Can I burn coils with Variable Wattage?

[onefutui2e]

Hey all,

New to this forum, somewhat less new to vaping. I've upgraded to the iTaste SVD after trying my friend's. Before that I went with an eGo Twist and then the iTaste VV 3.0. I'm still learning a bunch of things and I find it all rather interesting especially given my propensity for tinkering. I've played with clearomizers, cartomizers, and cartotanks. Hopefully in the next month or two I'll start going the rba route. Now that the introductions are done...

I was reading up on VW and just to make sure I understand how it works (W = V^2/R):

Say I set my VW to 12.0W. If I use a clearomizer with 3.0 ohms, my SVD will calculate that it'll need 6V in order to get to 12W and send that amount of volts into the coil. I then switch out to an atomizer with 1.5 ohms. The device will calculate that it needs ~4.2V to achieve 12W and send that amount to the coil.

My question is, wouldn't my coil be burned out in both cases since that's way too much voltage being used? Is there some kind of failsafe with VW that prevents this from happening, or am I misunderstanding how it works?

Thanks!

 

[TheReign]

Yes you can.. too much power

 

[milescadre]

I could be wrong, but all vw does is indeed calculate the correct voltage to achieve the desired wattage for the coil.

So you still should be cautious vaping over 9 watts on most pre made coils (kanger, evod, etc) as it *may* damage the coil.

in all honesty, I've been rocking my protank 3 at 10.5 watts on my mvp and had no issues.

As far as protection goes, the DEVICE should be protected, but the coil may melt or the wick burn. hope that answers your question

http://thevaperstable.com/wp-content/uploads/Safe-Vaping-Power-Chart1.jpg there would be a table on "safe" wattages, perhaps?

 

[onefutui2e]

thanks for the replies!

@milescadre, if that's the case, it seems like it defeats the purpose of VW's "set and forget" feature if I still need to consider that my device will send too many volts to achieve a given wattage. and it seems from the chart that the "safest" wattage to use universally would fall in the 8-9 range.

And yes, I have a Smoktech dual coil 1.5ohm cartomizer and it seems to have no problems even when I push it up to 15W. On the other hand...I have a Smoktech CE2-style 3.0ohm cartomizer that tastes funky if I go past 9W.

Interesting...

 

[Katya]

Hi One and welcome to ECF!

12 watts is way too hot for stock coils. In my experience, 5.5-8 watts is the ideal range for any store-bought atty. They were not designed to handle higher wattages--they can't wick quick enough to cool the coil and prevent it from burning. If, for some reason, you fell you want to vape at 10+ watts range, you'll have to switch to RBAs, because they are designed differently to allow for much faster liquid movement.

If you're using dual coil atties, the math is a bit different, because you are dealing with two coils configured in parallel, so, for example, a 1.8Ω DCC atty consists of two 3.6Ω coils. But that is a different conversation altogether. If you're using stock single coil atties, do not exceed 8.5 watts or so--they can't handle it safely.

 

[Katya]

thanks for the replies!

@milescadre, if that's the case, it seems like it defeats the purpose of VW's "set and forget" feature if I still need to consider that my device will send too many volts to achieve a given wattage. and it seems from the chart that the "safest" wattage to use universally would fall in the 8-9 range.

And yes, I have a Smoktech dual coil 1.5ohm cartomizer and it seems to have no problems even when I push it up to 15W. On the other hand...I have a Smoktech CE2-style 3.0ohm cartomizer that tastes funky if I go past 9W.

Interesting...

If you set your wattage at 6 watts, for instance, your battery will calculate the voltage to go with your atty's resistance--no matter what you screw onto the battery, you'll always be vaping at 6 watts. With the exception of dual coil atties--that's the math is different. Your battery can only read the resistance of the atomizer--it doesn't know that the load is distributed between two coils...

 

[milescadre]

Hi One and welcome to ECF!

12 watts is way too hot for stock coils. In my experience, 5.5-8 watts is the ideal range for any store-bought atty. They were not designed to handle higher wattages--they can't wick quick enough to cool the coil and prevent it from burning. If, for some reason, you fell you want to vape at 10+ watts range, you'll have to switch to RBAs, because they are designed differently to allow for much faster liquid movement.

If you're using dual coil atties, the math is a bit different, because you are dealing with two coils configured in parallel, so, for example, a 1.8Ω DCC atty consists of two 3.6Ω coils. But that is a different conversation altogether. If you're using stock single coil atties, do not exceed 8.5 watts or so--they can't handle it safely.

+1

So 10.5w on a 2.0 ohm dual coil (4 ohms per coil?) would be safe? =)

 

[onefutui2e]

Hi One and welcome to ECF!

12 watts is way too hot for stock coils. In my experience, 5.5-8 watts is the ideal range for any store-bought atty. They were not designed to handle higher wattages--they can't wick quick enough to cool the coil and prevent it from burning. If, for some reason, you fell you want to vape at 10+ watts range, you'll have to switch to RBAs, because they are designed differently to allow for much faster liquid movement.

If you're using dual coil atties, the math is a bit different, because you are dealing with two coils configured in parallel, so, for example, a 1.8Ω DCC atty consists of two 3.6Ω coils. But that is a different conversation altogether. If you're using stock single coil atties, do not exceed 8.5 watts or so--they can't handle it safely.

thanks Katya! So in the case where I'm using 1.5 ohm dual coil cartomizer, what ohms should I be using to calculate the voltage? I know you said that's a whole other conversation, but I got all night. If you can explain it or send me a link I'd greatly appreciate it!

