ceramic post.

 

[tmcase]

What would work great would be a pair of long needle nose pliers with bent tips that you could fit under the cup and pull the dang thing out.

 

[yankeebobo]

If I'm understanding you correctly this is how I try to remove the cup and it almost always chips off a piece of the ceramic post.

You are chipping the ceramic because you are going too far on one side before changing to the other side. You should only have to move the ceramic a tad. Maybe 1/2mm at a time that low until it clears the post. Too much starts to stress the ceramic at an angle and Bam, break.

 

[yankeebobo]

What would work great would be a pair of long needle nose pliers with bent tips that you could fit under the cup and pull the dang thing out.

No. The needle nose with force to pull will likely cause similar chips. You could try gently using those bent needle nose to pretty up like I do with screwdriver but no pulling until it clears the post.

The resistance is coming from the post and the wings. Too many contact points to fight at one time

 

[nebulis]

This is what I meant by moving the wire from between the cup and the metal housing. I push the wire to this position with the screwdriver shown in the foto and
it does the tilting job that yankee describes too.

These are the ready-made wires I use (when I could not care less to make them myself):
2,0 Ohm, remove silica and re-wind wire: $3.54 Ready-made Wicks and Wires - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 2.0ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
1,7 Ohm: $3.74 Authentic Kanthal Nichrome Pre-made Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (100-Pack) 100-pack - 0.2mm*95m / 1.7ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[tmcase]

you are going too far on one side before changing to the other side.

When you say "the other side" do you mean the same side of the cup or do you mean you turn the cup around and repeat the process?

I've been prying on the left side of the cup and then on the right side and then turning the cup around and repeating.

 

[tmcase]

This is what I meant by moving the wire from between the cup and the metal housing. I push the wire to this position with the screwdriver shown in the foto and
it does the tilting job that yankee describes too.

View attachment 458436


These are the ready-made wires I use (when I could not care less to make them myself):
2,0 Ohm, remove silica and re-wind wire: $3.54 Ready-made Wicks and Wires - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 2.0ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
1,7 Ohm: $3.74 Authentic Kanthal Nichrome Pre-made Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (100-Pack) 100-pack - 0.2mm*95m / 1.7ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Right. I'm going to try that next time.

I'm using the ready wires that aren't precoiled but they aren't Nichrome but that shouldn't make a difference. I have no idea the size of the NR wire but it is thin.

 

[yankeebobo]

When you say "the other side" do you mean the same side of the cup or do you mean you turn the cup around and repeat the process?

I've been prying on the left side of the cup and then on the right side and then turning the cup around and repeating.

I stay on same side for simple sake. Its alternating sides of the post that matters most.

 

[tmcase]

I stay on same side for simple sake. Its alternating sides of the post that matters most.

So we are doing it the same way only I'm breaking the posts. I try to be gentle about it but I guess not gentle enough.

 

[yankeebobo]

So we are doing it the same way only I'm breaking the posts. I try to be gentle about it but I guess not gentle enough.

Try less movement going up. More gentle. At first I wanted to raise the whole damn ceramic with one lift.

 

[petemoss]

That's how I remove the cup, prying one side and then the other side a little at a time. The best tool would be a tiny gear puller that could pull the cup straight out using a screw. Any wire thicker than 30 gauge will require a lot of force to insert or remove the cup.

A cup chipped on the stem is still usable. In fact a wounded cup is less likely to suffer further damage. It's got more wiggle room lol!