Camel Snus tinbox mod and 18350

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kemuri

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9lfmmp.jpg


A bit rough looking I know but it was mainly to road test the 18350 and use at least one snus tin box I have lying around, plus I have about 6 more Camel snus in the fridge for later use--maybe emptied in about a year going by my snus consumption rate.

All parts for the mod I got at madvapes, except for the atty* and the tin boxes. It's hard to see in the pix but I do have an on-off master switch which I tore out of a AAA box at the bottom of the snus box.

*I tend to use BE112 for HV vaping now. Were this 3.7v, then the 801 carried by MV would do just fine.

I wanted to test a momentary switch with unspecified rating so for a change I soldered a 470 ohm resistor into the pcb.

The use of the Haagen Dazs ice cream bar stick to use as spacers and framework to keep the batts snug and tight is optional of course . Optional, but recommended, as I'm sure it adds an additional 100mAh to the already beefy 1200mAh of the protected 18350 batt due to the magic of Da Dazs! ;)

For those preferring 3.7v vaping, there is enough space to fit a 5 or 6ml bottle to make your own juicebox after one batt is taken out.

People with good fabricating skills might want to cinch a waist in the snus box for an even better ergomatic fit.

The next project will probably be the Altoid chewing gum box mod which will fit two protected CR123A's. You will have to hammer down the floor of the hinged tin can to flatten out the convex bottom.

Funny how one gets so easily spoiled. Tired of having to recharge 14500's which at first seemed miraculous compared to lousy ecig battery units. Now, having to use 2 14500's feels like having to lug around extra inefficient cargo.
 
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kemuri

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Thanks for the comments, guys.

It's very roomy in there, so a pair of 14500's would be possible and even 18500's for some whopping mahs, though at the cost of weight.

Just eyeballing it, about 5 or 6 3ml bottles can fit.

Placing a regular 10 ml bottle (as in a Dekang) in it would mean the cover can be partially shut so it doesn't fall off but it can't be snapped in place tightly with that nice click sound. Unless of course one pounds out the curved top cover a bit, sort of like fender work to fit a slightly oversized tire.
 

Axium

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Looks great. Way better craftsmanship than anything I've attempted.

I started a simple 3.7 Snus tin mod about 2 weeks ago. Got the atty connector and switch in place, then quit when I realized I had to keep the + battery connector insulated from the tin body. It seemed like more work than it was worth given I have 3 or 4 plastic battery boxes at hand. Can you post a picture of the insides without the batteries? I've thought about the best way to make a sturdy insulated bat connector mount, but everything I've come up with seems like more trouble than it's worth. I'm using one of the AA sized batteries so it sorta limits the room around the atty connector and switch.
 
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nyx

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. . . I realized I had to keep the + battery connector insulated from the tin body. It seemed like more work than it was worth given I have 3 or 4 plastic battery boxes at hand. Can you post a picture of the insides without the batteries? I've thought about the best way to make a sturdy insulated bat connector mount, but everything I've come up with seems like more trouble than it's worth.

wanna say i used a layer of hot glue in mine, i'd have to fish it out of the box bin to check though.. i've also just epoxied down some pieces of those plastic boxes when the space allows for it (in a regular Altoids, for instance). whatever you do though, just make sure that the lid will still sit all the way down like it's supposed to. and yeah, it's a tight fit getting 2 14500s in that space, especially if you're going for 5V. i used an 18650, but 3.7V just doesn't seem to do it for anyone but me. ;b

hope that helps.
 
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kemuri

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Schematics so I can reproduce it?


The same wiring as the ones used in most madvape boxes, namely

2a5iwz8.jpg


Were I using the 5A hornstyle button or the 2A pushbutton switch as usual, then I would've taken out the 470 ohm resistor to simplify things.

The inside of this first attempt at Snus is pretty ugly, but it is just a prototype after all. The floor is carpeted (ha!) with glued on paper and the battery terminals are actually on top of globs of JB weld.

That's why the Altoid chewing gum can is shown--the inside has been spray painted making things much easier.

Axium--I did this in steps over 2 days I think, mainly due to waiting for the JB weld to cure.
I first glued the battery terminals to the Haagen Dazs sticks and once that set and I got the positioning of the sticks more or less where I want it, then I glued (JB welded) the sticks onto the floor. Then wait for that to set, after first making sure the stick doesn't fall over by using crumpled bits of paper towel as buffering.

Drilling a hole for the master on-off switch was a bit of eyeballing and luck. All needed holes should be drilled beforehand, of course. Since I'm partial to penstyles, the hole is a tad larger than for other connectors. I had to dremel off a bit of the top cover to make a curved indent so the cover closes without interference.
 
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