 

[Katya]

+1

So 10.5w on a 2.0 ohm dual coil (4 ohms per coil?) would be safe? =)

It's perfectly fine. If you like that setting, enjoy. All you need to do is calculate your wattage based on a 4Ω coil--not the 2Ω coil. I'd probably dial it down myself, but I'm not a big fan of hot vaping to begin with!

 

[ZeroOhms]

you can't "burn out" a coil. you can certainly pop it by sudden surge of power but this is hard to with APV. also, wicks used for stock heads are made out of silica and it takes extremely high temperature to burn it. when people referring to burn taste, it isn't the wick burning but rather the juice gunk and residue burning. hence, why "dry burning" works.

higher resistance is better for running thinner juice at cooler temperature. if you want to run hot against thicker juice, lower the resistance of atty head instead of cranking the wattage. after all, higher wattage/voltage puts strain on the battery and will shorten the life.

 

[onefutui2e]

It's perfectly fine. If you like that setting, enjoy. All you need to do is calculate your wattage based on a 4Ω coil--not the 2Ω coil. I'd probably dial it down myself, but I'm not a big fan of hot vaping to begin with!

Hmmm, this is the part I don't get, though. Even if it's 4 ohms, at 10.5W it would require ~6.5V to achieve, which wouldn't be possible on the SVD. And it sounds like even if it were capable, that would be very much not recommended? Sorry, I'm just having trouble figuring out how it works...

 

[Thrasher]

10.5 watts on a dual coil is only 5.25 watts per coil, so it shouldnt be hot at all

with dual coils on a regulated mod you have to remember the power is split between both coils. and many times the 15 watt limit gets in the way.
but as stated most store made coils are not made for high power in the first place, so 7.5 watts each may be fine.

 

[Katya]

thanks Katya! So in the case where I'm using 1.5 ohm dual coil cartomizer, what ohms should I be using to calculate the voltage? I know you said that's a whole other conversation, but I got all night. If you can explain it or send me a link I'd greatly appreciate it!

Just calculate your ideal wattage (say 6 watts, to begin with) based on 3 Ohms (the resistance of your coils, not the combined resistance of the atomizer) and you'll be fine. You have a 3Ω coil and you want to vape at 6 watts--you'll need to set your battery at 4.3 volts. Unfortunately, your smart battery won't make correct calculations for your DCC toppers--you'll have to use your voltage mode and do the math yourself. As always, start low and adjust up as necessary. Those dual coils produce a lot of vapor due the increased surface area and you can use them at lower voltages than their single-coil cousins.

Imagine vaping two 3Ω atties at the same time, attached to the same battery. Lots of vapor, but not more heat (power).

Are you familiar with the handy-dandy online calculator? Just plug and play!

Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator

 

[onefutui2e]

thank you very much all, your (extremely) quick responses are much appreciated!

 

[milescadre]

10.5 watts on a dual coil is only 5.25 watts per coil, so it shouldnt be hot at all

with dual coils on a regulated mod you have to remember the power is split between both coils. and many times the 15 watt limit gets in the way.
but as stated most store made coils are not made for high power in the first place, so 7.5 watts each may be fine.

this is where I dont understand the theory as much, if I got 2 coils vaping at 4.5 watts (for simplicity of math, dual coil head vaping at 9 watts), why would I get a warmer vape with more vapor proudction vs say a single coil running at 9w?

 

[Katya]

Hmmm, this is the part I don't get, though. Even if it's 4 ohms, at 10.5W it would require ~6.5V to achieve, which wouldn't be possible on the SVD. And it sounds like even if it were capable, that would be very much not recommended? Sorry, I'm just having trouble figuring out how it works...

Right. Your battery doesn't know that it's dealing with two 4Ω coils--it reads 2Ω (the resistance of your atty) and sets the voltage to 4 volts and change to achieve the 10.5W reading...

That's why with DCCs you have to run your smart battery in the voltage mode and do the math in your head... A lot of folks think they vape at 10 and 12 watts using dual coils because that's what the battery reads--but that's not accurate. The wattage mode works correctly ONLY with single coil atties.

 

[Katya]

In other words, when your battery reads 10.25 watts with a dual coil atty attached to it, cut that reading almost in half--you're vaping at about 5.5 watts or so... Does that make any sense???? I'm not very good at explaining it, am I?

 

[Dougiestyle]

Why the confusion with numbers? Just start at a low setting and work up to your level of satisfaction. Feel free to make note of the setting for whatever liquid you're using in whatever topper you're using if you so choose. Ideally, the beauty of variable devices isn't in the numbers, but in the ability to fine-tune flavor and vapor production. Different toppers will perform differently with a like setting, as well as different liquid flavors and PG/VG ratios will vape different with a like setting.

Remember K.I.S.S

 

[Katya]

KISS is good. When in doubt, start low and adjust up as needed.

 

[onefutui2e]

Hmmm, cool! To summarize:

1. If I'm vaping with a single coil, then the VW reading is accurate, and generally shouldn't be set higher than 8-9 unless I'm using a RBA since those can feed in liquid faster to prevent burning.
2. The VW setting is misleading when vaping dual coils, since it splits the wattage between the two. So if I want to achieve 8W, I need to set my device to 16W to do this.
a. So if I'm setting the wattage/voltage on a 2.0 ohm dual coil, I can use the 4.0 ohm row on the voltage chart. Is that correct?
3. When in doubt, start low and work my way up whether I'm going VV or VW.

Again, thanks a ton for showing the patience to bear with me!